My hevac book symbol is on and after testing everything the passengers side is cols only so I'm assuming that's motor near passengers airbag do it got me wondering can it be done without removing dash and just the airbag?
My hevac book symbol is on and after testing everything the passengers side is cols only so I'm assuming that's motor near passengers airbag do it got me wondering can it be done without removing dash and just the airbag?
Drop the glovebox out, either bend the ducting or cut it and put it back with duct tape, and you can drop it out without going any further. Sometimes they can be fixed with a squirt of contact cleaner in the feedback pot and working it back and forth. When putting it back together make sure the arrows on the cogs line up.
Feedback pot? And you mean just glovebox, leave airbag alone ??
Yes, leave the airbag, just the drop the glovebox. Feedback pot is inside the blend motor and tells the HEVAC what position the motor is at. I assumed you were going to take it to bits and see if it can be mended
I ordered another working motor of eBay its not arrived yet but I was gonna swap them out then I could look at 1 removed see if it could be salvaged as backuo
Replacement motor turned up today and tested on battery works both ways, slow and steady lol
The feedback pot in replacement blend motor is empty, should it be?
How many wires does it have, 2 or 5? If it has only two, then it is a recirculate motor not a blend motor.
1 on car I cut had 5 1 I bought has 2
Odd thing though is apply power to motor it works as does the flap so not sure why it want working
It will, but a recirculate motor has no feedback so the HEVAC doesn't know what position it's in so won't try to drive it. You need a 5 wire blend motor, not recirculate motor.
The blend motors also need calibrating don't forget. You will need diagnostics to do it.
and even then they won't be spot on. I have to set the RH side 1 degree higher than the LH side to get air at the same temperature out of both sides.
I didn't know it needed calibrating, I've managed to repair old ones cables and its motor still works I will put it back in place and rewire cables into cars wiring but I think closest nanocom is 90 ish miles away
If you are fitting the same one back it won't need calibrating and if you've given the feedback pot a good squirt of contact cleaner you may find it will now work. If it doesn't you need to replace it with a blend motor, the 5 wire version.
I'm feeling stupid because I can't see any pot in it lol, and it all looked good inside and moved freely, connect battery to motor it works in both directions and flaps are not stuck at all
Potentiometer I just got it lol oooops lol
When working correctly, the HEVAC drives the motor whichever way it needs to go to increase or decrease the temperature. However, it relies on getting feedback from the pot so it knows what position it is in. If it doesn't see a signal from the feedback pot, it logs the error and doesn't try to move it again. When you first turn the ignition on, it drives all 3 blend motors from one end of their travel to the other. If it doesn't see full movement, or any at all from any of the 3, it won't try to use that one again and will turn the book symbol on.
Ahh right because I never hear it doing anything when its turned on
It's very quiet and you probably don't notice it over the sound of the ABS and EAS pumps.