Hello folks,

Is the EAS Pressure regulator/relief valve ever known to give problems?

My EAS doesn't hold pressure. It sags at the back and the pump is constantly kicking in and out.

It has four new airbags fitted and both pump and valve block have been rebuilt with overhaul kits.

It transpires that the kit I used was a rubbish one (orange seals) as proven by the number of leaks that have since been rectified by a universal O-ring kit from Lidls in the interim.

The soapy water check shows no evidence of leaks from the valve block or any of the pipe connections. The only connection I didn't get at to check was on the air tank.

I can hear air escaping from the valve block when I switch off. It's hard to tell but its definitely from underneath and I think from towards the front.

That's why I'm wondering if it could be the pressure regulator venting.

I will be ordering a decent rebuild kit at the end of the month as I didn't have anything suitable for the small inner o-rings on the valves which could explain the saggy rear. Can anyone point me in the direction of a known proven supplier of a proper reliable kit?

Regards,

Smiler.

hi.

Have you checked the air dryer? I had a leak from my valve block that i could hear. I changed the o-rings and collet and thought i was done. Car was still lop sided after being stood for an hour or so. I checked everything again and found that my air dryer was billowing out but i couldn't hear it. sorted it and car is champion now.

I checked the top connection satis but might have missed the bottom. I am convinced however that it is coming from the valve block as I can hear it there. It is only subtle but obviously loosing enough to effect the system.

My Bad!

Just re-read the post and you can hear that air is coming from valve block. Sorry. I've just got up. LOL

One thing i can add though is, as tempted as i was to get out the Lidl O rings, i ordered ones from landrover and there's a difference. Only a small one but the genuine ones are ever so slightly bigger.

If it's leaking from "around" the valve block, chances are it's the non-return valve from the tank that's bleeding air out. With the silencer off, stick your finger over the hole and see if it builds pressure.

Can't imagine that a pack of seals from Lidl are satisfactory. Tolerances in fitment are very close. I use one of these:
http://4x4airseals.com/product-category/landrover/rangeroverp38

I have recently re-sealed a valve block with my own concoction of specially ordered O-rings, which upon installing them seem to give a solid fit... I had a couple which I got the sizing wrong on, but the replacements have turned up, so going to finish reassembling the VB today, and look at installing it for testing at some point when I get a couple of minutes, once I've finished reconditioning a couple of compressors to swap over too...

Lidls seals were an interim measure.

My full kit from 4x4Airseals has arrived. Looks like my evening is set.

Right, valve block and pump rebuilt with the new kit. A much better fit! Desiccant replaced in the water extractor at the same time.
It was too late to fire her up last night so that was done this morning. System charged and when I went back out to it about ten minutes later she was stood high and proud.
Switched off, opened the EAS Pump cover and low and behold, the hissing is still there!
Whilst driving to work the pump was cutting in and out constantly.
I am going to try replacing the pressure relief valve. Even if it hasn't failed, maybe it has opened at some point and some crud from somewhere has got stuck in the seat holding it open slightly.

Is this with the silencer off? Put your finger over the silencer port. Air will be coming out because the NRVs are shot.

I've never heard of a pressure relief valve on one of the blocks to have gone faulty - but there's a first time for everything!

NRV's - it would have to be the tank one that's leaking for air to be escaping out of either the pressure relief valve or the exhaust silencer port, as that side of the VB is not pressurised when the compressor is off.

Right, I need a bit of clarification here.

I went out to it at lunchtime and found it sat in access position (I had parked it in normal driving position).
Got in, fired up and she stood up immediately, normal height within 6-8 seconds.

I drove to the local main stealers to check on price and availability of a PRV. I noticed that the pump was now only cutting in for short bursts and not as frequently.
At the main dealers I was informed (and shown the screen) that what I thought was a PRV is listed as a silencer.

It is the brass cylinder on the underside next to the pressure switch. Any clues?

If this is the exhaust silencer, what is the plastic screw in thing on the inboard rear quarter that looks like an airfilter?

Think I need to borrow the wifes laptop again, load up Rave and go through the schematics...

Ok...

On the EAS compressor there's a black plastic screw in thing, which is the inlet filter for the system.

On the valve block, as you look at it from the top, you have 5 solenoid caps - from back (closest windscreen) to front they are: Diaphragm Valve solenoid, Rear/Left air spring valve/solenoid, Front/Right air spring valve/solenoid, Inlet valve/solenoid, and then at the front, Exhaust valve/solenoid.

On the bottom of the valve block (again, back to the front) Rear/Right air spring valve/solenoid, Front/Left air spring valve/solenoid. You then have a brass pressure relief valve, and then at the front, the green pressure switch.

On the side of the valve block (facing into the vehicle) you have (from the back again) - at the top, 4mm pipe, which is the Diaphragm Valve vent, then towards the bottom, the exhaust silencer - this is either white (original/some aftermarket) or red (definitely aftermarket!). Under this, you have the 8mm air line, which is from the compressor and feeds to the air dryer unit.

In the middle section, you have the 4 air spring lines - which correlate to their Valves/Solenoids. In front of that, you have the 8mm air line, which is the return from the EAS dryer unit. Right at the front, you have the 6mm air line to the EAS tank.

If you have air coming out of the silencer, then you either have a leak on the NRV in the valve block that goes to the tank, and that's bleeding air back. If you have air coming out there when the compressor is running, then it implies there is a problem with either the diaphragm itself, or the valve/solenoid on top isn't powering up with the compressor, like it should be, so that it's dumping freshly compressed air out of the exhaust.

From what you've described though, I'd be imagining it's the NRV in the valve block not fully sealing.

Cheers.

Going from that post then there is no loss of air through the exhaust silencer (plastic item on the side, in my case a white one). I have unscrewed this as has been suggested and put my finger over the hole with no discernible build up of pressure or sound of escaping air on removing my finger.

I know sound can be hard to trace when it's in a plastic shoebox but it does seem to be emanating from the forward end which points to what you refer to as the PRV (which I also took it to be). So I am guessing that the dealers parts catalogue has it mislabeled. They are available at £28 +vat.

I will have one final check that it isn't just leaking around the threads first but it was assembled with a bit of blue hylomar smeared into the thread to make it air-tight.

Thinking about it, I could cut the finger from a disposable glove (making sure I'm not wearing it at the time) and ty-wrap it over the PRV. Then if it is leaking I'll be able to see the finger inflate.

Smiler.