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Went on holiday for 8 days and sadly didn't account for the battery lasting. So im expecting fun with the EKA, which I have for my VIN, but I have a feeling the BECM may have been changed at some point - not entirely sure mind you.

What's the best way for avoiding angering things when it comes to powering up etc? It was locked by the fob before I left which I think screws me over a bit if I have the wrong code.

Key in ignition in position 2 the best way to go?

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Key in the ignition does NOTHING other than 'friendly sync' the key if the vehicle is disarmed and able to start.

If the vehicle was locked before with the FOB then you will need to enter the EKA code, yes. It will also revert the the last state when power is reconnected... IE locked and alarmed. If you have the key in the ignition, pos II and then reconnect the battery with the doors closed, then you will only end up locking the key in the car in the ignition.

Best thing to do... Keep the key on you, reconnect the battery and then get the EKA entered. On later vehicles (like you have now) you can put the EKA in through the OBD system on the likes of a Nanocom aswell as the normal method of in the drivers door.

What makes you think the BECM has been changed?

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Fingers crossed it hasn't had be my changed, just causes problems,, if you note the becm number surely LR would be able to check if it's the original ?

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Fingers crossed it hasn't had becm changed, just causes problems,, if you note the becm number surely LR would be able to check if it's the original ?

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Sloth <br>
Unlock door with key, disconnect/ charge battery, reconnect battery, leave 30 mins to avoid keycode lockout, sync fob, lock and unlock, reset windows sunroof and radio. <br>
Hopefully that'll do the trick. If it does go into keycode lock out and the BECM has been changed, guess your only option, as Marty's away, is Callrova in Brighton to unlock BECM. Hopefully it won't come to that. <br>
Good luck

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Oh yes, had no intention of leaving the door closed :)

I'm only wondering if it has been changed as I noticed it was unlocked. Not sure if it's because it's a bit of an odd vehicle or it's been played around with. I'll have to hope for the best.

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I think our posts crossed over there!

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If BECM is already unlocked, doesn't that give you access to read/ change EKA code, or is that only with a Faultmate and the correct module? <br> Hopefully Marty will pass by and give an expert answer!

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Answered my own question! From the Nano handbook: <br>
EKA number: This is the Emergency Key Access (EKA) Number for this vehicle. Only available on unlocked BECM's (see BECM STATUS). Even if the EKA function is disabled (see PASSIVE EKA) and therefore not used, each BECM still has a number programmed into it. The number has to be 4 characters long, each character can be a number between 1 and 6, and the four numbers cannot be all the same.

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Hmm, well I'm guessing while its in its lockout mood it won't do much via the nanocom either. Attached battery and its in its 30 minute strop at the moment. Hoping I have the right code and I have new enough becm software to enter via the nanocom. Pretty sure my door latch works but it's still a pain.

One of those hindsight moments looming up I fear... Should have made sure I have the right code.

30 minutes is excessive...

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Might be wrong, but seem to remember when I did the heads on my gems, I had to leave key in ignition , pos 11

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Might be wrong, but seem to remember when I did the heads on my gems, I had to leave key in ignition , pos 11

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Oops, pos 2 for 20 mins,

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Callrova sorted mine in a few days.

In 2009 I got the "R/H front door triggered alarm" message and couldnt start the car. I sent off the BECM in the post and it was back in a few days.
Think it cost me about £80 back then.

Plugged it back in and all was fine. I havent had a problem since even when I disconnect the battery for days.

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Thanks for all the ideas, it's now somewhat sorted.

It was having none of it from the word go. EKA was correct and I was able to enter it via the nanocom. But it just wouldn't start, the Bosch ECU had lost sync and the 'learn security code' option kept giving ECU communication error. In the end I put the code into the BECM the other way and it was appeased.

Now my drivers door lock motor refuses to work, and it doesn't trigger the central locking when using the pillar switch. But the key in the door does trigger the locking and activates the alarm. Need to do some reading on that...

I thought you had door ajar, key switch and locked/unlocked state? Seems to me all three should be working.

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Thanks for all the ideas, it's now somewhat sorted.

It was having none of it from the word go. EKA was correct and I was able to enter it via the nanocom. But it just wouldn't start, the Bosch ECU had lost sync and the 'learn security code' option kept giving ECU communication error. In the end I put the code into the BECM the other way and it was appeased.

Now my drivers door lock motor refuses to work, and it doesn't trigger the central locking when using the pillar switch. But the key in the door does trigger the locking and activates the alarm. Need to do some reading on that...

I thought you had door ajar, key switch and locked/unlocked state? Seems to me all three should be working.

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Might be worth a quick check of the lock motor resistance. +purple -green 4 to 20 ohms according to Marty's table. Maybe the motor's burned out. In turn that being constantly driven might be what flattened your battery.
Or not at all, but it'll give you something to probe anyway on this nice sunny day!

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Indeed, I loath taking the door cards off. Been putting off doing the passenger side (dead motor), so I guess this afternoon I know what I'm doing... Conveniently have a pair of good spares, probably wrong connectors but I can work with that.

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Getting cards off is a breeze it you have a bucket of spare pin clips to hand and use trim pliers something like these: <br>
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Piece-Removal-Pliers-Upholstery-Remover/dp/B00PCATOKA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462712302&sr=8-2&keywords=trim+pliers <br>
Getting drivers latch out is also de-risked by undoing the problem clip after moving the outer handle so you can get at the clip from the outside. <br>
Careful with those door cards though- I know someone who has dibs on your spare ones ;-)

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Took my door cards off real easy to replace my handles and lock surrounds with gold ones.

I just used a fork and broke off one inner prong leaving just the right size gap for the clips to fit in between and lift up, it works with all clips around the car such as the wheel arches etc.