You can swap just the viscous coupling - you don't have to do the fan and coupling together. As long as the fan looks ok that is!
You can swap just the viscous coupling - you don't have to do the fan and coupling together. As long as the fan looks ok that is!
Sloth wrote:
Definitely counts as oily now:
Not entirely sure whether it is the gearbox cooler leaking, or a leak from the bottom of the oil cooler yet. This probably explains the fan running excessively.
And now...
Oddly satisfying cleaning it all up. I've left the A/C condenser off now to drive it a bit and hopefully see where this leak is coming from, keeping an eye on things.
Bonus pic of my other other car... this little 323F V6 is the most reliable car I've had and know... unfortunately, its a Mazda. So most of it has now been swept up and is in the bin. One problem P38s don't have at least!
I had one of those, like driving a go cart on rails, how I never got done for reckless or just being a lunatic in it I don’t know, head gasket went, I took one look at the space around the engine, another at the size of my hands and promptly stuck it on eBay 😂🤣
Be wary when messing around the fan, mine "disintegrated" and left me with quite a mess ...
Hi Sloth,
Just for information.
What is the current draw of the Volvo fan, do you have any idea.
I have a BMW 400W fan & was thinking of fitting it. But the my diesel P38 alternator 's max capacity is 105A and could create problems in a rainy night. Also, what are the fan thermostat open/close temperatures?