I don't think Hawkeye are supported any more.

The messages sound like a locked BECM but that is not possible, as You were able to connect with the Nano.
I have both, the Hawkeye total ... which is really and sadly not available new any more - and the Nano.
I bought the Nano only out of curiosity ... and to keep the more valuable Hawkeye total at home and not in the car.
The dongles for the Hawkeye are still available and the total covers all models up to 2014 (and some later). Maybe You had the wrong cable / dongle?
The Nano could not find / reset errors, which were indicated correct and better with the hawkeye, which could reset them. HEVAC for example.
Another diagnostic option is the RSW suite v4 for a laptop / tablet. That's usually my first and preferred choice.

But great finding Richard!

KCR wrote:

Another diagnostic option is the RSW suite v4 for a laptop / tablet. That's usually my first and preferred choice.

I have used the free older version of the RSW Unlock software on the EAS & it's brilliant. I hadn't realised that the paid for version had Nanocom like capabilities. It's a lot cheaper than buying a Nanocomm but does it do everything that a Nanocom can do?

Hi Nigel, sadly not all the functions, especially the realtime stuff for the ECM. But it was very reliable, good user interface! It tells You when, which state of the ignition, which is a major annoyance with the nano.
I bought it initially BEFORE I bought my 2nd P38. But I am a somewhat freak, when it comes to diagnostics. Started with the late classics, which had ABS, EAS and Efi comparable to the P38, but no BECM.
IMHO the RSW ist worth considering as an option ;-)

Not sure if RSW V4 can show live data, I don't believe it can, in which case it would have been no good with finding the fault we had. Good for most things but still not as comprehensive, or convenient, as the Nanocom.

I’ve had my P38 for 5 years and so far the RSW (paid for version) has done everything I’ve needed. When I got the Disco, it had a few issues that needed something like a Nanocom, so I bought the Evo and have been very happy with it. The Nano is more convenient than the RSW so I have only used it since getting it.

The RSW V4 can check several signals to the BECM, but it is as in medical cure ... whatever helps is the right medicine ;-)

Definitely the Nano can do more. And since the Hwakeye total isn't available the only full comprehensive for live engine data like mass air flow etc.
I gave my faultmate to friends with RR Classics, I really disliked the somewhat nerdish design ;-)

I would say the very Sherlock deductive approach of Richard was the key, not the instrument ...

Thanks for the compliment but without the Nanocom we'd never have found it. Open the door and the interior lights come on, close it, wait for the time out and they go out. That says it isn't anything to do with the door ajar switch. So you'd start looking elsewhere and find nothing. It was only when I noticed the BeCM thought the door was open when it wasn't and didn't change state when it was, that I realised something wasn't quite right. That needed the Nano to be able to see the inputs to the BeCM, even the BeCM SID doesn't mention that there is obviously two inputs triggered by the door ajar switch.

Just a quick update, as Richard says the car is happily going to sleep now for the first time in many years. Such a silly small cheap part had potentially ended the life of a stunningly nice rare P38. The car had been abandoned for for years and being sold as 'spares or repair'. Without Richard I think it would have sadly ended up on a scrap heap. Thankyou Richard. Although we could not get my Hawkeye to communicate on the day ironically I plugged it in the following day and it worked perfectly first time. (Sunroof now disabled).

Yet another update....... Yes she's now 'sleeping' like a baby and we've certainly fixed one battery drain problem but sadly she's still killing batteries! (It's not the battery as I lent her a brand new battery from my diesel P38. Spoken to Richard and he's suggested the following 3 possibilities. Alternator, interior light or sunroof...... I've installed another tested interior light, unplugged the sunroof motor (as well as turning the function of with my Hawkeye) and now just need to rule out the alternator.....

….. or the volumetric sensor for the alarm. I believe that an also cause isssues.

Checked that as it is one of the things that keeps the BeCM awake. As the BeCM is now going to sleep, staying asleep and the sensor has been changed anyway, it has to be something else that is permanently powered. To take a fully charged, new, battery down to completely dead in 48 hours says it's something drawing a fair amount of current.

Does it have a towbar with twin sockets? I found the wiring on mine to be in a right state, suspect the constant power supply acclerated the rotting process as it had crept up around 6ft of the wire from the sockets. Could see its possible to have issues from that. I pulled both the fuses for the sockets to prevent that as I never use those connections anyway, and could easily put fuses back in if needed to do so.

Don't know but it's another possible. When I went to look at it last week I took a clamp on ammeter with me but as we knew the BeCM wasn't sleeping, that was what we concentrated on. With hindsight, we should have checked for any other current draw after the BeCM was sleeping.

A further update. Phil changed the alternator thinking that was the only thing left but it still flattened the battery after a couple of days. So I've been there today and started from scratch. Clamp on ammeter showed it was drawing 2.8A on the cable to the fusebox, after 2 minutes the BeCM went to sleep and the draw dropped to 1.8A. Pulling Maxi fuse 1 and it dropped to 1.4A, pulling maxi fuses 2 and 3 had no effect but pulling 4 and it dropped down to 0.4A. Definitely getting somewhere.

Set the drivers door latch to closed so the BeCM would go to sleep and continued. Maxi fuse 1 feeds fuses 1, 2, 3 and 4 in the BeCM, pulling them one at a time and fuse 1 saw it drop to 1.4A, so it is something on fuse 1 drawing current. Maxi fuse 4 feeds fuses 12, 13, 14 and 15 so pull them one at a time and with fuse 15 pulled, current draw dropped, so it is something on fuse 15 too. Checking the ETM and we started to get worried as the only thing common to fuses 1 and 15 is the DSP amp. Then when I put fuse 15 back in I noticed two things, the first was a small spark as I plugged the fuse in and the other, as I was sitting next to the drivers door speaker, I heard a pop from the speaker as I plugged the fuse in. It shouldn't do that, the ignition is off and so is the radio, so the DSP amp should be turned off, not drawing any current at all and certainly not causing a pop through the speakers. That points towards the radio head unit itself as it sends a wake up signal to the DSP amp. Out with the Alpine head unit, unplug the grey plug from the back and the current draw drops away completely. Plug it back in, the speakers pop and the current draw goes up again. Whip an identical Alpine head unit out of one of Phil's other cars, fit that and all is sweetness and light. Current draw sitting at 1.4A, 2 minutes later the BeCM sleeps and it drops to 0.5A and 30 seconds later when (I assume) the alarm settles and it drops to 0.024A, or 24mA, just what you would expect. So, it appears there were two separate problems all along, the door outstation stopping the BeCM from sleeping and a faulty Alpine stereo that was keeping the DSP amp permanently on. Not surprising a previous owner had fitted a battery isolating switch.