I was fortunate enough to have another 4 spare scabby rims that I transferred the tyres too whilst I did this. I'd have never been able to do it with them on the car.
Tools required:
Degreaser
Wire wheel attachments for drill. (use an electric drill. You'll be at it some time)
Assortment of wet and dry sandpapers. (If the sandpaper clogs, put some soap on it. NOT liquid. lol. I mean an ordinary bar of soap)
3000 grit fine foam sanding
Ultra Fine finish scotch Brite pads
An airline (Handy to get rid of the dust, especially when you get on to paint and even more so for the lacquer)
A heat gun or hair dryer. (Heat your wheel up. I don't mean glowing, I mean room temperature. The paint will go on better)
I used 400ml rattle cans for paint. (Get 1 for each wheel. You can always take 1 back if it's not needed.)
2x500ml wheel lacquer (I used Autotek)
Etch primer. (This is the first thing you spray on. You need this as a base. It's different to normal primer as the acid eats into the metal and bonds)
Filler primer (For filling little holes and smoothing the surface. If you have a big ding or chunk missing, use proper filler for that)
Top tip. If you later get a chip in your wheel, whatever primer colour you've used will show through. Use dark for dark colours, and light for light colours. (My local shop only had yellow available and now I've got a little yellow mark on my otherwise grey wheel)
A bit of a HOW-TO if anyone would like it
Took a good 90 minutes to sand off and degrease each wheel but mine we pretty bad. Then a couple of misting's of etch primer and leave for 12 hours. Make sure you get the back edges of the spokes on the inner side or it will probably flake later. Next a few coats of filler primer leaving 15 minutes for it to flash off between coats. Then leave that 24 hours to dry before rubbing that down and apply more if needed. After your final primer coat, rub it over with the scotchbrite. Really important that your base is good or else the lacquer will highlight any imperfections by 1000%.lol. For the colour coats, build it up in light layers waiting 15 minutes between coats but without letting it dry too much. If you use a metallic paint, you can't rub down the colour coat. (non metallic you'd be fine). If you make a mistake or get a run, have to wait 24 hours, sand it out and start again.. It's a fine balance when putting the lacquer on and you need to keep a wet edge. Too light a coat and the finish wont be high gloss. Too heavy and it runs. Use the heat gun (not too close) to flash it quicker and stop any potential runs. If you've missed a bit, you can't go back and just spray that bit. You have to do it all in one go. Need to leave it for a few days to harden. I left mine a week to be sure. Then stick some polish or rubbing compound on them and finish them off. Worst part was taking them to the garage to have tyres put on. The tyre machine at the garage I used stops a couple of mm short of the rim so it doesn't scuff it. But apparently not all do. Ask about this or you'll be watching the machine scrape all of your handy work off the rim.
Hope that's of some use to anyone.
2000 P38 Vogue 4.6 on LPG