Aloha,
I have been doing battle with EAS gremlins.
Rt front would randomly go down sometimes in 15 min, sometimes not at all. For days.
Figured it as time to rebuild the valve block, so I got the kit and pulled one from my shelf, and did a clean rebuild.
Same issue. Exactly.
I had already done the soapy water test on the bag, but as I had a good spare, I replaced it.
Found that the old one, when inflated and soaped on the bench was a sieve!
Well, good. Job done. Not!
This one went down as well.
Grabbed my other spare front bag and Tested at 50 PSI for 4 days and no leaks on the bench.
Put it in. Same issue.
Had to go see the folks so did a 2500 mile round trip down south.
Problem persisted, but made the trip just fine.
As these were 14 year old Arnotts Gen II I contacted them and they sent me a pair of gen III bags under warranty as they no
longer make Gen II. They honored the fact that when I bought them in 2010, the warranty was unconditional.
Nice new bags for the front. Billet aluminum instead of plastic for the base. FREE!
Put them on, and guess what? Same issue.
SO, I changed the solenoid valve for the RT front bag for another good spare. Problem solved!
New issue, and the real reason for the post is that when the compressor shuts off, and I stop the engine, I hear a LOT of air hissing from the exhaust silencer. Not from the bags, from the tank. Let it sit overnight and it stayed up, but tank was empty.
Swapped the diaphragm valve and same issue.
Gotta be coming from the diaphragm I guess, but cannot see how it is getting there with the system off. Disc looked fine when I did
the rebuild, and it was not leaking like this prior to my trip
I have been staring at Paul P-38's diagrams for a while and am now cross eyed.
Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
Going to pull out the block again and replace the diaphragm, I guess.
Bolt: Sounds like bags of fun...!
Ok, If the hissing you hear is 'from the exhaust silencer' (the tank) then yes that does point at the diaphragm (again) of course. And what happens (overnight ?) if you pull out the EAS relay (under seat) and inhibit the sysyem/compressor ?
I was given a valve block that had been rebuilt but still leaked out of the exhaust silencer. Turned out that the diaphragm was fractionally thinner than another (worn) one that I had laying around. Replaced it again with a different one and all was fine.
OK, Thanks!
The block I rebuilt was an unknown one I acquired along the way from somewhere.
So, if the diaphragm is dodgy, it will allow air from the tank to escape through the exhaust?
I was trying to figure out the path it was taking.
Are the NRV's involved at all in this scenario?
I do have a very nice supple disc here I will use.
davew wrote:
Bolt: Sounds like bags of fun...!
Ok, If the hissing you hear is 'from the exhaust silencer' (the tank) then yes that does point at the diaphragm (again) of course. And what happens (overnight ?) if you pull out the EAS relay (under seat) and inhibit the sysyem/compressor ?
Dave,
with the relay removed (4 pin in it's place) The 4 corners stay up as expected.
Tank empties overnight.
It stopped raining, so it's block out today and new diaphragm.
If you look at the diagram in RAVE (or the EAS SID), for the reservoir to drain it also needs NRV1 to be leaking.
I was using Paul's diagrams as I can get them on my tablet, in the shed. I just worked out how to get Rave to
work on the tablet this morning.....
In any case, I pulled out the valve body and swapped the diaphragm for the spare I had. It was a bit of a loose fit
but looked good.
Installed, and aired it up using the Schrader valve I long ago replaced the drain plug in the tank with, and shop air supply.
Fired it up, and closed the doors awaiting the magic rise. It rose alright, The Left side came right up, the Right
side did nothing at all. After a minute, as the left side had not moved, it decided it must be high centered, so it activated the "Extra high" function. A VERY bad look!
Pulled the block again to see what I did wrong. All looked fine. Tried again, same thing. Cleaned all the connectors
Back in, same thing.
Figuring the only thing left was the driver pack, I swapped it for a spare.
It now stays up on all corners and the tank does not leak down overnight. (How cool is that!?)
I will try the pin tightening procedure on the pack I removed as that is a known fault 20+ years on.
Next time I have it on the bench, I will swap NRV1 as a preventative measure.
The positive take away from removing and replacing the valve body 6 times in an afternoon, is I can do it in about 5 minutes. Now, with luck, I will not need my newly acquired skills anytime soon.
Thanks!
Tom