So my adventure of the bodge it project continues.

Got a lovely kicker lent to reset the hard faults. Lovely.

Rebuilt compressor even though it clicks a bit when it runs. It works in a fashion.

However bought the cable and free software to see what the very strange actions are all about.

And if found more bodges I think.

So firstly the faults being listed are as follows

the heights are all over the place. They never sit still.

I know there is a slight leak on the rear bags but even in access mode it leans to the right heavily

Upon inspection of removing the compressor to see if I have missed anything on the compressor I find this.

Looks like someone has wired a bridge in.

Not sure what the pin does etc

any guesses the from lads down the pub

On a lighter note me and my apprentice fitted new bonnet cables and refitted more interior trim.

She is coming along nicely haha, even though her mum wants her to be a bit more girly

The black wire is a ground, does the other end make it's way to the connection to the Orange wire on the compressor? I suspect it probably does in which case the thermal cut out on the compressor may well have failed. There's a thermal switch in the back of the compressor motor which is normally grounded but goes open circuit if the compressor gets too hot. It should go short circuit again once it cools down and the ECU then allows the compressor to run again. However, sometimes they got open circuit and stay that way so the compressor will never be ordered to run. By grounding the Orange wire the ECU thinks the thermal switch is short circuit so orders the compressor to run. It may be that the switch has failed or the compressor was getting very hot and kept cutting out and someone decided to bypass the thermal switch so it ran no matter how hot it got.

The screenful of faults means that you don't have a proper connection. On the top left of the screen you should have a green box with Good Idle shown in it. If that is red and no Good Idle shown, any faults read will be complete garbage.

By the way, your car is the wrong colour for the grille........

Ha thanks rich. I'm colour blind. Don't be mean. I genuinely didn't know it was blue. It wasn't listed as that on ebay. I just thought it was mucky til I wiped it and it didn't match haha

That would make sense with the thermal cut out. Can that would be replaced or is it new compressor job

If I break the bridge off and it doesn't run. I guess that will prove a point.

Il try again with the fault codes then. But certainly need to look at the thermal cut out.

It can be replaced but it is inside the back of the compressor motor, between the brushes and is a real pain to change. I've seen one where someone has drilled and tapped the back plate on the motor and bolted it on the outside, seemed to work OK.

No doubt you will repaint the truck to match the grille :)

No doubt I will end up doing something. I like lights so, Im sure I can one day put some thing in front of the Blue to hide it.

The bridge wire looks to go from the black (ground) to black and pink, again im sorry if that's not correct.

Iv cut the link off and insulated the pigeon dropping looking solder and will put another compressor in when it arrives and perhaps start again

The Black/Pink wire connects to the Orange at the compressor, so it was shorting out the thermal switch. Replacement compressor is the way to go, even if you have to swap the new piston seal.

It has been a while but the project has finally had a bot more attention. Over the weekend, the girl has had new air springs all round. Bearmach front shocks and steering damper and OME shocks on the rear.

She still sits low on the drivers side front and rear, so i will be plugging the laptop in this weekend hopefully and levelling it out

IS there any set factory heights from wheel centre to wheel arch. I have read the figures in the software wont necessarily be even across all the corners etc.

The 25 year old air springs where a nightmare to get out but enjoyed getting them all done and swapped out

Next will be discs and pads i think along with some new HT leads, parts i have accumulated over time whilst still busy working and not having any time to play

Make yourself a set of blocks from 30mm Nylon, Delrin or even wooden dowel, https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/eas-calibration-blocks.73321/

Running a machine shop I can make a few sets.

Are they best out of nylon rather than something like stainless.

No need to be metal, Nylon is fine. On my Access Height blocks, I've drilled and tapped an M6 hole in one end, makes pulling them out of the bumpstop a lot easier.

Thanks for that.

I assume drop the blocks in the 4 bump stops, drop the girl down tile she sits on the stops. Then do i just re measure the figures and set them on the calibration page... im guessing something along them lines