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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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My first post here. I've just acquired a pre production P38 and someone has cut off the EAS pipes as they go into the valve block, a spring conversion that has then been partially returned to normal. There are new airbags on the corners and I wondered if anyone had suggestions as to the best route forward. There is a secondhand set of pipes on ebay. As part of the restoration would it be best to replace all seals in the valve block and pump and will I need a full diagnostic setup?
Many thanks,
David

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You can replace the entire pipes or cut back and extend the existing ones. If you extend, then you'll need to put joins in. Do not use the ones you can pick up from near enough everywhere with the blue plastic ferrules, they will leak. You either need to get the genuine LR ones but they are around a tenner each. I tried some of these (as my partner works at RS Components and gets 20% discount) https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pneumatic-straight-tube-to-tube-adaptors/0812106/ on mine where the pipes had been trimmed so many times that they were getting too short. Rated at twice the maximum pressure the EAS works at and not one single leak. A few of those and a couple of metres of 6mm pipe will get you sorted.

Get yourself a valve block rebuild kit (with the black O rings, not the orange ones) and an EAS cable and the free RSW software and you will be sorted as far as EAS is concerned.

Welcome to the forum, it was me that sent you the PM on the other side but I can't use this username over there, it was banned for life! Where in the country are you? There may be someone nearby who can give you a hand.

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Richard, those little Legris fittings you found at RS... did you go the next step and put a T in the line from the EAS compressor to the block? Just curious..I wouldn't go the whole hog and put T's on all corners, but quite like the idea of being able to bypass a non-functioning pump

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No, but Ideally you'd need to go into the 8mm pipe to the air dryer (between port 7 on the valve block and the dryer). A Tee there with a Schrader valve on it would allow you to fill the reservoir from a tyre pump instead of the compressor (or even run the whole system from the tyre pump if you powered it from the compressor feed). Although having filled the reservoir from a tyre pump, it takes bloody ages, as they don't shift anything like as much air!

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tnx, I'll take a look

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Wade pneumatic brass fittings also work very well. The type that has a spigot that the pipe goes over and ferrules that tighten down over the pipe.
I put my Tee in the 6mm line to the tank and I fitted a gauge and shrader valve at the front. I also carry a 12v heavy duty air compressor around that cost me about 100 quid ! With a foot pump you would be there all day.
I have a bench valve block tester if anyone is interested. No charge. I live near Chester.

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Thanks Dave, I'll have a look at the Wade range too