No need to drain the coolant, you'll lose a bit but not a lot, just take the Tee's out (assuming it has been plumbed in parallel with the heater) and replace with straight joiners (or replace the complete hoses with new). The spuds into the manifold will be M6 (normally, or they could be M5) thread so all you need are some very short bolts with a dollop of Hylomar on the threads. That will both act as a thread lock and make sure they seal. I run a single point system on mine but drilled my manifold years ago while it was off in case I ever wanted to change for a multipoint and Hylomar coated bolts have sealed the holes for years now.
Wiring might be a bit more complicated. It will probably have a tap into the Brown/Yellow wire that feeds ignition switched power to the fuel injectors, another one from the TPS feed and the injector cut wires. Just occasionally, the installer will also have connected into one of the lambda sensor feeds too but most don't. The feed from the ECU to each petrol injector will have been cut and a pair or wires connected to intercept the pulses from the ECU to each injector (these intercepts will be a colour and the same colour with a black stripe onto each injector feed), so you will need to remove those and reconnect the feed direct from the ECU to the injector.
If you look at the multivalve on the tank, it will have a knurled knob on it somewhere. That is the shut off for the output in addition to the electrically operated solenoid valve, so screwing that in will isolate the output from the tank.
Peterborough, Cambs
- '93 Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE, sold
- '97 Range Rover 4.0SE, in Oxford Blue with a sort of grey/blue leather interior sold as two is plenty.....
- '96 4.6HSE Ascot - now sold
- '98 4.0SE in Rioja Red
'98 Ex-Greater Manchester Police motorway patrol car, Range Rover P38 4.0, in Chawton white - the everyday car
All running perfectly on LPG
- Proud to be a member of the YCHJCYA2PDTHFH club.