I've got 9 different versions of Stag software, no idea which one would be needed for the ISA2 though. But that would suggest it's readily available.
Gilbertd wrote:
I've got 9 different versions of Stag software, no idea which one would be needed for the ISA2 though. But that would suggest it's readily available.
Looks like the software is the easier to sort - direct from stag @ http://www.ac.com.pl/download-center-Software
This one looks right to me - at least if the OP can get a lead then sorting software should be simple
AcGasSynchro v1.14.1.0 (STAG-200, STAG-300)
Controllers: STAG 300, STAG 200
SetupAcGasSynchro-1.14.1.0.exe (STAG-200, STAG-300)
BrianH wrote:
South Elmsall or WF9 2DS > http://www.lpgc.co.uk/
If its the crankshaft sensor I'd expect petrol to be affected as well?
Also added a note in to the previous post - you might want to check they will supply the software with the cable, not sure offhand how easy the stag software is to find.
Today i am sure i had some miss on petrol as well
So this simon is good and could solve my problems ? Is so after its been in thirsday (probobly longer ) i might have a run up ti him, she does run on gas just trim on the 1 bank rich and im wondering weather to just use it again as peteol i cant keep in it !
The only time I had a stutter, it was like the engine shutting off, then bam ! Back in, was like being kicked up the a#%^. Turned out to be the TPS. Fitted a genuine one and problem gone..
dazer2000 wrote:
So this simon is good and could solve my problems ? Is so after its been in thirsday (probobly longer ) i might have a run up ti him, she does run on gas just trim on the 1 bank rich and im wondering weather to just use it again as peteol i cant keep in it !
I think you'll find any of the guys on here will vouch for Simon lol just from reading his posts on here everyone seems to accept the guy knows his onions on LPG. He does have his own business installing it.
OldShep56 wrote:
dazer2000 wrote:
So this simon is good and could solve my problems ? Is so after its been in thirsday (probobly longer ) i might have a run up ti him, she does run on gas just trim on the 1 bank rich and im wondering weather to just use it again as peteol i cant keep in it !
I think you'll find any of the guys on here will vouch for Simon lol just from reading his posts on here everyone seems to accept the guy knows his onions on LPG. He does have his own business installing it.
I think i will take it in thursday to have the box looked at as i am sure its that at fault on the stutter and then book a weekened away and head up to him then, i have found in the past that a little effort can pay dividends.
Now im heading home this eveing 175 miles and dreading driving using petrol, she runs on gas so is it safe to drive her even though its rich on one bank ? Have had the gas smell from rear end since i have had her and on the journey up here ran on gas and 175 miles £42 at 63p per litre which seems about right as for usage would you all agree ?
It's definitely running rich. £42 at 63p a litre works out a 66 litres, on a run I'd expect to get somewhere between 210 and 230 miles on that amount. Like I said before, running rich is safe, it's running lean you need to worry about so you should be OK to drive it home. As already mentioned, it could be a TPS problem and they are cheap and easy to change, crank position sensor is unlikely as that usually just stops the engine from running at all. You've got two, probably unrelated, problems so get the stutter sorted first before thinking about getting the LPG side looked at. As you say, it's been running on gas for quite a while and it's only this new problem that has made you start to look into it.
Simon is a full time LPG installer who spends almost as much time sorting out problems on installs done by others as he does installing from scratch and definitely knows his stuff. If you look here http://www.lpgforum.co.uk/viewforum.php?f=27 you'll see a few of the more complex installations he's done recently.
Gilbertd wrote:
It's definitely running rich. £42 at 63p a litre works out a 66 litres, on a run I'd expect to get somewhere between 210 and 230 miles on that amount. Like I said before, running rich is safe, it's running lean you need to worry about so you should be OK to drive it home. As already mentioned, it could be a TPS problem and they are cheap and easy to change, crank position sensor is unlikely as that usually just stops the engine from running at all. You've got two, probably unrelated, problems so get the stutter sorted first before thinking about getting the LPG side looked at. As you say, it's been running on gas for quite a while and it's only this new problem that has made you start to look into it.
Simon is a full time LPG installer who spends almost as much time sorting out problems on installs done by others as he does installing from scratch and definitely knows his stuff. If you look here http://www.lpgforum.co.uk/viewforum.php?f=27 you'll see a few of the more complex installations he's done recently.
Well she deffo seems to run sweeter on petrol
Just been out tried her on both and petrol still seems the best, all injectors clicking when switched onto lpg just a low miss so i assume that the trims have never been done.
Love my old girl i trully do just want her to be rught i have her to tow the van so kids get a holiday or cant afford one, next is 28th of may so hope i have her fixed for then !
Im thinking of running on gas on the motorway home tonight i can always reset fuel trins via rsw when i get home tomorrow.
Im really starting to think its gearbox again, yesterday
dazer2000 wrote:
Gilbertd wrote:
It's definitely running rich. £42 at 63p a litre works out a 66 litres, on a run I'd expect to get somewhere between 210 and 230 miles on that amount. Like I said before, running rich is safe, it's running lean you need to worry about so you should be OK to drive it home. As already mentioned, it could be a TPS problem and they are cheap and easy to change, crank position sensor is unlikely as that usually just stops the engine from running at all. You've got two, probably unrelated, problems so get the stutter sorted first before thinking about getting the LPG side looked at. As you say, it's been running on gas for quite a while and it's only this new problem that has made you start to look into it.
Simon is a full time LPG installer who spends almost as much time sorting out problems on installs done by others as he does installing from scratch and definitely knows his stuff. If you look here http://www.lpgforum.co.uk/viewforum.php?f=27 you'll see a few of the more complex installations he's done recently.
Well she deffo seems to run sweeter on petrol
Just been out tried her on both and petrol still seems the best, all injectors clicking when switched onto lpg just a low miss so i assume that the trims have never been done.
Love my old girl i trully do just want her to be rught i have her to tow the van so kids get a holiday or cant afford one, next is 28th of may so hope i have her fixed for then !
Im thinking of running on gas on the motorway home tonight i can always reset fuel trins via rsw when i get home tomorrow.
I pulled the near side front sensor to make the air gap bigger so the system detected it and shut down....i take it with lights on dash the system would be inactive ? Am i right ?
With the now and then clonk on hard braking and acceleration could it be front diff and now making it stutter ? I just dont know what to think now im getting lost but sure i have 2 issues.
Did think crank shaft sensor would make it not run at all just wanted to confirm it for sure as so i can illiminate it.
If you've got a problem with the driveline, your first move would be to take a propshaft off and try it then. If it doesn't clonk with the front propshaft removed then you are looking at the front end and the same if you do it on the rear. A clonk on downshifts can be caused by the idle being high but I suspect it's going to be worse than that or you wouldn't really be too concerned.
Gilbertd wrote:
If you've got a problem with the driveline, your first move would be to take a propshaft off and try it then. If it doesn't clonk with the front propshaft removed then you are looking at the front end and the same if you do it on the rear. A clonk on downshifts can be caused by the idle being high but I suspect it's going to be worse than that or you wouldn't really be too concerned.
I think the clonk could be down to maybe play somewhere but the stutter and gearchange while smooth is my concern and can only link it to gearbox and after £1400 i think they can have a look !
I think your right as if i thought something else my cincern would not be so high.
Thinking of ordering a lead as so i am able to access the system may be usefull in the future, what one would it be if its not ABE ?
Thanks to those who've mentioned me above... Dazer, I'm the Simon mentioned.
Stag software I keep installed are V11, V10, V7, V2, V1 and Qbox V0.16, with those versions can connect to any Stag labelled sequential system (and Stag clones, and other systems that use an interface with compatible pinout). All of the later versions should connect to ISA2, would start with V11 and go back through the versions I listed if you have problems connecting but if you get to V7 on my list you might as well give up trying with the lead you're using.
This is one of the best Stag compatible interfaces (http://www.lpgshop.co.uk/ac-stag-usb-ftdi-diagnostic-interface/)
Simon
Lpgc wrote:
Thanks to those who've mentioned me above... Dazer, I'm the Simon mentioned.
Stag software I keep installed are V11, V10, V7, V2, V1 and Qbox V0.16, with those versions can connect to any Stag labelled sequential system (and Stag clones, and other systems that use an interface with compatible pinout). All of the later versions should connect to ISA2, would start with V11 and go back through the versions I listed if you have problems connecting but if you get to V7 on my list you might as well give up trying with the lead you're using.
This is one of the best Stag compatible interfaces (http://www.lpgshop.co.uk/ac-stag-usb-ftdi-diagnostic-interface/)
Simon
Hi mate thank you I will have a look, ran her back yesterday 175 miles on gas and the gearbox seems to drop out of lockup at 45 mph at times very easy and then stay locked up at 30 mph and has a mind of its own, more power on petrol but I think the torque convertor is having issues but its booked in for Thursday where they re conned it so fingers crossed.
If successful I might have a run up to you mate and get you to sort it, make a break out of it at the same time (means 3 kids missus and dog ! ) I just want her running as nice as she looks as she is a nice example and a shame seeing as all the things that I have done to her, worry is now when they did the recon took em 2 to 3 months ! so going away the end of May with the kids in caravan !
She ran on gas ok the same as she always has guess I am now aware that something on the gas side is pulling the trims on one bank down and running rich.
No probs mate, yes get in touch if you want to bring it in.
If you're going to download software from AC you should go for V11.2.0.7, it's the only PC version on Stag's site that should work with your system.
If this software connects it will probably ask if you want to update firmware, don't update firmware.
No point the installer giving LPGShop control over your PC if the problem was the physical connection between your PC and the LPG system lol. £90 to give the installer the opportunity to demonstrate their incompetence.
Simon
Thanks Simon much much much appreciated as to all that comment on here.
Today been into gearbox place that re-coned it and the conclusion is as follows
Gearbox fine !
They say that the transfer box has some play in it and that is what the noise is under heavy braking and the click where it jumps a tooth.................comments please ! I thought I would hear a constant noise if that were the case ???
One of the cats is blocked, I have the authority from someone to de-cat it for the time being to see if this cures the problem............perhaps that is why she is changing down out of lock up due to lack of torque ??? again comments
Anyway I have decided that I will de-cat it (sure she will be fine without cats ?) and go for a good used trans box what do you reckon on this idea ? and anyone have one they want to sell well looks like I need one !
I might just complete the rebuild of the entire car while I am at it lol
Transfer case chain stretch is fairly common and is usually the only problem you get with them. On hard acceleration it makes a noise like a machine gun under your feet as the chain jumps a tooth at a time. New chain isn't cheap (not if you get a good quality one anyway) but that and new oil seals are about all you need, they rarely fail in any other way.
As you are running on LPG you don't need the cats at all. BUT, a car that was originally fitted with cats that has had them taken off is an automatic MoT fail. My MoT tester takes the view that as the cats aren't needed for the emissions test then the removal of the cats can be considered as part of the LPG conversion. Others may not take the same view and insist that as it originally had them it needs to have them still. The other way is to take the cats off and using a long chisel and hammer, bash the guts out of them so it appears to have cats even though there is nothing in the boxes (as I've done on mine).
My MOT man takes the same view as yours LPG not required, I guess it makes sense that the cats could be choking her so here we go !
Do ya reckon a replacment trans box is best route ? is it normal trans oil for it ?
A complete replacement would have a warranty and would be the best way to go even at £700 for one from Ashcrofts, at least you'll know it's perfect then. The transfer box uses Dexron 3 the same as the auto gearbox but if the chain has stretched then it needs to come off anyway. Mine developed an evil vibration about 3 years ago and after doing things like prop UJs and the like, I figured the transfer box was the only thing left so bought one from a breaker to put in. It didn't cure the vibration but not long afterwards I booted it to change lanes a bit quick and got the crack as the chain jumped a tooth. Turned out the rear oil seal was leaking and filling the parking brake with ATF so the lack of lube had worn the chain. Swapped my original one back in and no problems. Vibration turned out to be a seized bearing in the rear diff which I'd ignored because I'd changed it not that long before (the downside of secondhand parts, they may have no more life in them than the ones you are taking out)..
RAVE tells you to disconnected the handbrake cable at the lever and to take the propshaft shield, gearchange cable and exhaust Y section off. I left them all in place and disconnected the handbrake cable at the drum end. It's tight but it will come out like that. You'll need some very long extensions and a universal joint to get at the top bolts. RAVE also tells you, but not until you get to the putting it back in section, to always replace the gearbox output shaft oil seal if the transfer box has been off. As I hadn't followed the taking it apart section I didn't bother reading the putting it back together bit so didn't. That resulted in it having to come out again to change the seal as I was coating the underside of the car in a liberal coat of ATF. It's a heavy old beast though and needs at least two of you to put it back (gravity does the job of getting it out).