Hi All, I did mention this topic in another posting, but thought I would flag up as a stand-alone topic.
I'm looking at treating all the underside with Jenolite rust converter and then Lanoguard to finish. I'm not sure if these are available beyond UK shores, but sure there will be similar. I'm really looking for those of you who have used these treatments, pro's & cons please..as against the more regular Waxoyl rust and seal treatment. Thanks, Les.

I use Dinitrol, but I’m an Aircraft Mechanic and I get expired product for free.

A friend who restored a Classic had that treated with Lanoguard but a Classic needs something as they do rot away nicely. The P38 doesn't really suffer from rust, the only ones I have seen that have been rusty are ones that have lived by the sea and almost certainly been used for launching a boat into sea water. When launching my boat I reverse down a slipway until I hear the exhausts are under water and know I've gone far enough for it to float off easily. That is in fresh water though so not a problem.

Gilbertd wrote:

A friend who restored a Classic had that treated with Lanoguard but a Classic needs something as they do rot away nicely. The P38 doesn't really suffer from rust, the only ones I have seen that have been rusty are ones that have lived by the sea and almost certainly been used for launching a boat into sea water. When launching my boat I reverse down a slipway until I hear the exhausts are under water and know I've gone far enough for it to float off easily. That is in fresh water though so not a problem.

Yes, Thanks Richard & Harv, I'm aware P38's don't particularly suffer from rusting, but mine does have a lot of just surface rust and thought I would treat if only to get it back looking neat, tidy and future proof. I believe some bodywork cavities can show sign of rust bubbling through and treated with drilling, spraying and capping off ? , are any of you aware ? which and where ?

The only bodywork areas that can rust (or corrode in the case of the alloy panels), are the bottom of the lower tailgate (alloy) which will probably benefit from something squirting inside it, the front lip on the bonnet and the rear wheelarches behind the rear doors. To treat the rear arches you'd need to take the wheelarch liner out to get at it from the inside. Theoretically the bottom of the doors could corrode if moisture got trapped in them but they do have drain holes so that shouldn't happen and they have a rubbing strip trim along the bottom anyway so it wouldn't be visible.

Thanks Richard, I'll add those areas and treat accordingly.