sorry. I have both imperial and metric sockets
I'll check the rocker cover bolts in the morning and get the relevant socket from my mate if need be. The new bolts I've bought are hex.
Thanks
I've got this one from Lidl, curious if the have them in UK too.
https://www.lidl-shop.nl/POWERFIX-Dopsleutelset/p100201670
Not exactly SnapOn but for rockercovers it will do.
Ferryman wrote:
I've got this one from Lidl, curious if the have them in UK too.
https://www.lidl-shop.nl/POWERFIX-Dopsleutelset/p100201670Not exactly SnapOn but for rockercovers it will do.
I shop at Lidl and Aldi all the time. Great for little tools and bits and bobs. They don't have them in at the moment though.
just reading through the rave destructions.
What size O-ring might it be for the inner coolant rail to inlet manifold?
Or can I get away without draining coolant and not removing the hose at all?
Basically, your looking at 8 & 10 mm bolts and nuts, 12 & 13 mm spanners for throttle / cruise cables, plenum is 10 mm to undo x6, there could be one bolt on side ( rh to car) holding coolant pipes. on the coil if still original there 8mm, there's 4, 2 at the top to plenum, bottom 2 either side.
The only coolant hoses you need to remove are the throttle body heater, a few small pegs you can plug them,
Edit, when you undo the top 2 bolts on the coil, you can carefully give it a lever back and you can remove the plenum, but I advise to try get them all out first, if you lock bonnet fully open it's much easier,, you pop struts off ( beware its heavy) when bonnet it back by the screen, look at inside of hinges, you see fold down clips it lock into
cheers.
Got manifold off. Looks like an oil leak on the underside. (top right of the picture) Would be left hand side as you look at the car. Is this a gasket? I don't have one and it's a bit late to get one now. Is it fixable with hylomar or such like?
Advice please.
Many thanks
Well, there's no oil inside there- in a perfect world it should just be air, but...
In real life, there's usually a bit of oil from the recirc system. If it's something coming out, as opposed to something spraying up from outside (only you can tell that- pics won't help) then the gaskets at both ends will need replacing. When I did mine I made gaskets for them as I tend to have gasket paper in the shop, but, assuming the faces are clean and flat you should be able to get away with a light coating of Hylosil or similar.
An air leak downstream of the MAF would be one potential cause of misfires/ rough running.
cheers.
I'll nip over to the motor factors now. There's also sealant between the manifold and the gasket (the orange stuff in the picture that looks like rust). This isn't required is it?
Shouldn't be, if gasket is new, but I usually give mine a very light spray of Blue Hylomar just for peace of mind as I've got a sandwich plate in there. Test fit gasket first 'cos the Shitpart ones don't usually fit nicely over the dowels and might need a touch of fettling.
thanks a lot. got some gasket sealant and paper.
I doubt if that has been a leak, being a Thor it is nearest to the oilfillercap (so it is righthandside of engine). Just a bit of spillage in the past and road dust does the rest. I should not worry too much. If you have a friendly friend with a garage ask him to bung the CO tester in the tail, that can often tell you if there is a vacuum leak.
oil looks fresh that's all. Had CO tester on at MOT. No probs there.
On another note, I've just been cleaning the injectors on my homemade rig. I knew that I probably had one dodgy one and I do. It's sticking open and letting fluid through without being clicked on and off with the battery. No probs as I bought 1 spare injector. The bad news is, there's 2 dodgy injectors doing the same thing. doh!!!!! Any ideas on a repair or am I up the creek???????
**Never mind. I've fixed it.
Another question. I'm sorry!!!!!
Regarding my new coil packs. The numbers are the opposite side. 1,2,3,4.
Do I put the HT leads back to match up where the would have been on the old coils? Or put them as whatever was in 1 on the old coil goes into 1 on the new coil?
I've got the rave diagram that shows how theyre meant to be. It's just the numbers on the coils that are throwing me off.
Heres the picture. If you look closely you can see the numbers are opposite. https://ibb.co/kZyzYQ
Ignore numbering on coil packs. Mine bore no relation to reality!
smashing.
I did think it should be as it says in Rave but I wanted to check. Be a right nuisance to get it wrong.
Thanks again. Your a star.
Todays finding were:
2 leaky injectors. Now fixed. No doubt the cause of the misfire so probably no need for coils or ignition leads. But have them now.
Rocker covers not even tightened. I thought the socket was spinning on the nuts to start with they were that loose.
Rocker gaskets were like trousers that had been on a washing line in icy weather.
Spark plugs were a bit eroded away.
What appears to be an oil leak from the intake manifold might be oil from the loose rockers.
Hopefully finish up tomorrow.
Job done and it runs!!!
RH rocker cover was a right nuisance without taking all of the plumbing out. Gasket kept falling off right at the last minute.
Next job is an EAS block rebuild and new suspension bushes going in on Thursday.
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
oil looks fresh that's all. Had CO tester on at MOT. No probs there.
On another note, I've just been cleaning the injectors on my homemade rig. I knew that I probably had one dodgy one and I do. It's sticking open and letting fluid through without being clicked on and off with the battery. No probs as I bought 1 spare injector. The bad news is, there's 2 dodgy injectors doing the same thing. doh!!!!! Any ideas on a repair or am I up the creek???????
**Never mind. I've fixed it.
I'm half wondering if i've got the same issue - your homemade rig if you still have it could you show a pic of it? I'm not sure if you can see the injectors once the top manifold is off to see if they are leaking or not.
Was I've fixed it meaning cleaning sorted it btw or something else?
Homemade rig chucked in the bin now. Only cost pennies. Video or the one I copied here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUUgR94drxg
Don't bother with a car battery. I just used a 9v square battery and it worked fine.
With manifold off, you can't see if an injector is leaking. You'll need to remove the whole fuel rail and injector assembly. Take each injector one by one and test. 2 of mine were letting fluid through before the battery was clicked on. I could even blow through them which means they were stuck open and leaking petrol in even when on lpg.
I really blasted the dodgy injectors with carb cleaner and let them sit for a few minutes. Then I clicked them on and off whilst spraying more cleaner through the rig. Got them freed off and they stopped letting fluid through when closed and I couldn't blow through anymore either. You'll see when it's clean cause it will spray through like a mist rather than like water through a shower head.
If you're doing it, check ohmage also. Should be 14.5 +/- 7 and you'll need a new seal kit. No point going all the way in and not changing them.
http://mrinjectoruk.co.uk/Bosch-0280155-0280156-injector-seal-kit-28-V8-P1501225.aspx
The kit includes new injector filters which i'm told most people don't bother with. However, I did but they're a pain in the arse to get out.
"I've fixed it" means I have indeed fixed it. (I hope) lol. I did coils, leads and spark plugs too. Reason being, I was on a mission to cure the fault so I just bought everything that it could possibly be. Didn't need the rest of the stuff as it turned out to be duff injectors but I fitted the rest of the gear anyway since i'd already bought it. Spark plugs had seen better days so i'm pleased I did them.
Hope some of that helps.