Hello folks,

I have bolted up a recon gearbox to the engine and I have a 1-2mm gap between the flex plate and the torque converter. Is this normal to allow a bit of float or should the flexplate be up against the torque converter?

Yes, a small gap is normal. You need to worry when there is no gap as that means the torque converter isn't fully home onto the gearbox oil pump.

Brilliant, thanks, particularly for the quick reply.

I use this to address an issue that might end up in a similar question ... the strange noise coming from the rear of the engine around the flywheel area, I fear is the flexplate breaking apart.
I wanted to do this together with the gearbox and transfer rebuild, but I fear I will not have that luxury, for time and budgetary reasons. But I would not like to remain stranded in the upcoming holidays on a side of the road with the family (that would be grounds for immediate divorce!).
I am thinking to order a HD flexplate from Ashcroft, and do only the "down and up" which is a hassle, but I could also address the rear crankshaft seal leaking ... anyone with experience in these works so far?

When I had to change my gearbox last year (which has done 30,000 miles since it went in), I changed the flex plate for an Ashcrofts HD one and changed the rear main seal while I was in there. If I was to be just doing that I would leave the gearbox in place, take the viscous fan off, the radiator out and move the engine forward on an engine crane to gain access that way.

Wow thanks for the novel idea, I actually never thought of that! Certainly would be less demanding in terms of stuff to unbolt and tons of weight to move to do it this way!
And yes, I would only do the seal (to stop leaking all over) and risking the flexplate leaving me stranded.
The gbox ain't bad, a bit of a "bump" in between 1-2 and 2-3 but I think is normal for the mileage and use, and the ta-ta-ta of the chain is heard only when you really floor it brutally, thing I very seldom do.

I will get organized and try to do it this way :-)
I could even have the right access to deal with the LPG injectors' replacement ... thing for another topic as well!

I ordered the flexplate (HD) from Ashcroft and I am ordering the rear seal (Corteco) so I can start to prepare for this task.
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/seal-crankshaft-rear-err2640g-p-3523.html

Perhaps silly question: in RAVE there are two small, they look like plastic, pieces:
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/seal-rear-main-bearing-aftermarket-lun000010-p-4086.html

As I have never seen the "rear" of the engine opened up, what are those and should I consider for replacement as well?
If yes, OE or aftermarket?
Anything else "in that area" worth bothering replacing, considering the difficulty to access the rear of the engine?
Thanks!

It’s probably a good time to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

Thanks Harv, that one "died" on me last year, circa 11k km ago, at over 263K km ... lived a long life :-)
It was an easy replacement, thanks to EAS of course :-)

The small ‘plastic’ pieces are the infamous ‘T’ seals for the rear most main bearing cap and, yes, they should definitely be replaced as well because it might just be those leaking and not the main seal. Besides which, even if they weren’t leaking before, on reassembly, having been disturbed, they may well then start leaking requiring the whole kit and caboodle doing again!

Darn ... well so to add to the list then!
And from what you tell me, might as well shell the difference between OE and Britpart and not risk this event again :-)

Definitely, particularly as they are pretty much insignificant in the whole cost of the job! . . . even at OEM prices, probably another £5 because there are two!!

But replacing the T seals means removing the rear main bearing cap, so rather than it being a half hour job to take off the rear cover, fit a new seal and put it back, you are looking at dropping the sump to get the main bearing cap off. Even if they are leaking, surely the oil won't get past the rear main seal anyway if that is good?

Well, I will see when I get there. I also had a sump gasket laying around, as I wanted before to clean the sump and strainer. For now I received the flexplate, when I get the other bits I will organize to do this,

The ‘T’ (or cruciform) seals prevent leaks around rear main bearing cap and which bypass rear crankshaft seal. Indeed a lot of people mistake leaking ‘T’ seals for a leaking main crankshaft seal because the symptoms are similar but the leak is actually via the sump to block interface and wonder why, after the effort of replacing the main seal they still have a leak! Let’s face it, they are there for a reason.

If you are absolutely confident that it is the main seal leaking and not the T seals then you can get away without changing them, but you’d better be 100% sure or disappointment awaits. If you do replace the T seals then follow the instructions TO THE LETTER or the seals will distort when everything is buttoned up and they will leak.