Hi, yet another question !!

I need to do a job on the handbrake and therefore the propshaft guard and the rear propshaft connection to the rear diff has to come off. I have a UJ 9/16th extended socket [from a few years back for some reason], but I wonder if somebody can tell me the correct bolt length for the rear diff so that I can order new ones before I start. Also, if possible what length are the propshaft guard bolts ?

I looked through the RAVE manual but it doesn't give the sizes unfortunately. I just know that the head size of the guard bolts and the diff nuts all seem to be 3/8 BSF but maybe someone could confirm this, please ?

Pierre3.

https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/87921/88144/6934
Does this help?

Hi Harv, I have looked at that schematic but, unfortunately, it does not list the part numbers or descriptions so I still don;t know the correct sizes.

I have emailed Jaguar Land Rover asking if they will give me the correct specifications, but after 4 days I have heard nothing. If that stays the same by Tuesday then I will start ringing LR main dealers to check with the parts departments.

Pierre3.

The bolts for the flanges are 3/8UNF thread and 30mm (1 1/8") long, the bolts for the guard are M8x25 as the picture Harv linked to shows. I replaced my propshaft flange bolts with Allen headed ones to make undoing them a lot easier. Just took one out, measured it and went to my local nut and bolt supplier. Got new Nyloc nuts for the other end too.

Richard, that's the thing I wondered about - is there any reason not to use normal nuts and bolts ? I have a big selection of assorted nuts and bolts from my work days, including things like coach screws M12, M14, M16 etc., stainless steel nuts and bolts and self tapping screws, and Allen head bolts and nuts. I have at least 6 boxes of stainless steel washers from M8's up to big 4mm thick penny washers.

I wouldn't use the SS bolts as I know from experience that the shear off quite easily.

So I will have a root about in my big spares box. I didn't think about Allen bolts.

What about going even further to ease of removal - using tie-wraps !!!! 😂 .

Pierre3.

Stainless would only be marginally stronger than tie-wraps, you need to use high tensile bolts so they don't just shear off the first time you put your foot down. I went for Allen headed, but in the same size, 3/8UNF, with a washer under the bolt head, so I can use a long hex key without the UJ yokes getting in the way.

Richard, thanks for that. I had a root this morning and although I have 8.8 high tensile allen bolts they are all too long, and of course they are nearly all metric anyway !!

So off the nut and bolts supplier, and get some UNF jobbies.

By the way, I gave up with the tie-wraps as I could only get two into the bolt holes. I can't understand why LR never thought of this when designing the P38.

Pierre3.