I'm also going to replace my rad at the same time as I swap the engine (when it's built and being swapped)!
Out of interest... what size bolts have you used for bolting the engine to the stand? I need to order some for when the block etc arrives.
There 5/16 bsw, depending on what stand you got, the 2 bolts at bottom of your bellhousing can be used, I then got some slightly smaller where I could bolt through the engine, worked like a dream
5/16 for sure but I grabbed them out of a bucket full of old bolts, they might have come from the Classics I've owned.
Ferryman wrote:
5/16 for sure but I grabbed them out of a bucket full of old bolts, they might have come from the Classics I've owned.
You was lucky to have them, I ended up going down the breakers and grabbing a few more.. trying to find somewhere local that sold bsw was a joke,, most just gave me a blank look, they obviously have never heard of whitworth, lol
Hmmmmm
Ok, interesting... I had a look online last night and someone was saying Rover V8 bellhousing bolts were 3/8UNC...
I think I'll have to go through my pile of bolts and see if I have one that fits (as I have a spare block sitting in the garage that will be sent away for top-hatting at some point!) and then get some to match which are a bit longer...
The stand I have will line up with 4 of the bell housing bolt holes - I don't know quite what I was expecting, but though that it would need something a bit more substantial than 4 little bolts like that to hand the whole engine off!!
Going to give V8 Dev a call in the next couple of days to see what the progress of the engine is... They said it would be a couple of weeks - and I've been away for 3 weeks working and not heard anything. I did say it wasn't completely urgent as I am away a lot - that and I am still gathering all the rest of the parts together to build the rest of the engine!
Bellhousing bolts are 3/8UNC according to Microcat.
Gilbertd wrote:
Bellhousing bolts are 3/8UNC according to Microcat.
Thanks for that... I probably have a few 3/8UNC lying around from other engine parts I've dismantled - but again, don't think they'll be long enough, so will do a measure up a bit later and will have to order some and some big washers to bolt it to the stand nice and snug.
From the spacers of the enginestand's arms I have cut off about 4 cm to have the bolts being long enough, I had to remove the flywheel anyway so I did not care about distance.
And 3/8 you are right Richard (again), I just measured it and it's 9.5mm. But then again I have this 'approximate' vernier...
Here's my homemade crankstand, two blocks of wood so it can spin freely. Cleaning the crank with a piece of Scotchbrite and ATF to remove old oiltraces. The oilchannels are cleaned with carburettercleaner and a blow of compressed air. Waiting for the block to come back!
Doesn't it fit in the dishwasher?
Send her out to the cinema ............ long enough for the dishwasher programme to run.
Got a call from the shop the block is ready to pick up so I drove up there. Here she is, waiting on the trolley. Ah there he comes with one of the heads just finished skimming and washing.
The guy started his business only a year ago with a friend, here's an overview of his modest shop.
Gilbert wanted more porn from Marty's thread, here is a view from under the skirt. (I wanted to know how the base of the liners were done)
Back on my own bench, tomorrow time for the crank to go in.
It looks like the brim of the liner is a bit smaller than I saw on Marty's engine, at least there seems to be more space between the liners on the deck.
I asked him what to use as assembly lubricant and he showed me this bottle. "You may have it, put it in your pocket". Just an idea how the guy works.
I love seeing pictures of other people's rebuilds aswell... especially good quality resolution pictures like yours... I expect to be able to vie many more of your engine build too...
I bought engine assembly lube - Torco MPZ is the stuff I have, but the Piper cam came with some aswell for it - which I will be using a load more on the lobes as the tappets go in!
The top hat on your liners do seem to be a bit smaller than mine - it must just be the manufacturer of them I guess! But either way, the lip on them will stop them from shifting anywhere!
I wish my workshop was as nice as the one of the machine shop that you had the block/heads done at... looks well kitted out, and spacious!
The next one I do, I'm planning on doing the crank fitting etc all myself aswell... Didn't have the time to do it on this one - and it was far easier to get the short engine all complete!
Looking forward to seeing your engine rebuild pics and hearing your experiences with various stages of it too!
Marty
A question about torquesettings, how much drag may the crank have when new bearings are installed? I installed the crank today, after liberally lubing everything with the stuff shown above, torqueing it all by the book (72 Nm capbolts, 92 Nm rear end capbolts and 45 Nm cap sidebolts) I can not turn the crank anymore, At least not by hand. When I torque the capbolts to 60 Nm and rear cap to 70 Nm I can barely spin the crank by pushing firmly the balanceweights.
Is my T-wrench not giving the right torque (a 60 euro's micrometer-style wrench), can I do with a lesser value? How much drag is allowed?
It could just be stiction from the assembly lube Ferry. As far as I know there are no published figures for turning torque of a bare crank. It's unlikely that, even if overtorqued, the caps would deform. More likely that the bolts would over stretch.
Did you have the main bearing housings line bored when the block was machined?
I usually pre-assemble the crank and conrods on the bench using the new bearings, light oil, torque the old bolts/ studs and plastigauge all the big ends to ensure correct running clearances. Then repeat the process with the bare crank (without the con rods!) in the block, again plastigauging all of the new main bearings. After plastigauging, put bare crank back into block with light oil and old bolts and it should turn easily by hand.
Only then do I put the crank back in with assembly lube and new bolts.
If you're not confident that your torque wrench is accurate, why not pop down to your machine shop and get it checked against one of their (hopefully very accurate) torque wrenches? I have a "master" digital torque wrench of known good calibration (like Marty's in his build porn pictures) which I use to calibrate and set my "clicky" wrenches, just because I prefer working with clicky wrenches.
If after checking everything as above you have bearing clearance problems or when assembled with light oil still can't turn crank, pop it (assembled) back to your machinists and get a second opinion from them.
Link to Plastigauge:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastigauge-precision-bearing-clearance-Gauge-Auto-Motorcycle-engines-kit-car-/300895468211?
EDIT- you could, in addition, check with Engineers Blue to see if you have any ovality of the journals, but that's highly unlikely if you've had the crank machined.
EDIT Again- just read back through your build and you didn't have crank machined. Are you sure it's straight? Mount it in the block using just the outer caps and check with a dial gauge on all the other main journals.
Many many years ago, I was rebuilding an engine and had this problem. As I recall it was because the crank was out of true .......... I not only had to have the crank reground but it also fukked the new big end bearings too by trying to turn it.
Thank yo OB and OS for your replies. As I'm not familiar with the plastigauge thing and don't own a micrometer to check for straightnes I called the guy of the shop. He told me the same things as you did OB but hey I wanted to do it myself and didn't hand him over my crank. But, he said, turn them all loose and tighten to 5 Nm., give the crank on both ends a good smack with a nylon hammer and retorque to specs in 3 stages, which I did (and borrowed a better quality T-wrench). Presto, when finished I can turn it by hand.
His norm for drag is put the torquewrench horizontally on the pulleybolt and is has to lower by it's own weight. Which it does. Thanks guys.
Fitting pistons. From the text in the manual it is still not clear to me where to position the ring gaps, "position compressionrings with gaps on opposite side of pistion between gudgeon pin and RH side of piston- viewed from front of piston". This should mean that one gap comes on the LH side of piston?
As for the cam gear I use the old camsprocket again wit a new chain (I know I know, should not mix old with new) for the following reason: half a year ago I bought a new set of sprockets and chain so I thought I gould use it again with the new cam. Bought a new thrustwasher (only original LR available) and measured the axial play of the cam with the 'new' sprocket with my feelergauge, it was 0.5 mm which is too much. With the old sprocket I measured 0.25 mm so the old sprocket it's gonna be, even the chain is not sloppy with it.
The thrust side (both banks) is the starter motor side of the engine.
I usually just space the rings at 120 degree (ie equal) spacings. The rings are free to rotate when the engine runs anyway, but starting out with no gaps overlapping is good practice.
As for the end-float on cam, what was the clearance with the old thrust plate and new gears/ chain? As you say, with these inverted tooth chains it's best to use new chain and gears together as, a bit like those old Variomatic transmissions, the chain rises on the teeth under centrifugal force to take out slack without affecting timing. Hooked or worn teeth or chain will affect that.
Ferryman wrote:
Fitting pistons. From the text in the manual it is still not clear to me where to position the ring gaps, "position compressionrings with gaps on opposite side of pistion between gudgeon pin and RH side of piston- viewed from front of piston". This should mean that one gap comes on the LH side of piston?>
As for the cam gear I use the old camsprocket again wit a new chain (I know I know, should not mix old with new) for the following reason: half a year ago I bought a new set of sprockets and chain so I thought I gould use it again with the new cam. Bought a new thrustwasher (only original LR available) and measured the axial play of the cam with the 'new' sprocket with my feelergauge, it was 0.5 mm which is too much. With the old sprocket I measured 0.25 mm so the old sprocket it's gonna be, even the chain is not sloppy with it.