I’ll upload more pictures soon but this was probably self inflicted. Front worn tyre + excessive vibration = snapped off.
Is this an easy DIY job where all I need is the propshaft alone? Reading online, they mention UJ etc.
If you get a propshaft it will come complete with the universal joints and flanges at each end. To put that amount of stress on it, I would suspect the viscous coupling in the transfer case is seized. That lives under the round cover on the front of the transfer case, where the front propshaft bolts on. Did the front tyres seems to skip across the road if you pulled away with the steering in full lock? That is a sure sign the VC is seized. In fact, if the VC is seized that is probably what caused the wear on the front tyres.
Gilbertd wrote:
If you get a propshaft it will come complete with the universal joints and flanges at each end. To put that amount of stress on it, I would suspect the viscous coupling in the transfer case is seized. That lives under the round cover on the front of the transfer case, where the front propshaft bolts on. Did the front tyres seems to skip across the road if you pulled away with the steering in full lock? That is a sure sign the VC is seized. In fact, if the VC is seized that is probably what caused the wear on the front tyres.
It's hard to say. When driving up the spiral car park entrance, I would hear chirping sounds as I drove at some speed. I assume this was the tyres rubbing on the floor.
When parked on an incline, facing down, I will hear a loud bang if I release the handbrake to shift into gear. It's tough to say.
I'm going to test if the VC has seized; however, upon reading online, the chirping when I go on a spiral road is a dead giveaway. Watching this video, it seems like an easy fix. I can remove what is left of the propshaft and make my way towards a rent-a-ramp. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUvwHoe2fMY
If all is well, is the propshaft a matter of bolts on either side? Straight fit and swap?
Yes, propshaft is simple enough, 4 bolts at each end. VC is fairly easily doable too. A bit tight with the crossmember in place and the hardest part is breaking the seal from the RTV. Easiest way, rather than trying to prise it off, is to knock it round so you twist it free.
Gilbertd wrote:
Yes, propshaft is simple enough, 4 bolts at each end. VC is fairly easily doable too. A bit tight with the crossmember in place and the hardest part is breaking the seal from the RTV. Easiest way, rather than trying to prise it off, is to knock it round so you twist it free.
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0e5OZvqSe3J-HAdLhufu0B0gw
I haven’t checked the VC yet, but the plan is to first get these bolts off. Awkward when there’s no ramp. Just figuring out what size spanner and socket I need.
14mm seems to fit, but is awkward. I may have to buy this tool.
https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/prop-shaft-bolt-tool/, which is ideal as my 14mm socket won’t stay put.
seems like the UJ decided to go, rest is intact. Would I have to take it apart to attach the UJ and if so, what socket but more importantly, how would I torque the bolts if I can’t access behind it?
https://share.icloud.com/photos/02al9n_nHUtKb0Yl-Q5hEezmw
14mm doesn't fit well as they aren't metric, they are 9/16th AF.
You don't use a socket to change a UJ, unless you want one to press the end cap in with it in your bench vice. In that case you just need one that fits.
The bolts on the flange can't turn as a flat on the head bears against the side of the output flange. Same at the other end, you only need access to the visible bolt head or nut, not both ends.
Definitely buy the 9/16" tool. Makes the job many times easier than fiddling with sockets. 14mm does not fit properly. I tried two different 9/16" sockets, neither of which were narrow enough, so bought the tool.
Pete12345 wrote:
Definitely buy the 9/16" tool. Makes the job many times easier than fiddling with sockets. 14mm does not fit properly. I tried two different 9/16" sockets, neither of which were narrow enough, so bought the tool.
Gilbertd wrote:
14mm doesn't fit well as they aren't metric, they are 9/16th AF.
You don't use a socket to change a UJ, unless you want one to press the end cap in with it in your bench vice. In that case you just need one that fits.
The bolts on the flange can't turn as a flat on the head bears against the side of the output flange. Same at the other end, you only need access to the visible bolt head or nut, not both ends.
Thanks both - so to confirm, I just need the tool to remove the bolt and do not need to hold the rear nut. There are two sizes 1/2 drive and 3/8. I'll be working on the floor - which size is ideal?
Pardon the ignorance. So the above tool covers the bolts that are in the front (https://share.icloud.com/photos/0e5OZvqSe3J-HAdLhufu0B0gw), but what about the other side - where the UJ joint has snapped? (https://share.icloud.com/photos/02al9n_nHUtKb0Yl-Q5hEezmw).
Examining a complete unit on eBay, it appears that a significant portion is missing. - https://ibb.co/kV2v6tPZ
If this is the case, I will simply purchase a new prop shaft and be done with it. What size bolt/tool would work on this?
Bought one (similar) some twenty or more years ago and it simply works. Recommend.
th.
The tool covers both the nuts and bolts, they are both 9/16th AF and will undo the fixings at the diff and transfer case ends. Either 1/2" or 3/8" drive depending on what size ratchet you have in your socket set.
You do need a complete propshaft. Your pictures show the UJ has broken off but none of them show the section that goes between the UJ and the sliding joint in the propshaft itself.
Gilbertd wrote:
The tool covers both the nuts and bolts, they are both 9/16th AF and will undo the fixings at the diff and transfer case ends. Either 1/2" or 3/8" drive depending on what size ratchet you have in your socket set.
You do need a complete propshaft. Your pictures show the UJ has broken off but none of them show the section that goes between the UJ and the sliding joint in the propshaft itself.
Thanks. I’ll order the 1/2 for better leverage / use my impact gun.
In the meantime, I’ll test if the VC has seized (jacking up one side and turning the wheel).
v8vroom wrote:
In the meantime, I’ll test if the VC has seized (jacking up one side and turning the wheel).
But without a front propshaft you have nothing connecting the wheel to the VC????
Gilbertd wrote:
v8vroom wrote:
In the meantime, I’ll test if the VC has seized (jacking up one side and turning the wheel).
But without a front propshaft you have nothing connecting the wheel to the VC????
Yeah lol, soon after I typed that I realised that doesn’t work. I’ll twist the flange connected to the VC and see if there’s some movement, unless that doesn’t work and you can suggest another option!
Jack the front of the car under the axle for access. Unbolt the prop flange from the VCU output flange. Then with rear wheels on ground & gearbox in neutral, use a suitable socket (cannot remember the size) on the VCU flange & long bar to turn the VCU. It should be stiff but will turn slowly.
{edit]. Look in RAVE with the RR Classic. Section 41, page 18 shows the VCU bench test. Similar turning force should work with the VCU in the car !!