Rebuilt the eas block today as it was lowering overnight.

Anyway, some butchery has previously been had and the exhaust valve had been glued but not very well. Long story short, I can't fix it. it's knackered. However, I thought i'd mended t enough to get me going. I've got a hiss somewhere and I cannot for the life of me pinpoint it.

Would the exhaust valve leak air if it's not screwed in right?

I'm at a complete loss. I was meticulous.

I've checked all external airlines and they're not leaking. I've sprayed the exhaust valve but theres nothing bubbling there neither.

Update. It's been standing for about 15 minutes on extended height while I chew the fat with myself.

The front is still up but both back sides are down.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-EAS-Valve-Block-with-Driver-/263069677046?
Be quick- it's cheap!

lmao. That's the easy way out. Sold anyway. However....

I took the pressure sensor off in order to do the block. I didn't have any nylock so I just ended up screwing it back in. It sounds like it could be coming from there. Would that be a good bet?

A bit of Hylomar or something on the threads would eliminate the sensor as a suspect. Thing is though, the sensor will be common to all corners ie if it's leaking, all air will be lost rather than just the rear 2. I'll have a look at the schematics for the pneumatics (that's a mouthful) when I have a moment
Worth a punt though.

got the block back off.

I agree that all air should be lost instead of just rear but at this moment in time, it's the only thing I can think that I scimpt on. I have no hylomar left. I've got ptfe tape though.

Is there a specific solenoid for the rears???

Here are the schematics so you can see what does what...

Thanks for that Mark.

It was the pressure sensor. I put ptfe on the threads and screwed it back in. Sorted!

I discounted my initial query of the exhaust silencer pretty quick by sticking my finger over the end. So the answer is "No. The exhaust doesn't hold pressure. It's open and closed from inside the block"

I'll need a new exhaust. This ones dropped to bits from someone else's bodge job. Seems to me it's only job is to deaden the sound of letting air out. Currently sounds like air brakes on a bus or lorry. £20 for a new one.

I'm not sure yet as I haven't been for a drive as i'd consumed a few beers with the neighbour by this point of tinkering but I think the compressor is still kicking in too often. Might have sorted the overnight dropping but may need to do the compressor seals too. If not that, ironically could it be the pressure sensor???

SOS!!!!!!

Suspensions gone mental. Just coming home from Aldi and it decided to put itself into extended ride height whilst driving. I knocked it back down to normal and it went down. Did it again a few minutes later and now it refuses to go back down. Light on dash says it's at extended height. Light on button says its at extended height. Press to go down to normal height and extended stays light whilst normal flashes. It doesn't go down. It vents a tiny bit but never gets back to normal height. The normal ride height stays flashing and eventually goes out only to leave extended ride height lit up.

On the plus side, it looks "mean as" driving around at extended but that's not a good idea.

No fault messages!!!

What's the score?

Been working perfect all day up til an hour ago.

Reset it, going to high is a sign of a soft fault.

To reset it, am I going to need some sort of tool or software that I don't have???????

So it's been stood 20 minutes. Read something on google about leaving it for a while and then trying again.

Just started it back up, pressed for access and it dumped all the air and went down.

Then I selected normal. It went up and compressor went off. Thought I was sorted.

Then the extended light illuminated and compressor kicked back in and off we went back up.

Still broken!!!!!

Right.

The exhaust pipe for the EAS. The one that I said had previously been bodged and I glued back together.

Took that off and inspected it and air is escaping through the black cap bit. I assume this is causing less resistance. I only have superglue to hand and it's not gap filling, so ive pushed some kitchen roll into the gap and soaked it with glue to harden and fill the gap. This seems to have worked and I can select all heights again. However, the glue is clearly rubbish and also probably can't handle the pressure of exhausting air so the repair keeps blowing out. I reckon this has to be the fault so i'm gonna have to sit tight until the new one I've ordered gets here.

Any probs driving on high ride height if I have to?

I was assuming you had a cable and the free RSW software, I wouldn't touch the EAS without them as if you do cock up you've no way of knowing what you did or resetting it to get yourself out of it. Cable is cheap enough and comes with a link to download the software http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Range-Rover-P38-Air-Suspension-Reset-Cable-Software-Eas-/162563682774 or you can download it from http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/component/content/article/82-uncategorised/53-range-rover-p38a-eas-unlock and follow these instructions and make your own cable http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/component/content/article/82-uncategorised/54-range-rover-p38a-eas-cable

Nope. No cable. Ordered it now though.

I hope i'm on the money though with my current diagnosis.

Got the cable and Got "EAS Unlock Software"

Somethings not working right.

Software communicates with eas. I can turn pumpon and off, change ride heights (which it does immediately)

but............

when I click "Faults" it seems to stumble and then the idle box goes red instead of green that says "good idle". and then communication is lost and it doesn't say FF anymore. Restart the software and it connects and I can do everything again. It's only reading faults that cause problems. I did seem to get it to work once. I clicked "Faults" the data stopped and then carried on with a "Good idle" green box but no faults appeared in the box. I click "Unlock EAS", click "Stop" and unplug cable. I start the car but its still not selecting ride heights properly. If I select access, the rear drops but the front stays up. Takes me a lot of pressing and faffing to manage to get it to go back to normal height. I know that the suspension is working properly as when I was in the software and clicked through the heights manually, it changed immediately as you would expect it too.

I didn't have any of these issues before I rebuilt the block which I know clearly points to an issue with me rebuilding the block. However, as I said, it works as it should doing it through the EAS software.

Does anyone have any suggestions or is there different software I can try?

Cheers mi dears.

Are you using the USB to serial adapter as that is usually what causes comms to drop, ideally you need a computer with a serial port but there aren't many of those about these days. The button marked Faults (the one that just looks like a box rather than a button) should clear any even if you haven't read them first. You'll probably need to click the Unlock EAS button, then Faults. Clicking on the Stop button and then shutting the program down is the proper way to exit it although I had a fault once that kept re-appearing if I did that. I found that if I just unplugged that cable, the fault stayed gone. It's got to be worth a try as RSW EASUnlock is the only stand alone software that exists, the only alternatives are A Nanocom, Faultmate, etc which cost considerably more.

ok. I will give that sequence a go.

I don't end up with any fault messages when driving so it is a bit strange. As I say, I didn't have any bother before other than the compressor kicked in a bit too much and there was a little drop to the side sometimes overnight. This is why I rebuilt the block. Now I've got bigger issues than when I flaming started. lol.

I can't see how it can be anything though as everything works fine when you run through the ride heights one by one in the software. Rises and falls pretty quick as it should.

I'll also see if I can find anyone with a pre-war computer that has a comms port.

Shame you're not coming to the Summer Camp, there's a geriatric Panasonic Toughbook (with a serial port) and EAS cable that live in my car.

I'll come next year if it's on. Or perhaps there'll be an Autumn camp?