Just been out and followed what Richard said.

When clicking the "faults" (the one that looks like a box rather than a button) nothing seemed to happen. No window animation to confirm it had been pressed.

I tried reading the faults again and this time it managed to go through the sequence without losing connection. No faults were returned and the boxes above, F8, F9, FA, FB, FC have a 0 in each of them. (not sure what f8, f9, fa, fb and fc are for)

Disconnected and that's that til the morning when igo on the school run and we'll see what happens.

Incidentally, there's a guy in the next village from me, selling a block and compressor for £60. Says he got it in a box of spares and doesn't know if it's working or not. Worth a punt????????

Another £25 ish each for a rebuild kit for both and you've got a complete spare system for around a ton. Got to be worth having. If they are any good you can stick them on yours and then have another go at doing a rebuild at your leisure.

You're right, clicking the faults box appears to do nothing but if you had faults showing it will have cleared them.

Still puzzled but here's a couple of thoughts.

The compressor is still coming on when it shouldn't. I currently have suspension on motorway height with the inhibit button in. This seems to give the best results for now without too much up and down messing around although it does still do it. Even with the inhibit button in and on motorway mode, the compressor is still coming on. Shouldn't do should it????

Suspension box is hot and compressor is like the sun!! Pulled up to work this morning and suspension had set itself to high and I couldn't get it back down. 2 hours later I went back out, fired the car up and managed to drop it down straight away. Could this be a heat issue and giving it a couple of hours cooled it down enough to bring it back to life??

I didn't have these issues before I rebuilt the block and I'm not a massive believer in coincidence. However, it is a Rangerover!

I've got a compressor rebuild kit here. D'ya reckon it's worth bashing that on and seeing what happens?

The compressor on mine (the old car- can't hear the compressor on new one) runs at random times during normal driving, whatever mode/ inhibit combination I've selected, so unless that system has problems, which it doesn't since I rebuilt compressor a few years ago, your compressor is acting normally.
As long as the thermal cutout hasn't been tampered with the compressor will cut out if the temperature exceeds 120C. That's pretty darn hot, but anything below that must be, by definition, within design parameters.
What happens if, in this unusual hot spell, you run the system with the lid off the box to let trapped heat escape? The heat could be getting to the driver module which could have some iffy joints somewhere.
As an extension of that theory, have you checked all the connectors and their pins/ sockets that you would have disconnected/ reconnected to do the valve block? Make sure none are bent, corroded, missing and that the individual pins are tight in their corresponding sockets..

I've not tried it with the lid off the box but that was on my to-do list.

I checked the wiring connectors this morning and made sure they were all pushed in properly. Nothing unusual stood out.

Just can't understand why this is acting up now after rebuilding the block when it wasn't doing it before.

I swapped a perfectly working block from one car to another for testing purposes and it was fine. Then swapped it back into the original car and it did all sorts of weird things. It had been working perfectly before and on the other car but didn't want to know when put back in it's original home. Gave the big multi plug a squirt of contact cleaner, plugged it back in and it all worked perfectly again. They obviously don't like being disturbed.

i'll try that too.

Interesting that no faults come up though. Either on dash or in software.

I had no faults showing either when I swapped the block back into the SE, it just sat there and did nothing.

Well I'm no expert but I reckon this has seen better days!

https://ibb.co/e0Bfxv
https://ibb.co/gBMVxv

A little past its prime :)

Well past, in fact, I'd go so far as say it's knackered.

Good job I had a compressor kit. Rebuilt and back on. Seems ok so far. Will find out over the weekend when driving it.

Fingers crossed, that was the problem.

Heat shouldn't be an problem. I'm smoking around in ambients of 30 degrees C and high humidity without EAS issues.

How the hell did a rat get in there and chew the ring, never seen one that bad, and I've rebuilt a few in my time. Gonna have a dig around this weekend, I've got a good spare block somewhere ( somewhere being the word) so if your still getting probs let me know

GeorgeB wrote:

Heat shouldn't be an problem. I'm smoking around in ambients of 30 degrees C and high humidity without EAS issues.

If it overheats, the thermal cut out will kick in. 30degress outside is a bit different to 120+ inside a shoe box. If indeed the cause was a worn piston seal, it might have been cooking itself working overtime.

no10chris wrote:

How the hell did a rat get in there and chew the ring, never seen one that bad, and I've rebuilt a few in my time. Gonna have a dig around this weekend, I've got a good spare block somewhere ( somewhere being the word) so if your still getting probs let me know

Thanks. I'm hopeful it's sorted but in the meantime, I bought a block and compressor from a guy in the next village. Dunno if it works though.

Doesn't look like i'm any better off. Mind you, at least I know the compressor is fixed. Looks like it's gonna be block back out. Could the exhaust valve be sticking? It can go down when it chooses too but if the exhaust valve's stuck closed, will it just decide to go up instead? Still no faults on EAS Unlock though.

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

If it overheats, the thermal cut out will kick in. 30degress outside is a bit different to 120+ inside a shoe box. If indeed the cause was a worn piston seal, it might have been cooking itself working overtime.

That's what I was getting at. if you've got excessive heat, you have an issue. The fact that the weather was a bit warm shouldn't affect it.

Hopefully with this info, somebody might have an idea of what's jiggered.

Decided that depressurising using software and re-inflating might be a basic test.

Clicked "depressurise tank" but nothing happened. Got 2 clicks from EAS block and that's all.

Clicked "depressurise springs" but nothing happened. Got a couple of clicks from block.

Tried reading faults. I lost idle but the faults box filled up. I left the faults in the box.

I reinitialised software and cleared faults then clicked "depressurise tank" and it did.

I then clicked "Depressurise Springs" but nothing happened except 2 clicks on block.

Did faults thing again, got them cleared and then springs would depressurise.

Started engine and blew it all back up. I can select all heights and it goes up and down no problem.

Once the pump stops though, the block keeps clicking. Obviously solenoids. Lasts for about 2 minutes. When clicking stops, pump kicks back in. I've swapped Relay 20 but that hasn't changed anything.

If I understand what you say it's 'pst-pst' and a few seconds later again 'pst-pst'. The body lowers a few millimeters until a certain point then the compressor kicks in and the height corrects itself.
That could mean a dead spot in the heightsensor(s), the ecu does not get a complete signal from all four and lowers the body a bit to get a signal it recognises.
You could measure resistance of each sensor over the complete reach, preferrably with an oldfashioned analog meter and see if the needle drops at some point.

Sometimes there's a 'pst-pst' which I know is normal.

This was just 'click-click-click-click'

Got hold of another block this afternoon. At least now I have something to test against.