While I was trying to get the air con working on my 1997 model I had the fuse/relay box loose and propped up at an angle to see underneath connections.
I had a wire I was experimenting with, it shouldn’t have been live, but may be it was and it touched the body metal and big spark, all happened so quickly … shouldn’t have been working so late in the day.

Turned ignition key on to find nothing working in instrument area and not all working in the centre console.

Next morning found a major fuse in the engine area fuse/relay box blown …. One of the 60amp ones only remember that as the plastic was dark and difficult to see without a light shining through it. So replaced it and all appeared to be back to normal in the cabin, I went on my way and finally got the air con working.

Sunday I went to go out for a drive, now with working air con. Started up and only now realized the ABS pump was not operating and the hand brake light remained on even when released. A very short drive and the light did not go out as it usually does.

So I am left with ABS, H/brake, TC lights on and no ABS pump operating.
The only check I have done is to prove there is 12v main supply to the pump.

O yes there is one other thing, no matter which section I look at in the Nanocom I get the same notation …..
“unable to start communication with” ( eg engine).

Once again I would appreciate any ideas as to where I can look.

Andrew

First step is probably to check all the other fuses. Then clean the diagnostic port as they often get water down there from the scuttle & cabin filters..

Check fuse 27 as that provides power to the ABS ECU, whie Maxi fuse 3 (the middle one) supplies the ABS pump.

Thanks for the reply.
Yes once again I failed to get all my facts in the post.
All fuses have been checked and the relays that are marked ABS in the main fuse box have been changed to ones known to be okay.
The diagnostic port I have changed for one from the spares car that I thought was okay, but maybe I should have purchased a new one and soldered that in place.

I haven't got rid of the connector in the left foot well, I think some items go through there from the diagnostic port.

Only EAS goes through the one behind the LHS kick panel so that won't affect any of the other systems. The ABS relay is a strange dual contact one that can handle the high current but IIRC the has a different in layout so can't be swapped with a standard relay.

Gilbertd thank you again.
Yes I noticed the different pin size so swapped it with the one on the parts car. On the bench 12v across 85/86 both relays I could be hear the contacts pull in.
Maxi fuse 3 live on both sides. RL17 pin 30 live. Ign on 2 RL17 pin86 live. RL17 pin 85 good earth.

Ign still on 2 at C184R, taken off the ABS sensor, pins 1 & 5 have good earth, pin 2 live (something to do with RL17 coil?), pin 3 live (something to do with ABS ECU ?)
pin 4 nothing. Connecting C184R back on to the sensor resulted in power at the + terminal to the pump and its earth was good.

I have tried the gentle tapping with a small hammer on the sensor and the pump motor, a suggestion I have seen on the net.

Prior to this problem, that I have caused, the brakes were excellent. Brake fluid just renewed and new brake pads. Pedal only had to be moved slightly down with little effort to provide very positive controlled braking.

Any Ideas on what I have done?