Nope, best I can do is a Vernier caliper. Frankly if they're not flapping about like a proverbial in a whatnot I'd just lap them in and see if they seal a bit better. "Good rattling fit" I think is the term :-)
The cut down version of RAVE on the landrover resource site (and the same one that Gordon is hosting on here) covers all models but I have a feeling that the engine overhaul sections may be missing. It's also published by Land Rover of North America so concentrates on the LHD versions rather than real ones. However, the full UK version comes on a CD and only covers P38, L322 and Defender and that's the one I use. For everyone's benefit, I've just uploaded an iso image of the CD to https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc . It'll need burning to a disc (or a virtual drive creating) but once burned to a disc I've copied it to my hard drive and have installed it from there so it runs off the hard drive and not a disc.
Thank you Richard. I've got a few different .pdf's that sometimes complement eachother (like the ETM files).
It's good to have it all in one file.
Heads back from machine shop, valves are back in the first one, will try and do the second one today.
Another boring update. Loaded with $child germs so struggling to make huge amounts of progress around the day job.
Have put the new plugs in the first head and set it aside, ready for fitting later on this week.
Started on the second head, new valve stem seals are in, and have done a course lap of the valves. Gave up at that point as feeling too grotty to continue.
Earlier I finished cleaning up the innards of the rocker covers (and baffles), can now see relatively large amounts of bare metal. A big improvement over the 3+mm of thick black sludge that resided in there previously.
Have been cleaning the push rods, three are lovely and clean, the rest are still steeped in chemicals to try and loosen the gunk.
I'm pondering having the rocker arm assemblies apart and giving them a good clean through. At least some of the oil outlets on the arms are showing signs of the black gunk, so probably a prudent move.
Was thinking earlier I should probably fit the LPG nozzles and reducer (at least into the coolant circuit) before I finish fettling with the engine, so it doesn't need to come apart again.
Couple of random questions spring to mind for reassembly time..
Vacuum hose from vacuum pump to brake pedal. I've replaced the short bits with fuel hose, but the local place only stocks it in one metre lengths, and I'm not sure whether that will be too thick to fit through the firewall? Suggestions for where I can get something suitable that's long enough, without paying through the nose?
There's a hard plastic coolant pipe that runs across the engine bay back to the reservoir - it's split. I could bodge it back together, but can you buy these still, or is there a better option?
Assuming I put the LPG reducer in-line with the heater feed (is that a bad assumption?), which pipe is the feed to the heater (as opposed to the return)?
Ta.
Another thing to check on the rockers is to carefully look at the steel socket that the pushrod bares against. There was a batch of cars that had problems with the steel seat sinking into the alloy rocker. The affected VIN numbers are from early to late 98 but it isn't unknown on odd ones outside this range.
You can fit the LPG nozzles, attach a length of hose and plug the ends or just drill and tap the manifold and fit a short bolt to blank it off for now. At least then the manifold doesn't have to come off again, you just remove the bolt and put the nozzles in their place.
I replaced the tube from the throttle body heater to the header tank with a length of this stuff http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/silicone-hose-shop/performance-silicone-hoses/silicone-1-ply-radiator-heater-hose-up-to-30-metres.html, 8mm ID was the correct size if I remember correctly and also used a short bit for the other hose that goes from throttle body heater to the manifold. As it is thicker than the original rigid plastic pipe it is very close to the back of the serpentine belt if it follows the same path as the plastic one did so I've run it behind the alternator instead of in front of it. A thinner piece of the same stuff, or the non braided silicon hose like this http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/silicone-hose-shop/performance-silicone-hoses/vacuum-silicone-hoses.html which is actually intended as vacuum hose should be thin enough for the cruise control vacuum hoses.
I always advocate putting the reducer in series with the heater on a P38 where the heater is full flow. My Classic and P38 were both in parallel when I got them, the Classic would freeze the reducer and the P38 heater would drop to lukewarm at idle depending on which path offered the least resistance to the coolant. Changing to series plumbing cured both problems and got rid of a number of potential leak points. On a GEMS the heater hose layout means it can be done neatly too. The flow is the hose that comes from the inlet manifold so I've run that to the reducer(s), then reducer to heater matrix and left the return hoses as Mr LR intended. You'll need reducers due to the different hose sizes but try to get metal ones if you can as the plastic ones will go brittle eventually. Or you can make them up with 22-15mm plumbing reducers with 15-15 and 22-22mm straight joins on each end to give plenty of length for the hose to fit to and ensure a good seal.
Vacuum hose from vacuum pump to brake pedal. I've replaced the short bits with fuel hose, but the local place only stocks it in one metre lengths, and I'm not sure whether that will be too thick to fit through the firewall? Suggestions for where I can get something suitable that's long enough, without paying through the nose?
I find eBog a valuable source for stuff like that. In fact, due to being on the edge of the middle of nowhere I do most of my parts shopping etc online. Not sure of the internal diameter of the vac pipe, but as an example a quick search found 128 hits like this one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Samco-Silicone-5mm-ID-ORANGE-Vacuum-Tube-Air-Breather-Hose-For-Cars-Motorbike-/220826623694?
Nice lurid colour too! I'm sure you'll find something less garish if you dig.
Gilbertd wrote:
Another thing to check on the rockers is to carefully look at the steel socket that the pushrod bares against. There was a batch of cars that had problems with the steel seat sinking into the alloy rocker. The affected VIN numbers are from early to late 98 but it isn't unknown on odd ones outside this range.
I presume it's obvious to spot when this has happened? Couldn't find any pictures or references to this to see what I'm looking for. Quick eyeball of one of the rocker arm assemblies didn't shout at me though.
You can fit the LPG nozzles, attach a length of hose and plug the ends or just drill and tap the manifold and fit a short bolt to blank it off for now. At least then the manifold doesn't have to come off again, you just remove the bolt and put the nozzles in their place.
That reminds me, I'll need to figure out what size hole to drill or ask Lpgc what he sent me.
I always advocate putting the reducer in series with the heater on a P38 where the heater is full flow. My Classic and P38 were both in parallel when I got them, the Classic would freeze the reducer and the P38 heater would drop to lukewarm at idle depending on which path offered the least resistance to the coolant. Changing to series plumbing cured both problems and got rid of a number of potential leak points. On a GEMS the heater hose layout means it can be done neatly too. The flow is the hose that comes from the inlet manifold so I've run that to the reducer(s), then reducer to heater matrix and left the return hoses as Mr LR intended. You'll need reducers due to the different hose sizes but try to get metal ones if you can as the plastic ones will go brittle eventually. Or you can make them up with 22-15mm plumbing reducers with 15-15 and 22-22mm straight joins on each end to give plenty of length for the hose to fit to and ensure a good seal.
Ok cool that's along the same lines as my thinking.
Orangebean wrote:
Vacuum hose from vacuum pump to brake pedal. I've replaced the short bits with fuel hose, but the local place only stocks it in one metre lengths, and I'm not sure whether that will be too thick to fit through the firewall? Suggestions for where I can get something suitable that's long enough, without paying through the nose?
I find eBog a valuable source for stuff like that. In fact, due to being on the edge of the middle of nowhere I do most of my parts shopping etc online. Not sure of the internal diameter of the vac pipe, but as an example a quick search found 128 hits like this one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Samco-Silicone-5mm-ID-ORANGE-Vacuum-Tube-Air-Breather-Hose-For-Cars-Motorbike-/220826623694?
Nice lurid colour too! I'm sure you'll find something less garish if you dig.
Cheers ob. It is 5mm ID by the looks of things. Might have to rummage around the locals to see if I can get something before Saturday, even if that's two x 1m pipes joined.
Took the broken end off the brake pedal sensor, it felt fairly loose and there was no clip, is that normal?
Also need to do something about the connector that disintegrated on Gordon whilst taking engine bay apart..
mace wrote:
Also need to do something about the connector that disintegrated on Gordon whilst taking engine bay apart..
Mine has a cable tie around it.
What connectors do you need ? I have both a Thor and gems looms that I butcher for connectors,,
So, rocker arms.. take the split pins out and everything slides off smoothly aye? 8-[
no10chris wrote:
What connectors do you need ? I have both a Thor and gems looms that I butcher for connectors,,
Green two pin one, probably from somewhere around the front looking at the loom its attached to.
If you mean front of the engine, that would be the one that goes on the sensor for the temperature gauge.
Aye, front of engine.
Thoughts on the rocker arms?
The rockers shouldn't slop on the shafts and if any of the steel inserts have sunken it will be pretty obvious. If the rockers are tight and there's no wear on the shaft, then you don't have a problem. When you put them back together, make sure you get the shaft the right way up or it'll wear at a stupid rate.
Lets just say I had to use unreasonable force to remove the brackets. Rockers etc will need to see how they feel on reassembly.
Steel inserts, is that the rounded socket that the push rod engages with? I'd say they look sunken, but not knowing what unsunken is supposed to look like makes it difficult to judge.
That's the wee metal pads that press on the valves. I think a couple I looked at had a tiny mark on them but I don't know if it would be enough to care about.