I'm still having the annoying notchy brake pedal groaning and noisy spring type noise most prominent when starting off then seems to semi behave. Sometimes the brake seems rock hard but after applying a bit more force all is well.
I've noticed that if I apply the brake lightly when going down hill there is a definate rhythm to the pedal feel of lifting, it's as though at every full revolution there is this groan / brake pedal judder, it's a kind of ABS vibration through the pedal
The problem only occurs when driving at less than 10 - 15mph
ABS light not showing when being driven above 5mph
The car is 2001 and I assume the problem isn't the plastic washers in brake modulator issue, as I believe this was a pre 99 problem.
Up to now I've only cleaned the ABS relay contacts (with hindsight I can't see what difference that would have made)
I called at a local Indie who has a P38 and he took her for a blast - he suspects the master cylinder ( God bless him he gave her a full Nanocom as a freebie and didn't charge for the zoom around the village)
Where do I start ?
New fluid and Rave flush ?
Wheels off and check slider pins
Check reluctor rings............................aaarrgghh!
Calipers, pads,discs ?
Any help / suggestions ?
For starters you don't have a master cylinder but you do have the brake modulator. I'd start by giving it a full fluid flush, if you've never done it, it may well have never had one. That will be easier if you get the car up in the air on axle stands so that will give you the opportunity to check the calipers and sliders while you are at it. It might also be worth pulling the reservoir off the modulator and making sure it is nice and clean in there too. Very unlikely to be reluctor rings as they would cause an ABS fault.
Thanks for the info, will give it a go.
Out of curiosity does the RAVE brake fluid bleeding performance only apply to an empty system or where fluid has been drained ?
Or can you just keep topping up and pumping if you just want to flush new fluid through - a la ordinary cars ?
Just keep topping up, try to remove as much as you can from the reservoir first.
Don't forget that you've got two separate circuits. One needs the normal pump the pedal to push fluid through while the other one just needs the pedal pressing with the ignition on so the pressure from the pump does the work.
OK will give it a go just flushing as per normal car (I understand the two circuits)
I've read many tales of woe on forums where people have hit problems after doing the full Rave bleed, fingers crossed.
On the bright side I've still got my Sorned Freelander TD4 if things go pear shaped.
Watch this space.
Still not done the RAVE bleed, very curious as to why the problem doesn't occur when braking in reverse and only at less than 15mph when going forward..........hhmmm