Thank you OB for clearing things, I was mislead by the way conrods have the 'dot' in different positions on left and right bank, while the pistons are arways 'dotted' to front of engine. I installed the rings at 120º interval.

I did not measure the endplay of the cam with the old thrustplate because it has some signs of wear on the frontside, where the sprocketboss meets and thought better buy new. Only original LR available, what can go wrong. The 'new' aftermarket sprocket has a bit thinner boss and explains the wider play. I have placed old LR sprocket upon the new aftermarket sprocket and cannot discover any wear of the teeth, so I'll use it again. What you say about slop in a chain being eliminated by cntrifugal force is new to me, I can imagine it but always thought it was not recommended.

Next is heads on, I have read in a different thread you can replace the 20Nm 90/90 sequence for 3 stages to 80 Nm (using stretchbolts). Was'nt from you I guess but what do you think?

80 ft/lb not 80 Nm. 80 ft/lb works out to just under 110 Nm (108.465435907287 if you want to be really accurate), so using that method you'd tighten to something like 50-70-90-110.

I thought you had bought ARP head studs from V8 tuner aswell? Or am i getting mixed up with another owner on here?

I did my head studs at about 25lb/ft, 45lb/ft, and then 70lb/ft as a final, with leaving them for 15-20 mins between stages to let them settle. I then left them overnight at 70lb/ft, and then re-checked them in the correct sequence, and found that most of them were about 68lb/ft, so tweaked them back up to 70lb/ft and have left them since...

Page 5 of this document explains it in a far more precise way than I could!
http://www.tayloredge.com/reference/Mechanical/SilentChain2.pdf

Ferryman wrote:

What you say about slop in a chain being eliminated by centrifugal force is new to me, I can imagine it but always thought it was not recommended.

OB that is a very interesting read about toothchains (they did something good at LR), as they are based in Gronau (a few kms from the Dutch border) I will mail them for a Dutch translation because I want to read it very carefully.
I've made some pictures the chainslop with old original sprocket and new aftermarket sprocket:

Old:

New:

I have placed the sprocket next to eachother on the vice, the newer is 1.5 mm smaller in overall diameter! Hurray for aftermarket.

Thanks Richard for the correction, I love these different measuring standards. My reason for asking is that a given value in Nm is far more precise than "two times 90º" especially from a low rate like 20 Nm. You have told us many times about the disadvantages of stretchbolts but I can't take responsability from the cost of ARP's. When DHL comes at the door there is someone with an axe behind me.

So no Marty I don't have the ARP's, as Richard cleared in posts 84/85 in your buildthread. Besides, the ARP's have a finer thread on top of the stud than on the bottom that goes into the block so one cannot compare the torquevalues. I whish I had access to a lab where they can find out the true difference in pressure, regarding the 90/90 way and a certain value in Nm.

It's interesting how the new chain looks like it's sitting much deeper (more fully engaged) on the old sprocket than on the new sprocket. Chain also looks to have less slack, which is the opposite of what you'd expect. Maybe that's just an optical illusion though.

Tony- I've had a bit more of a think about this and if the diameter of the new sprocket is smaller than the old, the pitch centres will be closer together on the new as well which is why the new chain sits higher (if indeed it does and it's not an illusion).
Good practice says use new sprockets with new chains so I'm not going to suggest otherwise, and giving out advice on forums where you can't back it up is just wrong, but if I were building that engine, I'd use the original sprockets as they look like a much "happier" combination with the new chain.
I thought really hard before posting this as the last thing you need is advice that goes against all good practice, so I've left it as an "if I were doing this".

Thank you for your honest reply, I value that and order genuine sprockets. (I see you are spending a lot of time as a gardener so thank you for your time)

It's nice to have a break. I'm not emotionally suited to being a construction worker!
I've found some sprockets which should do the trick in terms of quality. I've never had a problem with Bearmach OEM:
https://www.lrdirect.com/ERR2958-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-oem.html
https://www.lrdirect.com/ERR7375-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-bm.html
https://www.lrdirect.com/ERC7929-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-oem.html

Ferryman wrote:

I wish I had access to a lab where they can find out the true difference in pressure, regarding the 90/90 way and a certain value in Nm.

The problem there, and the reason I don't like stretch bolts, is that the pressure is going to be different depending on the exact spec of the stretch bolts you are using. While I have no doubt that the ones originally supplied to Land Rover and fitted when the engine was first assembled, will give the required pressure. However, ones made 20 years later may well not meet that spec. Then there is going to be the difference between genuine land Rover, Britpart and every other ones in between. You don't even know that all bolts in one set are going to exert the exact same pressure. So the pressure is likely to vary using the 90/90 method but when you tighten to a certain torque you know the pressure is going to be the same.

It's running! After the initial 5 seconds rattle of the lifters it's running smooth as silk. Found a puddle of oil when I looked underneath, forgot to tighten the returnhose from the cooler (shame!). Now warming up- stop engine and allow to cool and repeat to get rid of the airlocks. No more pressure in the coolingsystem, hurray! Still lpg not connected yet, do that while cooling down.

Later this afternoon I will take her for a short spin and see what the replaced frontdiff does.

Did it have a new cam? Need to break it in if so.

Yes it has a new cam, cambearings, thrustplate and tappets, new mains and conrodbearings (standard), tophatted liners, pistonrings, oilpump, coreplugs, front and rearseals, driveplate. That's about it I believe. At install I've smeared the cam and lobes with the same red stuff as the bearings, just as initial protection.

Breaking in the cam (I've heard) is letting is run for half an hour at 2000 rpm, but only after all airlocks have gone and the temp stays at a steady 85ºC. Correct? I've had in the past when doing a headjob the initial start up was problematic when it comes to blowing air out, I stick to the manual for the first attempts.

What can I do more?

Tony.

Cam breaking in and coolant system health are separate things unfortunately Tony. Cam break-in is about running and holding varying rpm up to 2500 for around 20 mins. (depending on cam grinders instructions). It's pretty much about mechanical abrasion and is temperature agnostic.
It's a quandary though, given the need to cool the engine adequately while you're doing it. No straight answer, I'm afraid.

That's what I guessed Mark, life is about compromises. Took it for a ride about 30 kms on rural road so I could maintain revs between 1500 and 2000 rpm, no complaints! This was my first major overhaul, when it starts after first attempt (don't forget to put the fuelpumprelay back in) is a feeling of victory. The result is very satisfying, she runs sweet, no ticks,taps, cold nor warm. It took a while though before the heater gave sufficient heat, maybe airlocks in the rather bending LPG routing. The first 500 kms will be very gently and no over-revving. The rumbling from the diff has gone too with my replacement frontdiff, all I hear now is cupping from my tyres, I will swap them left to right.

The next job is knocking on the door already, when looking under the frontbumper I saw something covered in green: a rotted dryer.

Good to hear she's up and running....

I'm looking forward to getting back and working on mine again and getting it installed... And then obviously the nervous first turn of the key!

Marty

I'm looking forward to getting back and working on mine again and getting it installed... And then obviously the nervous first turn of the key!

Don't be nervous, never had one of these fail to start first time, sometimes takes a bit of holding the starter till compression is there, but they always start 😁

So after a good 1300 kms of problem-free motoring mixed city/motorway it's time to refresh filter and oil.
This is what I'm going to throw in, a semi synthetic:

I think it is the right viscosity for the temperatures we have to deal with here.
(I don't think it will give the toffee smell I remember when I was young ha ha)