I purchased a brand new OEM pax door handle, ignition battle and glovebox barrel (along with a valet key and 2 x FOBS) Kit last year from LandRover.
I installed them all without too much fuss.
Vehicle starts no issues but I am unable to get the key FOBs to work the remote central locking system. Doors central locking work fine when I use the key in door or push the knobs down inside but the FOB remotes do not open and close doors. Did the syncing method with flashing light key in door etc but no good.
Would be nice to get this system working.
Does this need to be synced at the dealership or is there a tried and true method?
Hair being pulled......

Were the keys ordered to your exact VIN? The fobs are coded to the BeCM so need to be the correct ones. If they are not, it is possible, if you have the correct kit, to reprogram the BeCM with the code that matches the fob, You'd need Marty to do that though and no idea when he will be back with us (he was last seen in Canada).

It might be that the receiver isn't working correctly or you've got 433 MHz fobs and a 315 MHz receiver or some other combination. You can check if the receiver is seeing a signal from the fob by sitting in the car in the dark, wait for the BeCM to go to sleep and the LED next to the gearchange goes out (rather than glowing very dimly) and press a button on your fob. If it wakes the BeCM up (signified by the LED coming back on dimly), then the fob is transmitting, the receiver is receiving but the code is either not synced or wrong.

As Gilbertd says...

If they weren't ordered for your VIN, then the code the fob is transmitting won't match what the BECM is expecting to see, and as such, no matter how much syncing you try will get it to work.

The fob code would need to be read, or decoded from the lockset barcode, and then the BECM reprogrammed to match what the key is transmitting.

I have the ability to do that, but would need a key fob and the BECM logic board.

I'm also looking at a pretty busy first half of next year, so wouldn't be able to do much about it until the middle of 2020 I'm afraid!

Try to sync a fob in the door lock. If you put the key that fits the H&H lock in the door and turn it then press the lock button on the fob from the Linley and try to sync them, if it works you'll know you've got them the wrong way round. You'd need a key from one car and a fob from the other to use them though......

Then it will be a case of swapping them over or dismantling the fobs and swapping the key blades. I suspect the former will result in less chance of buggering up your new fobs.

their is a pin in the fob for the key , the blade is removable, knock out the pin and swap keys over. another option?

I've never managed to get the blade out without splitting the fob casing.

Logically yes, I think that's what Richard was suggesting above. at least then you'll have confirmed the issue. Presumably the dealer cd also have screwed up the vin coding in the first place

JMCLuimni wrote:

Before I switch blades should I not be able to insert the current H&H key in the door of the H&H and use the Linley FOB (which could be the FOB that was meant for the H&H) to sync the locks?
With all that being said, does anyone have the definitive method of syncing key FOB to central locking? I’ve searched online and there are many ways suggested...... anyone have the balls on, money back sure to work method?

Yes, that's what I was getting at above. Put the H&H key in the H&H door lock and turn to lock, hold there, while holding press and hold the lock button on the Linley fob until the light starts to flash faster, release the fob button and turn the key back to centre. Then turn the key to unlock and hold there, press the unlock button on the Linley fob and hold until the light flashes faster, release the button on the fob, then turn the key back to centre. Remove key from the door lock and try pressing a button on the Linley fob. If the fob is correctly coded to the BeCM and the sync has worked then the fob should operate the central locking.

You can then prove you got them the wrong way round by doing the same with the Linley key and H&H fob in the Linley door. If you haven't tried this method (which is the method I was shown in confidence by the Service Manager at my LR main dealer as this is what they normally do and then charge people the coding fee), then try it first without swapping the locks/fobs in case you got them correct and just haven't used the correct sync method.

Rather than risk damaging the fobs, I'd swap the locks over if it were me...

If you confirm the locks are on the wrong vehicles, swapping them over to make it correct is surely the way to go... considering the time and effort put into making these examples so tidy? To screw the locksets up makes no sense to me with these.

Ok.
Sat in both vehicles separately and Did the BECM responding to FOBs tests on both sets. Both vehicles awaken to both FOBs.
Tried the syncing method recommended by GilbertD and no luck. Not on either car with any combination of keys and FOBs.
I checked receipts for key sets and they were ordered by VIN.....
At a loss. It’s the only system not working on The Linley are driving me up the wall and sideways.

When you put the key into the ignition barrel on either vehicle but do not turn it, does the light on the fob start flashing in any combination of key and vehicle?

@Sloth...
Just tried this and neither FOB lights up when I insert key in either ignition....

have you tried turning the key that fits the lock and push the buttons on the other at the same time to sinc up fob or dose the fob need to be in contact with the car

The fob will only light up in the ignition if passive immobilisation is enabled in the BeCM. This is to stop the unlock button needing to be pressed if the car was unlocked but the engine not started within a minute. The coil around the ignition lock causes the fob to transmit and unlock code automatically. If Immobilisation has been disabled in the BeCM, then the fob won't be caused to transmit as it doesn't need it to.

However, I have come across a couple of cars where the fobs won't sync in the door lock if passive immobilisation has been turned off. Assuming you have a Nanocom, go into the BeCM settings and turn immobilisation to enabled and then try to sync again. Once synced you can turn it back off if you want.

If you do find they are the wrong way round, if also swap the locks over - as the lockset consists of both the physical lock and key blade AND the remote fob.

Swapping the key blades over will then give you the correct remote fob with the incorrect lock/key blade, which is then a mish mash of locksets. And as sloth says... Seems silly to have spent so much other time and effort to get these vehicles as good as they are, to then half arse the locksets.

It could be worth trying to turn passive immobilisation on and resync then. If that still doesn't work, then probably more in depth investigation would be needed...

Nanocom readings Imonolizer
Imobilizer
Disabled
Lazy Locking
DMH key only
1 touch
Front
Key Warning
Enabled
EKA
Disabled

Are these correct settings? Nothing has worked for this whole FOB central locking sync...

Change Immobiliser to Enabled. Once you've done that you should find that the LED on the fob lights when you put the key in the ignition.

You should then be able to sync a fob (no telling which one though) in the door latch using the method above.

The Immobiliser setting turns on or off passive immobilisation. What this means is that if you unlock the car but don't start the engine within a preset time (I think it's one minute) it will immobilise it again meaning you would have to press unlock again before you can start the car. The theory is that the coil around the ignition lock barrel causes the fob to transmit the unlock code meaning you wouldn't notice it. However, the coil is very fragile and breaks easily meaning you would have to press unlock every time you want to start the car if you don't start it as soon as you unlock it.

If you can successfully sync a fob, then you can change the Immobiliser setting back to Disabled.

Hi
Tried all that and no luck...
Talk about a pain in the hole....
Like having a tiny pebble in your shoe. Shouldn’t bother you but when it does it may as well be a show full of broken glass...

I'm wondering if they've ordered the locksets on the VIN from a 'will it physically fit' viewpoint rather than a coding viewpoint. Sounds like your only option now is to get Marty to do a bit of programming magic.

Is it worth changing EKA to enabled too? Clutching at straws, as it should have nothing to do with fob sync, and yet, who knows... maybe the extra validation (from an EKA) gets the BECM to a happy place