Hi guys, hope you can help. My 2000 4.0 vogue has started to be a pain. Intermittently it will lose synch with fob and so lockout engine. The car battery is new and showing at 12.3 V. When it eventually takes the key code then it will start and be fine for a few days. But entering the key code is hit and miss, so I’m suspecting the outstation. Especially as I get odd locking issues when using the windows and when driving along. I’m sure you’ve been through this prob before and apologies for not having the time to search the forum, I just thought I’d ask for help. Cheers Gary
You need a new drivers door latch if it is locking and unlocking itself while driving. I take it you are locking and unlocking with the key and not the fob?
Just today rimmerbros sent an email that the have discount on MGF and MG TF parts. Some of them share the same door locks with our cars and You can get a real good door lock with microswitches on a budget.
Maybe someone can help with the right part numbers for LHD / RHD. I can not look into my files, where I am now. I bought a spare door lock for my P38 during the last discount time for a ridiculous low price.
Good luck.
Another point where I had strange phenomena was a loose earth connection at a battery, because a stupid mechanic has not really tightened it ... guess my facial expression when I took of the battery cover and attached a Volt meter and the doors locked ;-) because I twiggled with the probes at the battery ...
The MG TF latches are the same as the mid production P38. Early ones have a socket on the latch itself so the loom plugs straight into it, then you have the later ones from sometime in 96 where there is a flying lead with two plugs, an 8 way and a 2 way (with only one way used) and 2001 and later which have one larger connector. The MG ones have the two connectors on flying leads. So a LH latch from an MG will fit the drivers side on a LHD P38. No good for a RHD though as the LHD passenger latch only has 1 microswitch and not the 3 needed of a P38. A LH one from a LHD car is mirror image so you can't even swap the switches over.
Thanks for the replies. When the car is running the fob works fine and all locks are ok. They seem to lock when I either hit a bump or use the drivers window. Today the fob was useless again with engine locked out, but it took the manual key unlocking code straight away and then fob worked ok too. Car battery was still fully charged.
Has anyone coded the immob out of the becm? I’m lead to believe that auto logic has this capability, but I don’t know if I’d lose the fob locking at the same time.
Cheers Gary
No, it can't be done. Auto Logic may be able to turn off what is under the heading 'Immobiliser' in The BeCM, just the same as a Nanocom, Faultmate and various other dedicated diagnostics can but all that does is turn off passive immobilisation not the immobiliser.
Have you had the door panel off to see if the wiring to the door latch is chaffed or is being caught (and grounded) by the window mechanism?
Thank you, I did have my doubts. Will strip door as soon as poss and check out the wiring and see what I can find. Car was fine yesterday, so it will be interesting to see if the beast fires up today or if the becm and fob have fallen out again! Last week they fell out in the Sainsbury’s car park. Drove there fine, fob locked it and went in for 15 mins, came out and nothing. Even the manual unlocking code wouldn’t work. Got recovered and left her for a few days and then re entered door code and all was ok for a few days then it happened again. Hoe fully I’ll find a chafed wire or something. Will let you know.
Thanks again.
Gary