I think so.... right way up definitely, flat tang towards you for pulling it back out?

Errm, the two sticky up bits are towards you, the flat bit goes in first (with the actual filter element on the top). They should slide in and curve as they go in and OEM ones actually click into place.

Blue box ones did too. I guess even they would find it hard to screw up a filter?
Mind you, I've just fitted Blue Box bonnet release cables (all I could get on a "need it yesterday" basis). Given the amount of faffing around it took to get the rubber grommet in the firewall in place, I hope they last a VERY long time.

" Gilbertd wrote:

...and OEM ones actually click into place.

Spent this evening removing the dash to get at the blend motors. Haven't done any testing on them yet, but there was one oddity.

The two flaps at the top nearest the gear selector have a square bar going through them which seems to transfer drive from the cogs on the side to the flaps themselves.

This bar was hanging out the side of the unit, at least a couple of inches out, presumably preventing those flaps from doing anything.

Humm, not having a lot of luck with this hevac problem. All three motors seem to be working, both off and on the car. Resistance between white and black/red for each motor appears to do what it's supposed to on a multimeter. The book icon was off for a bit, but came back on whilst testing.
I guess at this stage I need a fault code reader. Don't really want to start the head gasket work until this is sorted.

With the amount of work you need to do I suggest you get a dedicated one, though they cost more.
I've had a Hawkeye, sold it and bought a BBS Nano Evo which I'm very happy with, but other alternatives are available. Generic ones don't interface with a lot of the systems although are OK for reading fault codes and doing some instrumented running. All IMO of course.

mace wrote:

I guess at this stage I need a fault code reader.

Is there one that does everything (other than testbook which I imagine is either rarer than hens teeth and/or out of budget for mere mortals), or are they all much of a muchness?

Nanocom seems to be the one folks are most happy with unless you are uber-geek enough to need a faultmate. So thats probably the one to get.

I bought a Britpart Lynx expecting to need to look at her ladyships L322 as well as my P38. Big, big, big mistake. The blue box should have been a clue! Fair number of things it only does "sort of" as in just enough to tick spec sheet boxes but not enough to be really useful. Various upgrades promised on initial release have never materialised. No way I can find of getting tech support or questions answered. Runs dog slow on my Toughbook. Publicity blurb seeks to give the impression that its directly derived from the official Testbook as being made by the "same" company Omnitec. Some more detailed digging suggests that Omnitec now isn't the same company as Omnitec then, a takeover or two in the way, and that they don't have rights to or proper access to the official Land Rover Testbook code. Even for what it does it doesn't run as well as Testbook. After P38 experience theres no way on earth I'd risk hooking it up to herselfs L322. I like life!

Hawkeye also runs Omnitec code but in a stand-alone box so probably no better.

Clive

Had Lynx for all of a day, sent it back, bought a nanocom.

Blackbox solutions Nanocom Evolution, to give the Nano it's full title is about as close as you can get to Testbook. It will do the engine, gearbox, ABS, SRS, EAS, HEVAC and BeCM. The price you pay (currently £365 as Blackbox Solutions, while run by an Englishman, is based in Cyprus so the price has gone up with the fall in the value of the pound) gives you a choice of either GEMS (which you have), Thor or diesel but if you ever upgrade, from GEMS to Thor for instance, you just buy the licence (another £51) for the additional engine. All other features are the same so a GEMS Nano will still work with the other systems on a Thor or diesel it just won't communicate with the engine.

Not sure which it is, the Lynx I think, is cheaper (but going on Clive's comments above, not as good) but is VIN locked so will only work on one car unlike the Nano that will work on any P38.

Sloth is smarter than me for sure!

Lynx isn't VIN locked either. Just model locked so mine does all P38 both GEMS and Thor for the one licence. It is cheaper than nanocom, but not after buying the computer, and I thought larger screen would be nicer too. Up to there with it after it dumped mine on the bump stops and couldn't get it off. Had to make a cable and use Mr Storeys' EAS unlock software to sort that one. That said the bits that work actually do function quite well, albeit in an incredibly cumbersome way, so its not completely bad. Logic says E-Bay it and get something better but I'd feel bad about selling on something so flawed. Bottom line is they sold version 2 (fine in lab if you know what you are doing, mostly) but version 4 would have been the first ready for market one that any normally mechanic savvy person could use! Doesn't look like there ever will be a version 3 let alone 4 tho'.

Clive

Yeah- I thought about that for a couple of minutes when I sold my Hawkeye on the bay to partly finance the Nano, then put it on!
Just described its condition (virtually unused!) and linked to manufacturers website for details of what it was alleged to do, and to be fair, mostly did, after a fashion

Clive603 wrote:

Logic says E-Bay it and get something better but I'd feel bad about selling on something so flawed.

Nano it is then.

Went over to the very helpful Mr Hallworth today to get the hevac codes read.

Although we could see (and confirm on the screen) that the blend motors were going full travel, both temperature blend motors were giving circuit faults. I'll have to recheck the feedback circuits on them.

One curiosity. We were unable to talk to the gems ecu with his testbook. Anyone seen that happen before?

Got the nano, but it doesn't seem to be able to talk to the GEMS ECU. My OBDLink MX Bluetooth adapter is able to have a rudimentary conversation with the ECU, which suggests it's there and talking, but the nano isn't working. Suggestions on a postcard, preferably not from Cyprus..

Mr BBS himself is registered on here so is likely to pop up with some advice. You have registered it with the unlock codes I assume?

Yeah all registered. Gordon was just over, and on his, we can talk to GEMS, but talking to EAS is ropey at best. EAS on mine seems OK.

Time to have a good look at the OBD connections, pins and also C102 connections, pins (18pin white) behind RH footwell trim panel. Wouldn't hurt to clean the main ECU connections/ pins. The kick panel ones especially seem to suffer from corrosion- plenum leaks etc

Good call orangebean. After careful perusal of rave, cleaning of all connectors between ECM and OBD2 connector commenced.

I looked at the two connectors helpfully positioned right below the coolant expansion tank, and thought some version of "what delightfully intelligent chap positioned those there".

Sure enough, disconnecting C106 (the 13 pin one which carries the ECM to OBD2 connection), I am greeted by corrosion in the lower half, to the point where pin 9 of the plug has remained seated in it's partner, Argonaut octopus style.

No prizes for guessing what pin 9 does.

Guess I need to salvage a plug/connector pair from somewhere then, unless it's possible to buy these connectors/plugs/pins?

Either that or just solder the wires together and heat shrink

With glue-lined heatshrink, for the best chance of keeping future coolant spillages/other water out :)