So here we go, i have had the engine disabled message for two days now, i have tried every tatic possible from research to overcome it with no avail.

The fob never had any fault, light still flashes when you press the key fob, but will not open or lock the range. When i open it with the key all the doors open not just the drivers door. When i try to enter the eka code the indicators do not flash when entering a number in the open position.

Im on my last legs with it now, is there anybody in the coventry area who can come and help me and what sort of cost os the likely to incure.

Thanks in advance

Also I have a 99 P38

Also I have a 99 P38

You're getting there! Is it a diesel, GEMS or Thor?
What happened to bring on the engine disabled message? What were you doing? Was vehicle parked locked and did battery go flat or something? Exactly what is the Message Centre displaying?
You might find that the sidelight warning light on panel flashes rather than indicators. On re-reading your post is it only when you turn key anticlockwise that you don't get a response?
Give as much detailed info as you can as it'll help with diagnosis...

Its petrol, sorry you lost me at gems or thor haha. My wife had gotten out of the range to go into the shop but it woulfnt lock although the red led indicator was flashing on the fob, so she locked it with the key which i gather then activated the engine disabled, when she returned she had to use the key again. Upton turning the ignition the error reads engine disabled, press remote. Battery never went flat, its still parked outside the shop now. Side pights flash on a clockwise turn but not the anticlockwise turn. All the while there are no lights on the dash. I have been informed a nanocom will sort this and the eka code will not work as possible fault in the micros in the door handle on the anticlockwise turn? Thats where im at!

Gems has a big oblong on top of engine, Thor has a banana looking manifold.. my guess is it's a gems, as normally turning the key on the Thor will re immobilise

On a Thor you have an intake section at top centre of engine that looks like a bunch of bananas, on a GEMS it's a big rectangular box with 4.0 or 4.6 cast into it.
It sounds as if you may have a latch microswitch problem, in which case, assuming your BECM is version 36 (late one) you can input the EKA with a Nanocom Evo or similar as you've said above.
As an alternative you can replace the drivers door latch. Marty on here can supply them and is an invaluable source of latch and BECM information and repair.
http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=60
The version number of the BECM will be on the label on it.
So now you need someone with a Nano/ Faultmate or similar in the Coventry area or change your latch.

GEMS or Thor refers to which petrol engine as a 99 could be either. If the top of the engine has a rectangular plenum with 4.0 or 4.6 cast into it, it's GEMS, if the top of the engine looks like a big bunch of aluminium bananas, it's Thor. But, that is pretty much irrelevant as the problem is the same. It shouldn't have gone into Engine Disabled if it was locked with the key and then unlocked with the key again, locking with the key is how you lock the car without turning the internal ultrasonics on so the alarm doesn't go off if you've left your gundog in there. It is only if it is locked with the fob and unlocked with the key when it will go into disabled and need the EKA. Does unlocking with the key unlock all doors or just the drivers door? It may be that the fob has lost sync for some reason, have you tried re-syncing? Put the key in the lock, turn to unlock and hold it there, while holding it there, press and hold the unlock button on the fob until the LED flashes quickly (about 10 seconds). Then turn to lock, hold it there and press and hold the lock button. That should sync the fob to the car but if the lock/unlock microswitch is playing up, then it may not work. It also may not sync if you are in a disabled state, I know it won't if it is in alarmed state but not sure about disabled.

I was in Coventry at the weekend (yes, it was me that PM'd you on the other forum) and have a Nanocom but don't have any reason to go that way again in the next few days. Mine is for GEMS but I'm fairly sure that it will still work with the BeCM (Body Electrical Control Module, the bit that deals with this stuff) on any version, just not talk to the engine (can anyone confirm?).. If all else fails, as you can get into the car, you can enter the EKA code by taking the door card off and dobbing wires onto the correct pins in the plug to enter the EKA manually.

I Have tried eveything buddy, literally my only hope.now is that there is a hero near by that can come and sort it out.

Don't think we've got anyone on here near Coventry.
Maybe try posting all the details on LandyZone International Rescue
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/forum/landyzone-international-rescue.75/
Can't personally recommend as never tried it and don't frequent that forum, but looks like they've been able to help people out in rather stuck circumstances...

Where exactly is the vehicle?

I have to go out tomorrow to fix a a sync problem, and I might be able to make a long detour to come and have a look after I've done that - I just have to see how long etc it would take for me to get there.

I've got Nanocom etc to sort most of the issues out, and can tell you if there's an issue with the door latch etc aswell.

For reference for others with a Nanocom - yes you can read all ECU's other than the engine ecu on any vehicle. You can then additionally read the engine ECU for the type that you purchased. You can then also add other engine ecu licences to expand capability as required.

Its a 2 minute drive from the ricoh arena just off junction 3 of the m6. I would be forever greatful if you could!! How much do you charge for that sort of thing?

Beake Ave, Coventry CV6 2HQ this is its exact position currently

Mm, about 150mile round trip.. bit further than what I had expected...

I'll have a look at my logistics for tomorrow, as my other one is about 20 mile from home.. I'll drop you a message later if I can fit it in time-wise around what else I have to get done, as Google maps was showing it as being about 3hr round trip!

Ok thank you, could you let me know a price too?

Just looking at the diagram to find wire colours and realised that for the system to recognise clockwise turns of the key but not to recognise the anti-clockwise it would mean the CDL (Central Door Locking) microswitch isn't doing anything. But if that is the case, then the central locking wouldn't work, does it?

Also, if the CDL switch isn't changing state, then it would see all key turns as clockwise so should still flash the lights, just not be seeing the correct code. That's making me think it might be something as simple as slack in the linkage and the key turn is enough to lock the door but not quite enough to operate the switch. Could be worth checking that before Marty does a long round trip (although it will give him the opportunity to get some more miles on his new engine).

Works on an anti clockwise turn but not on a clockwise turn, sorry i think there may be some confusion here.

Makes no difference. One switch tells the BeCM you are turning the key, the other one tells it whether the car is locked or unlocked so it knows which way you are turning it. It can obviously see that you are turning the key as the lights flash when going one way, but if the CDL switch isn't operating it will think you are always turning it the same way.

Anti-clockwise is lock, so say the first turn to lock is 3, it would see 3 pulses from the key switch. If you then turn clockwise and the CDL switch isn't working, instead of seeing pulses the other way, it would see any further pulses as being more to lock. So the lights would still flash but the wrong code would be sent, it would just be a string of lock pulses rather than alternate lock, unlock, lock, etc.

That's why I say it could be as simple as slop in the linkage. No flashes when turning one way suggests that it isn't seeing you turn the key. Does this make sense?

If it's locking and unlocking the drivers door then the linkage is ok.. the CDL switch is operated internally in the latch as it locks/unlocks.

The key switch is operated by the mechanism which the rod from the barrel connects to, so if it's detecting the key turning one way, then that microswitch and mechanism is working too.

One thought... if the remote usually works, have you tried moving the vehicle (pushing it a few car lengths even) and then tried unlocking with the remote, or entering the EKA.. I've heard on some of them the RF interference causes the BECM to get confused and it won't listen to the EKA attempt, but move the vehicle to where there isn't RF interference and away it goes.

Yes i get what your saying, how would i go about taking it apart to check it? Ive only had it 2 months so im not too savvy with all this

When i bought it i was told the rf reciever had been changed as it was making the battery go flat. So i assume the problem with interference was no more?