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Member
Joined: Jan 16 2016
Posts: 212

I need a bit of advice on replacing wheel bearings.

I have just completed fabricating a 20 tonne hydraulic press and I have used it to press out the inner part of my front hub, the bit with the wheel studs on. It started to shift at around 10 or 12 tonnes I would guess.

The bearing inner ring is made in two halves and one half is still wedged on the shaft. I am planning on putting some heat into it to get it off the shaft, unless someone says otherwise. I tried a puller but I can't get the jaws under it (my puller is half knackered anyway).

The inner ring is hard up against the back of the hub and I can see a thin disk. Is this a separate dust seal that I need to retain or is it just part of the original bearing that can be ditched? I can't tell until I get it off. It had the original Timken bearing fitted, which was a double roller bearing with a nylon cage.

I have also removed the circlip and pressed out the rest of the bearing from the outer hub. It was tight, right at the limit of 20 tonnes I would guess before it made a bang and started to move.

Reassembly? After cleaning up the hub I was going to press the bearing into the outer hub first, by just pressing the outer ring. Then fit a new circlip and press the whole thing onto the hub shaft, pressing on the inner ring only. Any comments appreciated.

I also notice my replacement is a ball bearing marked SAHA.

Member
Joined: Mar 22 2016
Posts: 1112

Personally I’d get a grinder on it, once your so far down it will weaken enough to start moving, your method of assembly is exactly how I’d do it, what make of bearingare you using, Timken is the preferred..

Member
Joined: Jan 16 2016
Posts: 212

Thanks Chris. It is a bit tight getting the cutting blade in there. Also it is easy to make a mistake with an angle grinder but I will have another look tomorrow.
I would prefer to use a gas torch and expand the inner sleeve, obviously without overdoing it. What about there being a dust shield on the outer face of the bearing? I can't tell without taking it off.

I already had some new bearings from wayback, Ebay I think. They are SAHA brand and are double row ball bearings. The bearing I took out was the original and is a Timken. As I said it is a double row roller bearing.

Member
Joined: Sep 13 2016
Posts: 473

the inner sleeve isnt usually all that tight. Never done a P38 one, maybe they're different, but on every other car i've dealt with it usually comes off with a cold chisel.

I would be somewhat wary going to all that effort and using a poor quality bearing. I've had nasty bearings fail within 6 months before, and its REALLY frustrating having to pull everything apart again because you tried to save 20quid.

I would stick to the big brands. SKF, FAG, Timken, NTN and probably a couple others. A google search for Saha bearings doesnt even find a website....

Member
Joined: Jan 16 2016
Posts: 212

I think you're right Aragorn. I will look round for a Timken. I have got spare front and rear hubs that I intend to rebuild once I do the one off the car.

I just want to get it back on the road and will have to use what I have got for the time being. Now I have got all the gear and I have done one it is much easier.

I got the inner sleeve off eventually. Heat didn't shift it and I couldn't get a cold chisel in there. I cut a slot in it using a Dremel with a cutting disk and then slit it with a chisel. Also there isn't a dust shield on the shaft. It was just part of the old bearing come apart.