Hello All,
Replaced Spark Plugs & HT Leads in my RR and broke the plastic secondary air hose. Have re-coupled it together with heater hose section and electrical tape. That works for now but want it fixed.

Found an intact plastic secondary air hose on a 2000 RR in a breaker yard (the same RR as in another post where the doors were locked--now someone has removed the driver's door completely).

Problem is, the 2000 RR's hose, when connected to the air pump, would then stick almost straight up instead of angling towards the back of the engine to connect to the metal piping. I've thought about heating it up with a hair dryer to re-shape. It would break if forced the way it is. Any thoughts?
Thanks,

Unless you've got something inside the pipe, when you heat it to bend it will collapse for sure, you need something flexible, but also strong enough to be pushed through the pipe first, I'm a little confused as to which pipe it is you've broken..

If this is a hose that is part of the secondary air injection (SAI) system, it is only fitted to US market cars so we don't get it over here. My only experience with SAI systems is ripping it off cars that I've imported from the US and plugging the holes in the heads. From reading the description in RAVE (section 17, Emission Control, page 14), it appears that it only does anything on a cold start so as a temporary measure I can't see anything stopping you from simply plugging each end of the pipe where you've broken it. It might bring up a error code or two but from what I understand, US cars do that every time the wind changes direction.

Looking at the parts list, there appears to only be one part number for the pipe, the same for all cars after XA series VIN (1999) so no idea why you have found two different ones.

Found previous buffoon had bodged the IACV fitting after snapping it off the main inlet plastic pipe. JB Weld (the 24 hour setting stuff) has made a perfectly serviceable repair.

If the pipe is straight but needs to go round a corner, is it possible to cut it and put a bend in it? Or just join the two broken ends of your original pipe with a short piece of hose or a solid piece of pipe that will fit over the original and JB Weld it on?

Hello,
It's the black elbowed plastic "flexible" hose from the SAI Air Pump to Cross Tube (WAH100180). The elbow snaps on the Air Pump with a compression ring release.
Started rig after replacing sparks and HT leads. Ran smoothly except it was louder than it should be. My make-shift heater hose coupling to the plastic hose had come apart. I was stunned at how much air was coming out. This is while the car was running after startup. I will refit it with jubilee clamps unless I can bend the 2000 RR's.

I had thought about inserting a coathanger in it while I heated it up. Another hose is probably a better idea, No10Chris.

JB Weld is a good idea Orangebean. Used that on a cracked valve cover on my 08 BMW 528i and it has held up.

My 02 RR has not had all the electrical gremlins I've read about, Richard. Whoever scavenged (same person who tore off the door?) the 2000 RR in the breaker yard unbolted the Air Pump and moved it to the back corner of the engine bay with both hose ends still attached (the pump end and the cross tube end). That may have caused it to be misshapen. The configuration of the 2000 rig and mine are the same.

Could it be the elbow end swivels? It seems tight, like it is meant to be stationary. I haven't tried to turn it for fear of breaking it. I may get braver over time. A new one, possibly more pliant, can be had for c. $120-179. This seems like a lot of dinero. My wife would say they are "proud" of them.
Pretty day in Memphis. May take some chances today. Thanks for all of the responses.
Cheers!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Land-Rover-Ranger-Rover-P38-95-02-SAI-Secondary-Air-Hose-Pipe-WAH100180-/152208455784

Hello,
I had seen that eBay listing, but it is used. The breaker yard 2000 RR pipe is in as good a nick.

SOLVED: The elbow fitting will rotate! Once past the initial resistance, it turns--without brute force. The 2000's was off 90°. It's on my 02 rig now, oriented correctly, and works a treat. Thanks again for the input.

Vancer wrote:

My 02 RR has not had all the electrical gremlins I've read about, Richard.

I wasn't referring to electrical gremlins but the numerous fault codes and illuminating Check Engine lamp that US cars throw up. I've run mine with TPS, MAF, IAV, knock sensors and lambda sensors disconnected (not all at the same time obviously) and have never seen the Check Engine lamp. There's a lot of mentions in RAVE about certain faults bringing on the lamp but only on US spec cars, not on the others.

The SAI system is another thing that you get and we don't (along with post cat lambda sensors, we only have pre-cat ones). As I mentioned, it was fitted on a lot of UK built cars made for the US market (MG and Triumph particularly) where we take it off and blank off the holes in the cylinder heads. The MGs, using the BL B series engine also have a lower compression ratio while Jaguars have Stromberg carbs instead of SUs.

Hello again,
I do not tolerate Fault Codes well. The emissions stuff, I guess, you have to get used to having. Since the Oil Crisis of the 1970's, can't imagine a vehicle without it. Back then, I had a 1969 Buick Skylark convertible that got 12 mpg on the highway. 2002 RR gets about 14.6 mpg combined city/highway. Hoping my recent change of plugs and wires will improve on that. Drove the rig about 25 miles today and it did well with the swapped out Air Hose.

Richard, you have had rigs from America shipped to the United Kingdom?

Not Range Rovers, they are too new (and complex). It started about 6 or 7 years ago in conjunction with a couple of friends in France as they also drive on the right so LHD was ideal. One (the one who has just acquired a P38) was visiting his son who was working in LA and noticed that old 50's and 60's Yanks could be bought very cheaply. He called the other friend in France to ask how easy it would be to register a car from the US in France. It is impossible as the French insist on an EU Certificate of Conformity which none of them have as they are too old and the scheme didn't start until the early 90's (and the cars were never destined for the EU in the first place). So he phoned me and asked the same question. Here, all that is needed to register a car is that it passes our MoT test and the older the car, the less stringent the test. There is no emissions test, seatbelt check, etc at all for anything before a certain year and pre-1964 they can retain the white front, red rear indicators and not have to have them changed for amber ones. So, yes, no problem at all to register them here. So he bought a 1957 Lincoln and arranged for it to be shipped to the UK.

I picked it up from the docks a few weeks later, did enough to get it to pass the MoT test (in that case it needed two new track rod ends and the windscreen washers made to work) and registered it in the UK. With UK registration it is fairly straightforward to transfer to French registration or any other EU country for that matter (at the moment, what will happen when we are no longer EU we don't know yet). He then flew over, bought a machine polisher and did what he does best (cosmetics) and drove it back to the south of France. Once there it was realised that it was worth over twice what he had paid for it so the business side of it started. His son would find the cars, ship them to me in the UK, I would get them through the MoT and registered, put them on a trailer behind the P38 and take them to France (which is how I came to be running a P38 in the first place). Once there they got the cosmetics done and were then sold to France, Germany, Holland, Monaco, Italy or wherever.

After about 8 or 9 big old Yanks, his son was offered a 1958 Austin Healey so we bought that and since then it has been all older European stuff like Healeys, E Type Jags, Triumph TRs, a couple of Volvo P1800s (rocketing in value over here but still cheap in the US) and an early SL Merc. There's also been a few Harleys and Triumph Bonnevilles just to fill a bit of container space. The old stuff is easy enough to work on, cars from the dry States don't have any rust but we learnt that nothing appears to be done properly in the US after buying a couple of 'fully restored' cars and finding they needed stripping totally and doing properly. Hence I wouldn't even consider buying something as complex as a P38 from the States. As well as everything else that that would need doing to a P38, everything that had already been done would need to be done again too!

It's all good fun, lets me play with old cars and gives me an excuse to do the odd 2,000 mile round trip with a few days in the South of France in the middle but it doesn't always go according to plan. In July last year I picked up a series 3, V12 E Type roadster from the docks. Got it MoT'd and registered here and then trailered it to France in the middle of August. It had the big ugly rubber bumpers replaced with European spec ones, given a good polish and was then advertised throughout Europe for sale. It was bought by a man that lives no more than 2 miles from me so in December I had to go down again to bring the thing back! It did more miles on a trailer behind my P38 in 5 months than it had under it's own power in the last 5 years.