That would be awesome! I am only 40 minutes or so from Versailles- and that is in not so wonderful traffic. What exactly would the nanocom do? You remember, I am still a rookie at the LR ways.
Yes, the Nanocom will do what you need it to.
Gilbertd - apparently the fobs aren't syncing up, so there must be issues with the RF somewhere... but as far as Nanocom is concerned, if you just go in and switch off the passive immobiliser, it should stop the need for the EKA when trying to unlock in the drivers door. Though, it might also be worth checking the drivers door latch microswitches in Nanocom (BECM->INPUTS->DOORS/LOCKING from memory) as it seems double strange that sometimes it needs the EKA but sometimes it doesn't, and sometimes it accepts the EKA and sometimes it doesn't.
When the BECM was here for unlocking about 6 months ago, I checked the fob codes against the fob that was sent, and they checked out against what was stored in the BECM - so everything should work as it was originally intended. Though I don't know what the mechanic who had the vehicle for so long has done to it in the meantime!
GilbertD - if you are still going to be in the area in early May, I am hoping you might be able to swing by with a nanocom. Still haven't heard from the guy in Versailles and not sure when I will be able to make it over that way. Super busy with work these days (and always).
You do realise that if you let Gilbert loose on your beastie, it is more than likely he will have it running like a dream by the time he has finished and then you'll a) have nothing to moan about and b) decide you don't want to trash it after all. As you can guess, he is my hero after sorting out my EAS when it wanted to play silly buggers all the time.
Thanks for the recommendation Shep, although in this case you could be wrong as Teri's car is a diesel and I know naff all about them (and have absolutely no desire to learn either). But, if it is anything other than the engine, I'll happily get stuck in. Yes, I will be over in May. I'm going to a anniversary/reunion at the Matra factory in Romorantin-Lanthenay the weekend of 13/14th May. We'll be leaving there on the Sunday and the plan is to head up to Versailles to drop in at RRHSG's bar for the evening. That will involve finding somewhere to stay that night but don't need to be in Calais for the ferry back until the Monday evening, so could easily call in on the way through.
I used to be Chairman of the Matra Enthusiasts Club UK and am acting as the official support vehicle. So far only one cheeky bugger has asked what is going to be used as the support vehicle for me.......
Just wondering if anyone knows what ALARM FAULT in the display means? I can't locate it in the Owner's Manual.
Usually means the ultrasonic sensor (the thing in the headlining above the LH B post) has failed. Pulling it out, unplugging it and plugging it back in to clean up the contacts is often all that is needed to cure it.
Hi guys can i just comment on the original topic of use of k seal.
I am involved in cars and customers cars and at times people come to me with a overheating issue or the kind water leaks etc that are untracable on some of the newer designs however the cars value may have dropped so low that it is no longer ecconomical to repair and i have used k seal with decent results to about 45 percent success its ok but still gritty which puts me off so now i use steel seal which is clear and only activated when it finds the leak.
I had a daewoo with a seriously heavy head gasket leak the water was actually dripping from the exhaust ! I poured a bottle in and after 30 minutes idle it cleared up with me amazed! Well thats not he best that was 3 years ago and 30,000 miles back so it worked.
I dont normally like these kind of things but wow it works steel seal over k seal any day for me ( please dont shoot me like the other day on a saab site i suggested an oil and were shot then !)
O and the car runs fine and you would never know....scary
Steel seal is Sodium Silicate with a dye in it to make it look worth the money. You an buy Sodium Silicate without the dye for a lot less http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140726670858. I agree with you, it does seem to work if the leak isn't too bad.
Yea i have heard that you can get a thing called water glass the same ?
It's the exact same stuff but without the fluorescent dye in it and about a quarter the price........
Gilbertd wrote:
I used to be Chairman of the Matra Enthusiasts Club UK and am acting as the official support vehicle. So far only one cheeky bugger has asked what is going to be used as the support vehicle for me.......
Are you attending in this one
or this one?
Gilbertd wrote:
It's the exact same stuff but without the fluorescent dye in it and about a quarter the price........
I've seen a few reports where using K Steel or other variants on the P38 where it happily seals up the bleed pipe hole back into expansion tank.
I might resort to using it if I was stranded miles from nowhere to get me to the recovery truck. Other than that, I'd just fix whatever was causing the leak in the first place. If I'm rebuilding a Stag (no idea why that springs to mind with coolant issues!) or something, finding evidence of sealant in the cooling system is a sign that I'm going to have to spend extra time finding out why it was put in in the first place.
I've used both K-seal and Steelseal (Stealseal) as an emergency measure (had it in for a month or so). The stuff works, and that's about it. Get rid of it a.s.a.p. and repair what causes the leak. (Indeed, relinered the block)
Speaking of blocking the bleed line up - I noticed a few days ago, my bleed line was no longer getting hot. Found a suitably sized drill bit, and by hand gave it a few turns until coolant started coming past the bit. Pulled the bit out and a lump of what looks like hylomar blue came out with it...
Very easy to block that port up!
Orangebean wrote:
I've seen a few reports where using K Steel or other variants on the P38 where it happily seals up the bleed pipe hole back into expansion tank.
It does. When I bought the SE (with a blown headgasket), the bleed pipe hole was clogged with the coppery deposits that K Seal leaves and the rest of the cooling system seemed to be filled with Steel Seal. Neither is going to do much when the blown gasket was between two cylinders though. I still managed to drive it home from West London on 6 cylinders.
Ferryman wrote:
Are you attending in this one
or this one?
Neither, I'm taking the P38 to use as a combined support vehicle and video camera platform. Never owned a series 1 Bagheera (even though the one pictured is the U8, a prototype that used a pair of 4 cylinder engines side by side linked by a Morse chain) but worked on lots, although I have owned 3 series 2 Bagheeras, an M530, a Rancho (but fitted with a 1600 engine and 5 speed box from something else in the Talbot range) and a 2.2 Murena. The Murena has been slumbering in my garage for the last 10 years as, after being used as my everyday car for over 20 years and 400,000 kms, it's a bit tired. I bought it in 1985 and took it off the road in 2007 when I bought something else to use as an everyday car, a Maserati Biturbo Spider....(I've never been one for sensible cars). Plan is to remove the well worn, 2.2 litre, single overhead cam, 4 cylinder engine and fit a VW 2.8 VR6 unit instead but that probably won't happen for at least a couple of years. Fortunately, the galvanised monocoque used on the Murena means it hasn't crumbled into a pile of rust like a Bagheera would have done.
The event is an open day at the factory and museum to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Rancho, the car that was the first 7 seat MPV. It's proposed replacement was turned down by Talbot as they didn't think it would sell only to be taken on by Renault and renamed the Espace. All the first and second generation Espaces were made by Matra but with Renault mechanicals and badges.
You do know your way around, I'm learning every day! The only French exotics I've ever driven was Renault Alpine, both the spartan A110 as the A310.