I need a rear diff for my 2000 P38.
Anyone have a relatively low mileage one they would be willing to sell.
URGENT
Thanks

I suspect the biggest problem is going to be getting it to you, they're bloody heavy.

Apologies..... allow me reword the request....
“Need a rear dif from a North American source”.....

Yes, I can vouch that they are bloody heavy. I had mine replaced a couple of years ago by a local indy shop.
They fitted a recon 2 pin rear diff which was around £600 exchange plus labour from memory. A 4 pin diff would have been the best part of £1000 just for the diff. If yours is for a 4.6, it will have the 4 pin diff at the rear.
Or buy just the bits which are needed like the crownwheel and pinion and get a local transmission shop to rebuild it. They need to know what they are doing. It is quite specialist.

The rear digs are usually 2 pin and yes the 4.6 does have 4 pin However 4 pin did is stronger --- the housing is the same on both so probably broke housing if 4 pin ---- it's lesser if 2 evils Either brake diff or 4pin brake housing -----I know Tom at Roverviews sends parts abroad Maybe he could help

2 pin on the diesel and 4.0 litre, 4 pin on the 4.6. Ashcrofts do a reconditioned one for £285 for the 2 pin or £370 for the 4 pin (https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/differentials/p38-rr-diff.html) but if you can find one over there, that would be easier. I can post up on .net for you if you like, what area are you in?

That is cheap from Ashcrofts. Wish I had known at the time.

Found one! Breakers had it for $200 and $20 fuel to go pick it up. Comes with a 12 month warranty and was pulled from an 81,000 miles 4.6. Happy days.
Pinion bearing was knackered and I had not the skills nor the tools replace that and Indy wanted $780 for parts and labor!! Havin a laff? Says it’s a big job with pulling half shafts etc etc like I’m some half wit and him using terms that impress a housewife ....... I’ve decided it’s cheaper overall to replace the entire diff instead. Job looks straight forward enough.....
I have leaking right hub seal so I will do the diff and both rear seals myself then Bobs your uncle....
$780 ...... please......

Well done you mate as you said swap the complete thing ---- gets you out of the house for a while 👍 saves a fortune when you do stuff yourself

When I am separating the driveshaft from the rear diff do I just need to separate the one end or does the entire shaft have to be dropped? If I remove the 4 bolts do I just give the shaft a belt with a lump hammer to drop it? The workshop manual just instructs me to disconnect the driveshaft without specifically saying one end or the entire unit.

Are you talking about the rear prop shaft?
If so remove the 4 bolts. They are imperial and you need the special socket to make it easier. The propshaft will then slide up on the splines at the transfer box end and allow you to remove it. The diesel is a bit different. It has a rubber donut in the middle.
Safety ... chock the wheels securely. The handbrake will not work with the prop off.
I also had to raise one of the wheels up to rotate the prop a bit when the bolts where inaccessable.

You will obviously need to take the half shafts out to get at your diff. They just come out with a gentle tap (or mine did) once the brakes and axle bolts are removed.

Well that just got more complicated....
I was under the impression that all that was needed was to remove the 4 bolts securing the driveshaft/prop shaft to the rear diff and drop it then access the 10 rear diff nuts.... didn’t read anywhere about splines on a transfer box.....
In fact the workshop manual section 51 page 4 states “Remove 4 nuts and bolts securing propeller shaft to differential. Release shaft and tie aside; discard nuts.
What am I missing?

You have to undo the 6 bolts that hold the half shafts in place and pull them out a couple of inches so the ends are clear of the diff. So disconnect the prop shaft (and tie it out of the way), with both rear wheels off the ground, take the wheels off and undo the two bolts holding the brake callipers and tie them out of the way, undo the 6 bolts that hold the hub bearing to the axle casing and pull that out until you feel it come out of the diff, sit it on something so you don't damage the oil seal, then undo the ring of bolts holding the diff to the housing and drop it out. Be aware it is heavy.

Thanks Gilbertd, that seems to be how I read it. I’ve previously changed both rear hubs in past 7 months so that task is familiar.
I’m going to await the arrival of the replacement unit before removing the damaged one so as to have an idea of the weight involved etc....

I’m about to call quits on project.....
I can’t get any of the nuts on prop shaft to budge. Nothing. I’ve PB blasted them and got a perfect size socket on and nothing.....
Think I will have to take it to Indy to complete unless I can get my hands on the tool DA1065. Regular socket is not doing it for me.....
As an aside, and this may sound like a thick question, but how do I rotate the prop shaft? I putRR in neutral and tried turning in by hand and it doesn’t shift.....
Does anyone have this tool? I’d obviously be willing to pay for shipping to USA and will return it in kind.

I'd have a look on Ebay for that tool if you want it. I'd suspect that you'd find shipping it both ways to cost you more than the tool would cost you to get hold of and keep. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Drive-Shaft-Socket-Wrench-with-9-16-Inch-Nut-3-8-Inch-Drive-Tool-DA1065/264094265801 This one looks to be in the US ? You'd probabbly also get hold of it alot quicker that way.

You'd need at least the rear wheels off the ground and the handbrake off to turn it as well as being in neutral. Not sure how the D2 differs in that respect but we had mine on a lift when we last had the propshaft off so you might need the front wheels loose to be able to spin it around.

There’s one on eBay USA but earliest it can get to me isMarch 29th! I suspect he is buying it fromChina...
P38is on blocks at this time so I need it within 7 days or so....

To turn the prop you have to have one front and one rear wheel off the ground. Tool here https://www.walmart.com/ip/New-Drive-Shaft-Socket-Wrench-with-9-16-Inch-Nut-3-8-Inch-Drive-Tool-DA1065/433893693 although twice the price of here but once you take shipping into account, probably not too bad.

Cheers Gilbertd.... just bought that.
Re the wheels, does it matter which wheels are off the ground? I have the rear on jack stands with wheels and hubs off with half shafts removed. I can easily jack up either front side.....

No, doesn't matter which side as long as one of them is clear of the ground. Then the prop spins so easily you can't get any grunt on the nuts as the whole thing turns. You should be able to get the socket on two of them, drop the front wheel back down, undo those two, lift the wheel, turn it so you can get to the other two, then drop it again (and put the handbrake on to stop the front wheels driving it off the axle stands at the back).