Hello Everyone,
My name is Gordon from Malta and 2 months ago I bought a Range Rover P38 2.5 Diesel Hse 1995 Model.
At the moment I am still discovering a lot of problems which most of them are solved but still have some issues.
The Ac is a headache and I need to read some faults.
What software is available to be used to scan the faults ?
Thank you
Hi and welcome. If you intend keeping the car, you won't go far wrong with a Nanocom (https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/product/ncom06-range-rover-p38-edc-diesel-kit), not cheap but it will pay for itself over time. A slightly less capable, computer based, solution is the RSW EASUnlock V4 suite (https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/range-rover-p38a).
There's some things you can check with a HEVAC that is giving you the book symbol. Does the temperature change on both sides when you go from Lo to HI, if not, you have a faulty blend motor. Are both blowers working, take the pollen filter covers off and filters out and you can see then down the hole. If only one is working, that will cause a problem. Does it have any refrigerant in it? Leaks from the top left corner of the condenser are common. I know seeing the AC compressor on a diesel isn't easy, but can you see if the clutch is engaging? If it has refrigerant but the clutch doesn't engage, check the connectors on the pressure switches, dirty contacts aren't unknown.
Hello Thank you for your reply.
So The ac nearly a month ago I filled it up with refrigerant and was working although electric Cooling Fans never worked.
Now I noticed that Ac Compressor works fine but the cooling pipes are not getting cold. It looks like refrigerant is leaking although I did a vacuum test.
Interior LH and RH blowers are working after replacing relays.
changing temperature from cold to hot doesn't change.
If the temperature doesn't change then there is a problem with the blend motors. When the ignition is first switched on, they are driven from one end of their travel to the other and the feedback from the blend motor internal potentiometer is checked. If it doesn't show full travel, the HEVAC shuts down the output to the blend motors so they won't move when told to.
If you aren't getting a change in temperature on the pipes to and from the compressor, then chances are you have a slight leak and the refrigerant has leaked away. A simple test is to see if there is any pressure in the system still. Static pressure (when the engine isn't running), should be in the region of 6 bar on both ports, dropping to 2.6 bar on the low port and rising to 10.6 bar on the high port when working. These pressures are at an ambient of 20 degrees C but will give you an idea of what is happening.