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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
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Joined: Mar 22 2016
Posts: 1180

Is that before the dogs get, or the missus sees what a mess you’ve made, lol

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 1861

I have blocks!
I can use the nano to write the values, and I can use High to drop to standard, etc but what is the sequence to get the EAS up high enough to get the longest blocks in? Inlet open and then both fronts. Close fronts, close inlet - repeat for rears?
Or should I open the inlet before the valves in the air springs?

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Joined: Mar 22 2016
Posts: 1180

Good question, I most probably would of jacked the car up and put the blocks in, then took a measurement, never thought about using nano or rsw software

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 4339

With a jack, ideally two, one at each end. Jack it up, put the high blocks in, depressurise the system, drop it down so it sits on the blocks, read the heights, write them using the Nano. Jack it up, remove the blocks, fit the standard height ones, drop it down again, read the heights and so on. On my set I drilled and tapped a hole in the top of the access height blocks so I can screw a bolt it to get them out of the bumpstops easily.

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 1861

OK, Jack it is! :(

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Joined: Mar 22 2016
Posts: 1180

Why were on suspension issues, has anyone changed there bump stops, I’ve had a set sitting there for a year plus.
Do they just push on, or bolted?

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 1140

Did mine years ago. They just push on

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 1861

I need a new one front left - it's a bit frilly and doesn't really like holding the rods.

In other news - I've calibrated the High Mode. I didn't bother with the rest because it's clear I definitely need a rear left hight sensor. Whenever you put the car into Wading mode it errors. You can also see the value change in strange ways when you watch on the Nanocom.

On the upside, the blocks are great! All I need now is a jack that will jack the body high enough for me to ge the Wading height blocks in (or figure out how to manually pump the car up high enough using the EAS and Nanocom).

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 4339

I know how you like buying new toys, so here's the next one......

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/ctj3000g-3-tonne-professional-garage-j/

It's one of these that lives in my boot and having just looked at the spec, I now know why it seems heavy when I'm lifting it in and out, it is.

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 1861

Stop it, you bad man :)

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Joined: Feb 25 2020
Posts: 99

Uh, bring this one up from the past to announce my shame. It is not sooo much like to go in the cockup topic (I am saving courage for that one), but puzzling enough.
I've always read about these 'calibration blocks' and the procedure. I have a Nano and know what to read and look for, and I got from a friend that has a good workshop a set of blocks just for the purpose. I copied all the information available on the web, which seems to be consistent.

enter image description here

Now, over time I arrived at new compressor, rebuilt valve block (tested on another vehicle all is fine), new sensors, new bags. Time to calibrate ... I put the beast in level ground, lift up and .... these blocks look way way smaller than the distance between the bump stop "hole" and the pad on the axle where the bump stop rests. I got way more than 145mm at high setting .... what am I doing wrong?

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Joined: Jan 16 2016
Posts: 323

When I have done it in the past, I have only used the 100 front/105 rear blocks.
Just lift it up using diagnostics, put the blocks on the pads, then lower the car onto the blocks.
That will give you readings for all four corners at standard height. Then just save the readings to the ECU.
The car will be dead level and at the correct standard height. That height will be set.
I then measured from the wheel center to the mudguard with a tape measure.
Remove the blocks and raise/lower the car so motorway and off road heights are set accordingly based on the tape reading for that corner.
From memory motorway height is -1" and off road is +2". My Gen III's are +4"

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Joined: Apr 23 2019
Posts: 464

Use the force Leo.... those 100/105 ones are ok. I agree they "look" short, but surprisingly, they do the job. You could do worse than just input these values (set by set, the ECU will not take them all at once), I suggest yoy take photos of all the old settings first. It is a matter of dispute, but these seem to be default values based on one/ two peaople who experienced them showing up magically in EAS settings), and are more or less mid way between the technical min/ max for each setting (verifiable to EAS system docs). Once you have a standard start point then you can try the 100/ 105 at standard and see what your bit count variances are at each corner. It's likely you'll need similar adjustments (pro-rata) at the other heights - but if you have blocks for all and time on your hands then obv. you can calibrate all heights

FrL FrR RrL RrR
High 148 148 129 129
Standard 123 123 109 109
Motorway 107 107 97 97
Access 80 80 75 75