blueplasticsoulman wrote:

Homemade rig chucked in the bin now. Only cost pennies. Video or the one I copied here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUUgR94drxg

Don't bother with a car battery. I just used a 9v square battery and it worked fine.

With manifold off, you can't see if an injector is leaking. You'll need to remove the whole fuel rail and injector assembly. Take each injector one by one and test. 2 of mine were letting fluid through before the battery was clicked on. I could even blow through them which means they were stuck open and leaking petrol in even when on lpg.

I really blasted the dodgy injectors with carb cleaner and let them sit for a few minutes. Then I clicked them on and off whilst spraying more cleaner through the rig. Got them freed off and they stopped letting fluid through when closed and I couldn't blow through anymore either. You'll see when it's clean cause it will spray through like a mist rather than like water through a shower head.

If you're doing it, check ohmage also. Should be 14.5 +/- 7 and you'll need a new seal kit. No point going all the way in and not changing them.

http://mrinjectoruk.co.uk/Bosch-0280155-0280156-injector-seal-kit-28-V8-P1501225.aspx

The kit includes new injector filters which i'm told most people don't bother with. However, I did but they're a pain in the arse to get out.

"I've fixed it" means I have indeed fixed it. (I hope) lol. I did coils, leads and spark plugs too. Reason being, I was on a mission to cure the fault so I just bought everything that it could possibly be. Didn't need the rest of the stuff as it turned out to be duff injectors but I fitted the rest of the gear anyway since i'd already bought it. Spark plugs had seen better days so i'm pleased I did them.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BCPR6ES-8x-NGK-Spark-Plug/301246603193?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Hope some of that helps.

Some of it does yes thanks, I've had problems which I'd thought i'd fixed with crimping up the leads (which have only done about 2500 miles from the original replacement) which seemed to get rid of the problem for a few days, followed by the airflow sensor when problems returned (that was definitely faulty given the noticable difference on performance with a new Bosch one and the more normal fuel trims after swapping it) but the problem still persists of what feels a bit like a misfire around 2000 rpm once warmed up (fine when cold).

The manifold is coming off shortly to fit the lpg nozzles and do the wiring, so hopefully can look at that at the same time (or may discover the cause of the problem when already in there, as the car has been on lpg previously, some remenments of that install remained when i first got it, I think all of them are now gone though don't know what state any wiring repairs might be in for the original injector cuts)

I've ordered the seal kit already but hope it doesn't come to pulling the injectors out!

you checked for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the manifold whilst idling?

Mine always started up and then idled at just over a 1000rpm and then settled down after about 30 secs or so. Idles fine now I've sorted injector.

I checked and cleaned everything on the top looking for the cause. Also found that my butterfly was sticking open a bit but it wasn't that.

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

With manifold off, you can't see if an injector is leaking. You'll need to remove the whole fuel rail and injector assembly. Take each injector one by one and test. 2 of mine were letting fluid through before the battery was clicked on. I could even blow through them which means they were stuck open and leaking petrol in even when on lpg.

I really blasted the dodgy injectors with carb cleaner and let them sit for a few minutes. Then I clicked them on and off whilst spraying more cleaner through the rig. Got them freed off and they stopped letting fluid through when closed and I couldn't blow through anymore either. You'll see when it's clean cause it will spray through like a mist rather than like water through a shower head.
"I've fixed it" means I have indeed fixed it. (I hope) lol. I did coils, leads and spark plugs too. Reason being, I was on a mission to cure the fault so I just bought everything that it could possibly be. Didn't need the rest of the stuff as it turned out to be duff injectors but I fitted the rest of the gear anyway since i'd already bought it. Spark plugs had seen better days so i'm pleased I did them.

I've been off over the weekend due to my daughter's wedding so have just caught up... Nice one Chris, so we were right about leaky injectors!

Simon

Thought I'd better write this, just in case...
Be careful not to apply power to petrol injectors for too long if testing them with a battery. The ECU employs 'peak and hold' current to control injectors,i.e. the injectors might get 1ms of near 12v to provide fairly high current to get them to open but then a much lower current to keep them open. It doesn't take long to break an injector if powered by a constant high current (and given the inhumanly short timescales injectors pulse for, even a second or so is some ways like constant to an injector). Only connect power to test for a split second and leave plenty time between tests to prevent the test becoming the cause of a new problem. I've known injector coils get burned out during such tests and I've known a previously fully working injector to become stuck open even when it's coil hasn't been damaged when such tests have been done to check spray pattern.

Simon

I used a 9v square battery and just did short clicks.

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

I used a 9v square battery and just did short clicks.

Yeh, I wrote in case anyone else tests injectors, some might not realise and just connect injectors to a fuel pump and battery for a while when checking spray pattern etc.

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

you checked for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the manifold whilst idling?

Mine always started up and then idled at just over a 1000rpm and then settled down after about 30 secs or so. Idles fine now I've sorted injector.

I checked and cleaned everything on the top looking for the cause. Also found that my butterfly was sticking open a bit but it wasn't that.

Haven't had chance to do anything further as yet, but given that it now looks I might have to have a new radiator (not leaking, but started having high temp shown after driving through a load of long grass - had a look in the front and its full of grass seeds, but looks like the lower section is coated in oil as well as other crap, and appears to be buldging as well, need to get a proper look at it to tell for sure.).

I'll give the carb cleaner a try soon as i get chance.