If it was unlocked it should have started unless passive immobilisation is still enabled as it needs to receive an unlock code to reset the immobiliser. That will kick in if the car is unlocked but not started within 30 seconds. Ordinarily it will receive an unlock code when the key is put in the ignition, the coil around the lock causes the fob to transmit without you noticing (unless you happen to look at the LED on the fob as you put the key in, you'll see it flash).

No need to match anything, a receiver is a receiver and you can swap them at will. They all do the same job, just some versions better than others.

Cheers!

Hi Chasman, just for interest i have heard off this RF interference issues being caused by other electronic gadgets , eg weather stations and wireless security window locks etc. the problem seems to be when the battery's go flat and the units send out a low battery signal , it's these signals that interfere with cars, cause starting issues and the drain problem like you are having , even in modern cars today, so if you have any of these check the battery's aren't flat or ask the neighbors if they have any with flat battery signals . if this is a new issue , just started doing it for no reason it may be causing your issue, just an FYI .

Chasman wrote:

Good board from my car from previous MY. No Faraday cage. Is the sub-board a filter? (Wrote this before hearing how Marty solved it).

We need both cars working for Monday so we'll leave the faulty car on charge and in the furthest space.

3rd gen boards like this one are £169.49 from East Coast 4x4. There's 200 percent brand tax on the LR version from LR Direct so we've ignored that.

AFAIK there are no pattern parts only genuine LR. Is that new? If so it's a very good price. I paid £299 for a new LR Gen 3 receiver about six years ago. I had owned the car for about six years at that point & never suffered battery drain but I had always lived in rural locations. I then moved into town & was parking my P38 on the street & immediately started suffering from a flat battery if left for more than a day or two. It took me some weeks before my researches highlighted the problem during which time I became very adept at entering the EKA. At that time Marty was yet to develop his filter so the only option for me if I wanted to continue to park the car on the street was to buy a Gen 3 receiver (disconnecting the antenna didn't fix the issue for me).

There will be few if any used Gen 3 receivers available from breakers as they were never fitted to any new P38 as as this fix wasn't developed until after production ceased.

Good point (and warning to Chasman) nigelbb !

Chasman: Beware of adverts claiming to have the 'upgraded' Receiver (etc)... as it might just be the 2nd generation one you already have;
Genuine 3rd Generation part number is YWY500170 and a quick search shows these are £330 +

eg. https://www.lrseries.com/YWY500170-RADIO-REMOTE-RECEIVER-ASSY-NEW-GENUINE

There are lots of ads (ebay etc) saying "Genuine Green Spot" and/or 'upgrade' etc....
but it could just end up be the most expensive small green paper sticker you ever bought.....

This might help too: https://www.mez.co.uk/page12.html

mad-as wrote:

Hi Chasman, just for interest i have heard off this RF interference issues being caused by other electronic gadgets , eg weather stations and wireless security window locks etc. the problem seems to be when the battery's go flat and the units send out a low battery signal , it's these signals that interfere with cars

From many years of experience of tracing these sources, you are absolutely correct. Most things just stop working when a battery goes flat but Murphy's Law says that a device that has been designed to operate every 15 or 30 minutes, or only on a change of state, operate all the time. Ones that I found over the years were window sensors on burglar alarms (which also get offended when a spider takes up residence inside), oil tank level gauges and weather stations. Then there are inadvertent sources, remote controls jammed down the side of a sofa with a button pressed in, kids toys left switched on, wireless doorbells with the button stuck in and so on.

Wi-Fi and radio transmitter sites can cause a problem but not a battery drain, just a fob that won't work. When a radio receiver, no matter what type, is near to a high powered RF source, it suffers desensitisation so can no longer detect the wanted signal. Think of it like trying to listen to someone talking to you when you've got a lot of loud noise around you. This is when you get the situation where you park somewhere and can't lock or unlock the car with the remote. Putting the remote next to the receive aerial on the window will usually work as it is the R|F equivalent to shouting in someone's ear.