And you're welcome in my bar anytime, so long as you like wine !
I think the fact that every time I go down there I call in at Carrefour Antibes and bung at least a couple of cases in the boot to bring back would confirm I do. It has to be French though, none of this new world fake stuff (except for Bulgarian Merlot which we drank by the gallon at my brothers wedding in Sofia). In fact the rather nice Chablis we had with our Christmas dinner had travelled from Antibes.....
It does confirm you do indeed love wine, so access will be granted to you.
Back to the issue at hand though, I'm starting to think the following:
-before I disconnected the LPG wires from the 02s' signal wires, I never had a voltage above 0.1. Now as you can see it technically can go up to. 6V which leads me to that conclusion :
The LPG did mess up the signal, and now everything is working as it should. However, the plugs being foul on bank B, some air is not burnt etc... Leading to a lean condition seen by the sensor and gas in the exhaust. As well as poor performance and a bit of a shake at idle..
Thoughts?
Shake at idle could be down to it idling on 7 which would cause the problem in the first place. Do you get any P030x fault codes logged? If you do that will tell you which cylinder is misfiring. If not, while idling get your rubber gloves and a big insulated pair of pliers out and try pulling an HT lead one at a time (at least bank B is easier to get at). The one you can pull off without the idle changing is the one that isn't firing. If you put your nice new plugs in, then you've got a good baseline to start from. If you can still pull a pluglead off without the idle changing you at looking at the HT lead then. The ignition coils are paired so if one of them had failed, you'd have 2 cylinders not firing (one on each bank).
It might be that you have cured the problem and the adaptive values need to be reset (setting the long and short trims back to zero) so until that happens it is still going to run rough. If you don't have a method of resetting them (Nanocom, Faultmate, Lynx, etc), the only thing you can do is drive it and let them reset themselves. You will be looking to see the Bank B lambda sensor going fully rich (1V or at least higher than 0.5V) and the short term trim on bank B going permanently negative as it tries to lean the mixture off. If the short term trim is permanently negative, the long term trim will start to drift down to get it back where it should be.
At least you live in a civilised country though https://eandt.theiet.org/content/articles/2017/01/paris-bans-old-polluting-diesel-cars/
Gilbertd wrote:
At least you live in a civilised country though https://eandt.theiet.org/content/articles/2017/01/paris-bans-old-polluting-diesel-cars/
Nothing new, Utrecht, Rotterdam, Amsterdam.
Once you enter the citycentre your plate is scanned and 50 meters further a big sign tells you wether you're welcome or not.
Gilbertd wrote:
Shake at idle could be down to it idling on 7 which would cause the problem in the first place. Do you get any P030x fault codes logged? If you do that will tell you which cylinder is misfiring. If not, while idling get your rubber gloves and a big insulated pair of pliers out and try pulling an HT lead one at a time (at least bank B is easier to get at). The one you can pull off without the idle changing is the one that isn't firing. If you put your nice new plugs in, then you've got a good baseline to start from. If you can still pull a pluglead off without the idle changing you at looking at the HT lead then. The ignition coils are paired so if one of them had failed, you'd have 2 cylinders not firing (one on each bank).
It might be that you have cured the problem and the adaptive values need to be reset (setting the long and short trims back to zero) so until that happens it is still going to run rough. If you don't have a method of resetting them (Nanocom, Faultmate, Lynx, etc), the only thing you can do is drive it and let them reset themselves. You will be looking to see the Bank B lambda sensor going fully rich (1V or at least higher than 0.5V) and the short term trim on bank B going permanently negative as it tries to lean the mixture off. If the short term trim is permanently negative, the long term trim will start to drift down to get it back where it should be.
At least you live in a civilised country though https://eandt.theiet.org/content/articles/2017/01/paris-bans-old-polluting-diesel-cars/
Hi !
No P030x codes. Only Bank B too lean. And sometimes P0150 stoichiometric ratio outside operating band
I can get my hands on a nancom to reset the values. However, without a nanocom or else, how long does it take for the values to readapt ?
Do I have to carry out all drive cycles and that's it ?
I thought about the coils initially, but with a friend's nanocom we didn't see any misfires...
Leads, why not. They're only a year old, but I did have a heating incident this summer, air in cooling system and boom bubbling on the highway...Leads could have been damaged ...plugs too maybe...
The loss of performance, both on petrol AND LPG is pointing towards the plugs I think...
I think I'll put in the new plugs, drive, and check the voltages...
Yeah they're funny with their new badge system. 0 is hydrogen and 100% electric, 1 is hybrids, LPG, 2014+petrol. And so on until 5 pre 200x diesels... Funny thing is my overfueling bird killing 7MPG LPG equipped P38 is rated 1 !
Mine is definitely a bit smoother and has more poke with new plugs, gapped to 0.7mm.
gordonjcp wrote:
Mine is definitely a bit smoother and has more poke with new plugs, gapped to 0.7mm.
love the CX ! Great car !!
Oi!
Fiddled with spark plugs today.
1st:
Put current bank A plugs (looking good) on bank B (fouled and black). And 4 new iridium on bank A.
No changes. Voltage irresistibly goes down to 0 on bank B. Mixture still seen super lean.
2nd : put the other 4 iridium plugs on bank B
No changes....
It's starting to seriously piss me off.. 😀!
If you've got access to a Nanocom, I'd be inclined to reset the adaptive values and see how it runs immediately after that has been done. If you've still got the uneven idle it cold still be idling on 7 so giving the false lean mixture readings.
If you can wait, I've got a journey coming up that will give me the chance to drop into your bar on the way through but that won't be until the middle of May......
Ha !
It'll be a pleasure to meet you!
Hopefully it'll be ready before may... I can't wait to have it back on the road. I fixed everything else that was wrong with it : dead cats, rusted silencers, put on a glass pack, new maf, eas drivebox, steering pump leaking, viscous fan not working, swapped ugly 16s for 18 hurricanes, down to installing foot lamps and missing puddle lamps...and replacing all lights by LED's (cheap and looking really good).
So thanks a lot for the offer, we'll definitely meet, but for my sanity I honestly wish I won't need your help eheheh!!
Alright, some news !
Well no news really, haven't had a lot of time to fiddle with the beast...
However, I did manage to test my ignition system....Please take a look at this video I made (watch it at 60fps) and tell me what you think....
cheers
Watching it slowed down and counting the pulses, either your flashers aren't showing every pulse or there's odd ones that miss a beat now and then, they aren't completely regular. Unlikely to be a coil as that would give the same symptoms on the other bank. HT leads would be the next place to look, particularly with it idling in the dark and see if there is any arcing anywhere. Or just give it a new set.
Hi Gilbertd,
Yes I did the same, slowed it down and counted. However, a flash lasts 2 millisecond, and at 60 fps, it means a frame is taken every 16 milliseconds...so it's possible we can't see the flashes but they're actually there... And if you look closely frame by frame, on a flasher that appears to be off, you can actually see a red glare around it...maybe indicating that the flash did happen 1 millisecond before, or 1 after...and the camera missed it...
On the other hand, when I was in front of the car, looking at the flashers, I did notice some blanks in the flashing...pretty muck like in the video.
I did a video on bank A, and it kinda looks like it's doing the same thing...see what you think Video
However, quick question; I noticed my car goes into closed circuit after the coolant reaches 94°C...and not before. During that time, no petrol smell, and only condensation out the tail pipe. No fuel. Almost an eco friendly rover...
And I also read in the Rave, that the sensors are ready to go (heated enough) after 30 seconds from a cold start.
Therefore my car should switch from open loop to closed circuit 30 seconds after a cold start.. It does not...
Zeroing in on the problem ?
So I unscrewed the sensor, let it hang under the car and turned on the ignition... Stayed cold on the touch for as long as I tested, 2 minutes.
Maybe this test should be carried out with the engine actually running ? Using an old sensor fitted in but not plugged in just to cover the hole...
Cheeeers
Not sure why it's staying in open loop until it is fully up to temperature unless it is detecting that there's nothing from the lambda sensor. When it open loop it will be running on a default fuel map so not applying any long or short trim corrections. Once it does go closed loop then it applies corrections that it has stored from the last time it was run. The lambda sensors have built in heaters so they start giving an output as soon as they are up to temperature but will still get up to temperature by being heated by the exhaust gases, the heaters are just there to speed things up. A lot of cars use single and two wire sensors that don't have heaters. Did you ever swap them side to side to see if the problem moves as it certainly sounds like you have a dead sensor there.
Yep, problem doesn't change side.....
If you've swapped the sensors over and the problem stays with bank B then you've got a problem on bank B or in the wiring to the lambda sensor. If you can power it and it doesn't get hot, then that suggests wiring. Might be worth taking the other one out and seeing if that gets hot? I only say that as the heater circuit is provided with ignition switched volts on one side but the other side is grounded via the ECU so maybe it doesn't ground it until the engine is running. You could certainly try plugging the hole in the manifold with a spare lambda sensor and seeing how it runs like that and if the lambda sensor does actually get hot.
Well, I've tested the wiring with a mate. From connector (sensor) to connector (ECU). Nothing is grounded, all the wires have continuity, everything is good.
Then as I said, I unscrewed the sensor, but left it plugged in. Turned on the ignition, it didn't get hot.
Next test will be to unscrew the sensor leaving it plugged in, plugging the hole with an old sensor and turning on the engine.
If it does not get hot within 40 seconds, since the sensors are new and the wiring is OK, then the ecu is #(@/%&
If it does get hot, then I'm thinking either the ignition leads or a leak in the exhaust manifold..
Mmmhhhh
Leak in the exhaust manifold you'd hear and it didn't sound like it had one on the video. You can at least check you've got ignition switched 12V arriving at the sensor connector.
Have a look at the last post in this thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/203?page=3. Is it possible you've done something similar? Don't forget that Ray is in Canada so has a US spec car where the Check Engine light comes on at the slightest hint of a problem where ours ignore most problems so you won't get it on yours.