Woo, picked up the short block from V8 developments today, very shiny. :)
Pictures, or it didn't happen :)
Of course, the shiny block means that you now have to spend ages cleaning everything that bolts to it. Can't hide a shiny block under grubby peripherals!
I'll get some once I figure out how to get it back out of the car. Meanwhile, Island 4x4 are ignoring my calls and emails about an order made a week ago, and I need to try and work out what oil to buy. Ray at V8 recommended Millers 20w50 Classic Oil, but looking at their website and others, there are a number of variations on that theme, some of which are eye wateringly expensive.
Does this stuff look like the business: Millers Oils Classic Pistoneeze 20w 50 Mineral Engine Oil
I've never had a response to an email from Island4x4, though I've usually been able to get through on the phone.
Not really impressed by the lack of response to emails - still got a water pump I'm waiting on them to warranty...
I see the order status has changed to dispatched as of this morning. We'll see I guess.
I've had an issue with Island and comms in the past. I tend to use LR Direct. Their dispatch is always speedy and their site offers more options for make of parts. Only drawback is having to know the part number you're looking for, but that's not too hard. Only time I've found Island considerably cheaper than anyone else is for genuine Dunlop suspension bags and (touch wood) I've never needed to buy them.
Doorbell just went, and.. Island delivery. Impressive given they only posted it a couple of hours ago ;-)
Right that means that I need to sort out what oil I'm putting in this thing rather more urgently then.
The first 1000 kms I've poured in cheapo 15W-40, after that this semi-synth:
Since it is a virtually new engine there is no need for 'classic' oils.
That can be useful when you have old hardened seals, but you have new ones.
Are you fitting a new cam/ followers Miah? If so you would benefit from a high detergent/ high zddp oil for "running in" (quaint old phrase) especially when bedding in a new cam. I guess if the engine's "tight" a 20/50 might be a benefit. The Millers one you linked to above would fit the bill, and if it's what Ray recommends then I'd go with that. That has the benefit of not giving him an out should there be any problems with rings bedding in etc (not that I think there would be- he does quality work)
Ray got back to me with the right name, this stuff: Millers classic sport 20w 50 semi synthetic engine oil
Ordered for delivery tomorrow.
That should be pretty much everything I need to get it making noise again.
Yeah new cam etc. Not much left of the bottom end now.
mace wrote:
Ray got back to me with the right name, this stuff: Millers classic sport 20w 50 semi synthetic engine oil
Blimey- at £50 ish for 6L it should be formulated from liquid platinum and come with a team of elves to lovingly massage it into the working parts of the motor!
Small price to pay compared to the cost of the motor though. Just hope your car doesn't get an appetite for it and refuse to be lubed by anything else :)
Yeah I know, it's a bit pricey.. Bought enough to do 3 oil changes with it, see how we get on.
Couple of pics..
That's it back in the car and loosely bolted to the gearbox. Gets it out of the rain and off the hoist.
Now that is a real beauty, congratulations! You even bought a new hoist to lift her it seems.
One remark, is it wise to hoist it by the two small bolts that hold the valleyseals?
Well that's how Ray lifted it, so I figured he probably knows better than I do. Lifted fine anyway.
Hoist wasn't bought for this job, but it is fairly new.
Well for that matter I disagree with Ray, those 1.5 cm deep threads are not intended to deal with the force.
With heads on you can use the lifting eyes, if heads not fitted you can use the old headbolts.
This is how I took out mine.
