Hi guys,

I tried searching, honest… (see my other post on how the search function works) but haven’t found anything specific so I’ll just ask the question.

As I’ve removed the rear axle for a wee refurb I’m wondering if I should just do the rear diff pinion seal while it’s sitting on the bench? Though I tried to be careful, I have a suspicion that while using a wire brush on the grinder to remove rust from the casing some bits of rust might have sneaked between the dirt flange and the seal. I’d be really peed off if I fitted it only to find the seal leaked in a couple of weeks time. Based on the condition the half-shaft seals at the ends of the axle were in it probably wouldn’t need it otherwise, but it seems like a good idea.

Now despite owning two previous RR classics, and a Defender for over 20 years, I’ve never done one of these. So what’s it like?

I’m in two minds whether to buy a proper drive flange holding tool, or just to drill two holes in a bit of steel bar. Any thoughts?

Any particular issues in getting the seal out / back in?

Just generally any thoughts?

Ta.

just dril a hole in the seal and screw a screw in it and pull it out , may need 2
PS if its not leaking i would just leave it . the only reasons i have seen them leak is the seal has cut the yoke or the bearings have wear in them ?

Seal removal and replacement is straight forward as per most other oils seals. If you get the old seal out without mangling it you can use it when tapping the new seal into place. I would recommend changing the flange as well as the seal - the flange may well have some wear marks from the old seal which will not match the new seal or may end up prematurely wearing it.

Make sure you have correct flinger and seal pairing. There are 2 types.
I made a tool from some plywood. Basically a hole just slightly larger than the seal lip and tapped it in using a duct tape roll and block of wood.
If its even slightly off square it'll leak. 3 attempts with 3 new seals lol.
A rattle gun is very handy to undo the center nut.

Thanks guys.

I got the “leave it alone” advice elsewhere, and I understand it, it’s just that I can’t help feeling some rust flakes have got in there during the stripping process. They might never do any harm, or they might damage the seal as soon as the car’s moving again. I wonder if I might try the ‘worst of all worlds’ and try lifting the flange out enough to blow out any rust flakes without changing anything…?

I didn’t order a flange when I ordered seals…. Perhaps I should have. I might have a look at it today and if needed, get a new one ordered up before the Xmas closures, so I’d have it to hand if I get that far.

I do have a good rattle gun, and a selection of old bearing races I use for drifting seals in. I also have as a proper seal drifting kit - but that probably won’t work with the main diff pinion in the way. This is kind of what I mean though - it’s surely much easier to get a new seal in square with the thing on the bench.

Edited to ask - what are the different flange / seal pairings? How would I recognise them or tell them apart?

FTC3549 is the old type which has a seal without a protrusion on the outside.
If you use the new seal with that mud shield it'll rip it apart.

The new shield has a recess for that oil seal.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRONT-AND-REAR-DIFF-FLANGE-KIT-FOR-RANGE-ROVER-P38-24-SPLINE-ROVER-AXLE-STC3124/111976653808?hash=item1a125423f0:g:jF8AAOxykUZThLj1&pageci=382b801f-6e3c-4b50-a0c4-3465fd270af8&redirect=mobile

Thank you.

I think I’m ok then - my car is a 2001 m/y. The mud shield in the eBay pic you linked to is what I have, and I’ve ordered STC4851. I ordered a few of them, because my Defender has the same diff, and a fairly new rebuilt version. I’ll need to check now that the mud shield is the same.

I didn’t bother trying anything today as it was easily -1c here. Tomorrow’s supposed to hit the heady heights of 4 or 5c!