I'm doing the heads on a totally butchered p38 1997 4.6. The battery went flat on the guy, since then front doors are superlocked, managed to get rear quarter out and gain access. It's not taking eka code from the door, in fact doesn't seem to be doing much, I've got engine disabled up on the dash, does this sound like a resync or is nanocom or faultmate needed, I've not had to deal with locks much so not that up on them, it's a pain as it's in Sussex so don't wanna get the engine right but can't start the bloody thing ( when I say it's butchered, l322 conversion, coils, air con pipes cut, heat shields missing, silicon everywhere, inner arches butchered. Mixture of different bolts of varying sizes, It goes on and on,,)
Well Chris you know who's leading here when it comes to locks, wait for his reply. Seems to me the EKA is needed (fully charged battery first) and is it the correct EKA code? Let the owner verify at the dealer. Seems the battery has drained in locked mode. Plus, are the microswitches in the driversdoor working? Not much but all I can say.
Tony.
Apparently he was told it's a new lock ( I don't think so) eka he got from dealers, but I'm not getting anything from indicators or dash, as I said, this car has been serverly hacked about ☹️️
Tried entering the EKA via nanocom? A 97 might have a recent enough software version on the BECM, I think? Not sure.
I don't have a nanocom, will see if my stepfather diagnostics allows that, at 3k I would hope it does
How about the little rod connecting the barrel with the lock? It's only a tiny little spring that holds it in place and might fall off. Then you can turn the key whatever you want but nothing happens.
If the software on the BECM (shown on the sticker on top of the fuse box) is 36 or above then it should accept the EKA via the diagnostics port.
You should always be able to open the drivers door with the key if it's superlocked, as it's mechanical linkage in the latch which moves with the key. Some of them can be pretty stiff though,
I'd be trying to do EKA from the OBD port first as that would be the nice and easy solution
Cheers marty, it refuses to unlock with the key which is what I thought was strange. Will see if my stepfathers diagnostic will allow me to enter the eka, will check the sticker when I'm there, if not is it becm to you ?
Ferryman wrote:
How about the little rod connecting the barrel with the lock? It's only a tiny little spring that holds it in place and might fall off. Then you can turn the key whatever you want but nothing happens.
Problem I have is cars up against a fence, and can't open the doors, might investigate getting the door panel off, fingers crossed
no10chris wrote:
Cheers marty, it refuses to unlock with the key which is what I thought was strange. Will see if my stepfathers diagnostic will allow me to enter the eka, will check the sticker when I'm there, if not is it becm to you ?
If it refuses, then if the BECM comes to me then I can unlock it, and get it ready to refit, yes. It should then return to being unlocked and just unlock everything when it comes back... however, I'm a bit pressed for time as I'm due to go away for 6 weeks from around the 16th - and might have some other work on this week.. I could just fit it in to unlock and send back, but would have to be fairly quick in getting sent to me unfortunately.
No worries, I'm there tomorrow so it could be with you Tuesday if needed, thanks
no10chris wrote:
Problem I have is cars up against a fence, and can't open the doors, might investigate getting the door panel off, fingers crossed
No need to take the doorcard off, if you unscrew the torx bolt in the side of the door that holds the dooorhandle (leave the bolt one or two turns in the handle, the spacer might fall down) and pull the doorhandle a bit out you must see two rods, one from the actual doorhandle to the lock and one from the barrel to the lock. If the last one is missing it is probably bunging on the lock. This is the one that is needed for entering EKA code.
Can't get to side of door as superlocked !
Than the only way to get in is by the tailgate. Do you have 12Volts? Behind the right-rear bumper there is a loom with 6 white wires coming from the front doorlatch, one of them provides ground to the button of the tailgate. Take a stanleyknife and wire that to ground, have someone push the button while you cut the insulation of those wires one by one, as soon as you hit the right groundwire the lock pops open and you're in. Crawl to the driversdoor and lift the sillbutton, pull doorhandle.
I've got access. Removed a rear quarter light glass, but the front doors are superlocked, buttons won't lift. the seat won't move as part of the hash up of this car, wires everywhere. so gonna have fun getting any access to the door panel.
Must be fun working on this one...
no10chris wrote:
Problem I have is cars up against a fence, and can't open the doors, might investigate getting the door panel off, fingers crossed
As you're into the car now, why not just sling a chain onto it and drag it away from fence?
Can't you lift a sillbutton from the inside of a superlocked car? That means that you can lock in people and no way to get out? I don't believe that.
As you discribe it the wiring is a mess, seats don't move etc. Maybe you can Houdini-wise unbolt a chair from the rails to get to the BeCM and ask Marty to reprogram it as 'open' (when possible), as soon as you connect it again the car should return to it's last state, = open. I may be talking nuts but my imagination tells me so. Just trying to avoid the last option, the can of fuel and the box of matches.
It's true- from the handbook:
"SUPERLOCKING
If the vehicle is ’superlocked’ (with either the
handset, or the key), the doors CANNOT be
unlocked or opened from inside the vehicle.
For this reason DO NOT superlock the vehicle
with passengers inside."
Ferryman wrote:
Can't you lift a sillbutton from the inside of a superlocked car? That means that you can lock in people and no way to get out? I don't believe that.
You beat me with that, I'm out of creativity.