I wouldn't advise anyone to use the DIY kits if the system wasn't already partially charged - for starters it wouldn't be worth it because you'd need a couple of bottles for a complete charge and that'd cost more than a pro's price, so I think with the air and moisture points factored in the pro method becomes a no brainer for anyone who's had a holed R132 system unless it'd be too inconvenient to visit a pro... but for a top up the bottles can work out cheaper and be more convenient, probably get a few top ups out of one bottle. In these parts Charlie Brown's (there's a chain of them) regas on a no improvement no fee basis, they measure before and after vent temps and if after temp isn't at least a degree colder you don't have to pay. I had a similar discussion to this with my son the other day, his old Mondeo's AC was working a bit but not nearly as well as it had last summer and he reckoned he could tell it wasn't dehumidifying the cabin, he decided to pay £45 for Charile Brown's to do it after considering that his system was probably holed for a long time until he fixed it (scrapyard compressor, condenser and dryer) last year, so a complete discharge and recharge might help clean any crap out of his system and swap some oil for new. However, I did charge the ML up from so low the clutch wouldn't engage using a DIY bottle because I bought the ML at the last minute before using it to go on holiday and didn't have time to visit Charlie Brown's.. One bottle got it working, though I knew one wouldn't be enough to properly fill it. Simple test before attempting to charge that'll at least tell if the system is attempting to hold pressure, see if there's any pressure in the system by depressing the valve on an AC port, easy test to see if the clutch is going to work is to wire it straight to battery, can then tell if the pump is seized or noisy... Only bits now without having had a rudimentary test are the pressure switches, heat sensors and control electronics.

I had the Granada with AC in 1990 when I was 19/20... Back then it was almost unheard of for cars to have aircon except for the likes of prestige stuff and Yank imports, maybe around 1% of mk2 Granadas will have had it. I knew the theory on how it worked but there was no internet, little info available on the subject, main dealers quoted ridiculous prices, indi-pros mostly worked on office AC and didn't know what parts the mk2 would have without 'Bring it in, we'll have a look and probably have to adapt a dryer and pipework to suit, you definitely need to change the dryer or it won't work', any part of at a silly price. I think a lot of people back then didn't know what AC was all about, the term could give the impression of clean air not necessarily cold air, even people who knew it cooled the car probably wouldn't have expected it to cool it by much unless they'd experienced it.. I remember it being an unknown to my mate until a few years later when he got in my AC'd Scorpio, then he said his next car would definitely have it. I wish I'd known a bit more about AC in 1990, especially that propane could substitute R12... Can picture myself rigging up something to try to purge the system of air, maybe bleeding lots of propane through the system while the engine bay, vehicle interior and all AC piping was hot... I would have thought that would just about cover it just leaving the filtering in question, but I'd have rather just trust the existing filter than fork out a few hundred quid in 1990 to change it, reckon filter would still filter even if the bit that takes up water was knackered? I'd probably take the same route today on an R12 system because few AC pros seem geared up to work on R12 these days?

I fixed an R132 system that had a corroded alloy pipe on a Pug306, was corroded by electrolysis where it attached to the metal front cross member and would have cost a fair bit of money and time to fit a new pipe because it was a long one that ran all the way through the bulkhead (dash out job). Fixed with a flexi pipe I had an hydraulics firm make up, proper AC fitting at one end to connect to the condensor but just a bare pipe at the other end with several J clips holding it onto the alloy pipe I'd cut short. Was still working 3 years later when I sold it without being recharged in that time.

Yeah. Except I live In the north east and today was cloudy and considerably colder. Didn't even use it today. Lol.

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

Well I'm glad you're all pleased that I fixed mine. :-)

Pleased already Chris, even more pleased it it's still working in a couple of weeks lol

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

Didn't even use it today. Lol.

How do you know? If you've got the system set on Auto, it'll use the AC even in the middle of winter to dehumidify rather than cool.

The Masser is pre-R134a so needs R12. I used to be able to get some stuff called Isceon MO49 which was a drop in replacement for R12 but it's like rocking horse manure these days in small quantities. This stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Duracool-12a-natural-organic-refrigerant-substitute-R12-R134a-6ozcan/251647591580 works (neighbour has a Mk2 Granada and we put some in that) so does Johnsens Freeze 12 which I used in my '93 Range Rover Classic.

Didn't have it set on auto and I had the a/c turned off (light on) Thats how I know.

Why, just out of interest? I always just leave mine on Auto, 20 degrees and AC on. Keeps me warm in the winter and cool in the summer no matter what temperature it is outside. I like the way that the fans speed up when the sun hits the solar sensor and slow down again when it is in the shade. Considering it's a system that dates back over 20 years, it works extremely well.

Suppose in the same way you'd turn a light off when you're not in the room. If you're not using it, you switch it off. If it's red hot in the car as it was for a couple of days, It's nice to blast the aircon and get an indoor arctic vibe going. If it's just normal weather, I don't need the a/c cutting in and out regulating the temperature for me. That's what the window is for. Save the planet from cfc's and save my wallet from the extra fuel.

A long journey would be different. But most days, I'm the taxi for the school run and dropping the Mrs off at work.

Ironically, the system is more likely to leak if its not used regularly (assuming, and I hope it does, the patch on the condenser holds), as the oil circulating keeps the o-ring seals from drying out. Had a couple of cars myself where this has been the case.

When I bought my 5 series a few years ago, the previous owner never used the A/C, and the gas had all escaped. Filled it up with refrigerant and UV dye and its been fine since. I wish the P38 A/C was as good - the BMW really will freeze your giblets off if you so wish!

I can't recall any noticeable increase in fuel consumption when I got mine working, unlike my first car - an 800cc Daewoo Matiz. If you were coasting in gear and turned the AC on, it was like tapping on the brakes lightly :) Poor gutless little thing. Needless to say, it was rarely used, and lost its gas.

Here's a really good reason to replace the receiver/ dryer. The bits you can't easily see. Mine is almost rusted through- from the outside!

Same as mine, just mine is green as it has been watercoloured ☺

Paint it, that'll stop the rust from the outside ;-) A sealed system, especially one that includes something to extract water from it's internal environment, isn't going to rust from the inside? But yeah, if the bit only costs £30odd quid change it. still dunno how much one for the mk2 would cost these days... and considering every bolt on the mk2's tend to seize up including those holding the AC system together I'm not sure I'd want to risk damaging a pipe etc which would then make it necessary to replace other hard to come by and expensive parts of the system.

I didn't know R12 and R134a were similar enough that a universal gas would be possible.