Anyone used one of these?

It is a Sealey scissor type transmission lift. TJ150E.

Looks ideal for lifting in a transfer box. It is rated for 150 Kgs and the transfer box weighs 75 Kgs.
Made in China and re badged. A few people do them.

I used one to get the transfer case out.
Because the car was on a four post lift it was betwixt and beteeen the right height so ended up putting it on a another hydraulic lift which was a bit awkward.

It is not a very large area on top and with the odd shape of the TC it was pretty unstable.

Used it again to put it all back in with Romanrobs help.

If you need one you are welcome to both mine. Based near Dorking.

Yes, works fine unless you don't keep the thread well greased. OK for lowering as gravity helps but hard work lifting. With the TC you need to make up something that will keep it at the correct angle before you lower it so you can keep it at that angle when you come to put it back. Does this mean you've found the problem with your rebuilt TC?

Another option is just a transmission jack adapter on a trolley jack. Bit more choice of support.

Not the P38, but I bought and used one of these trolley jack adaptors - the exact one in the picture - recently to pull the gearbox and transfer box out of my Defender.

Unless you have the vehicle itself lifted, on a ramp or the like, then it's very difficult/impossible to remove the combination of jack/adapter/transmission out from underneath the car. I managed it by using another trolley jack and lots of bits of wood to lift the chassis rail high enough, but I doubt I'd be able to do that on the RR.

I'd also ditched the adjustable arms and simply drilled some holes into the base plate to match threaded holes in the boxes - that worked well, and reduced the height, but still not enough.

I'm not knocking the adapter itself, just pointing out that if the car itself is on its wheels, and on the ground, it won't drop the boxes low enough to be able to pull them out - or vice versa, to get the transfer box back underneath the car.

Thanks for the comments guys and the photos were great.
I think I will buy one then. The cheapest is about £110 or so. I prefer a Sealey badged one even if they are all the same. Hilka do them as well.
I have got an extra 2" of lift on the car with the Arnott Gen III's so it may clear. I have also got a set of ramps and HD axle stands just in case.
I plan to do it in stages and rope some mates in. I am still smarting over the money the garage charged and nothing was accomplished.
I haven't found the problem yet Richard. The box is back under my workbench where it lay for many years.
I suspect that when I split the case to change the planetary gears, maybe the selector mechanism didn't go back quite right. Even though I turned it by hand. Won't know till I take it apart again. I am getting geared up to have another go at it over the next week or two. It has got to be Do It Yourself with a p38. I will weld up a frame to hold the box or make one in wood.

I could rotate the selector shaft using a pair of pliers and could get high - neutral - low selected (counted the output rotations for each input shaft rotation) when I had my transfer out a few weeks ago.

You should be able to test yours in a similar way! The selector shaft actually rotated pretty easily I thought.

Edit:
I used a jack similar to the one Davidall used to get my transfer in and out. I had to take it off the jack to get the transfer case out from under the car.
I made an adaptor bracket that bolts to the transfer and jack for the reinstall. This allowed me to angle it perfectly making the reinstall easy.

JLimmelman: the transfer box made a crunching sound when put into "D" with the engine running. The selector shaft was tested while in the car and moved the full range.
While on the bench, I rotated the shaft by hand and the other end moved freely. Can't remember if it was the input or output shaft I twisted, but all seemed OK.
I should have done what you said and done it more thoroughly. Counted the rotations and maybe put 12v on the motor to test it.
I think something is wrong inside, so I will split the case again and have a look.
Have now ordered the scissor lift.

I am by no means an expert, so please take my thoughts with a pinch of salt!
All I can imagine is that the reduction hub isn't moving through it's full range of motion for some reason. Either the selector fork assy and interlock spool are not moving as they should or perhaps the selector and reduction hub are not mated correctly?

Another thought:
EDIT: removed because I was talking rubbish. Thanks for the correction Richard.

I had my transfercase in low when reassembling it, tested the high/neutral/low was all working on the bench, selected high range, counted the rotations to confirm and then refitted the ratio control motor that had been left in high range when removing it from the car. This seems to have worked for me.

The motor moves less than 360 degrees as it has stops at each end of the travel and switches to tell the ECU what position it is in. As it is on a worm drive you can't turn the output other than by rotating the motor. So no matter what position it was in when taken off, it will stay there and it is the ratio change rod that has to be moved to put the box into the same position. Not sure what the spacer does (item 19) but the manual is very specific in saying to make sure you put it back so that could cause things to get out of alignment if it was missed.

Thanks for the correction Richard! Post above edited so as not to confuse anyone.

DavidAll wrote:

I used one to get the transfer case out.
Because the car was on a four post lift it was betwixt and beteeen the right height so ended up putting it on a another hydraulic lift which was a bit awkward.

It is not a very large area on top and with the odd shape of the TC it was pretty unstable.

Used it again to put it all back in with Romanrobs help.

If you need one you are welcome to both mine. Based near Dorking.

I remember !! All very precarious : o)