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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
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Joined: Mar 14 2017
Posts: 310

Hello folks,

Got a new one on its way to me. Rave says I need to removed the front bumper, is this really necessary?

Regards,

Smiler.

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Joined: Jul 03 2018
Posts: 23

As far as I know, yes it is. The drier is pretty much right behind it and the left frame rail. I believe there is a pressure sensor or two to disconnect as well.

Member
Joined: Sep 14 2016
Posts: 394

Bumper comes off so easily that the main issue is finding somewhere to put the thing whilst you are busy. I have pulled it of solo but its a ot easier to remove with an assistant.

Be careful with the union nuts as they are verye asily distorted.

Clive

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Joined: Aug 19 2019
Posts: 12

I did not remove my bumper to r&r mine, but it may have made life easier. It wasn't that difficult, but I agree, be careful about twisting off the fittings.

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 3582

I didn't remove my bumper either. In fact, I think the only way my bumper will come off is with an angle grinder as the last time I tried, as I heaved on the bolts I got that familiar, this isn't turning, it's twisting and will shear off if I carry on, feeling. The only slightly awkward part is getting to the bottom bolts but a 3/8 drive socket and extension fits through the lower air vents to get to them.

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Joined: Jan 05 2016
Posts: 941

I can't say I've had a problem removing a bumper before - if the bolts come undone I think its the easiest bumper to remove on any car I've owned or worked on. So long as you don't have a nudge bar, its easy by yourself. Just remember to unplug the fog lights and their vent tubes if you have them!

Member
Joined: Apr 23 2019
Posts: 141

I removed my bumper too. In theory it shd be quick, but like Gilbertd be prepared to abort if the bolts feel like it's shearing or the head strips. The originals are 12 point and road salt may have got the better of them, the heads are recessed, so limited options for removal - drill or use unwin bolt extractors. Replaced with s/s hex bolts.
The wire retainers on the plastic lugs may also have corroded and will probably bend rather than turn. And then the ears on the chassis will v probably need replacing too ie you will probably need/ want to clean up alot before remounting the bumper, unless you know this is all as it should be, in which case removal is just a 15-20 min job.
I'm not sure I cd have replaced the receiver/ drier without removing the bumper, but I suppose if you are familiar with releasing the connectors, and the retaining bolt for the canister is kind to you and you are dextrous with little green o rings you might get away with it. Let us know how it goes

Member
Joined: Mar 14 2017
Posts: 310

Thanks for all of the replies. The thing hasn't turned up yet dissaointingly as I was hoping to fit it tomorrow.

I shall have a look at the bumper bolts and clips. Mine had an A-Bar fitted before my ownership and it still has the A-Bar bolts in place holding the bumper on. I know that when I originaly looked at removing the bumper for another job that they were tight enough for me to not bother and work around it instead.

I'll let you all know how I get on.

Member
Joined: Jan 15 2016
Posts: 370

I did the bumper removal, but then the bolts were good as gold and wound out easy.

With that out of the way, replacing the drier is a doddle.

Oh, and while you're there, give the pressure switch connectors a good clean. I missed that one, and a week later had to grovel under the car to spray contact cleaner into them.

Member
Joined: Mar 14 2017
Posts: 310

Cheers George, I shall bear that in mind. Haven't been on RR for a while, really must catch up. Just been so busy with other things.

I remembered why I didn't remove the bumper when I previously looked. s I said, mine had an A-bar fitted just prior to my ownership (seller removed it to sell seperately). All I appear to have on mine instead of retaining bolts is threaded studs prutruding with steel colars, tubes up against the structure within. I'll try the two nuts locked together technique to see if they'll budge but they look very dry.

What didn't look so dry though was the bottom of the engine. I appear to have gained a coolant leak that seems to be appearing predominantly on the front RH side between the block and the air-con compressor. The whole engine was pretty filthy so I gave it a good blasting with the pressure washer and will have a better look tomorrow after it has dried. There is no discernable play in the water pump so I am suspecting either the thermostat or water pump gasket as leaking down the timing cover and perhaps being blown round the side a bit by the fan.

I suppose that if I do end up stripping it all out to change one of them I could always check/replace the condenser whilst I'm at it...

Member
Joined: Feb 11 2018
Posts: 126

I'd say water pump if you have play.
Piece of piss to change. Remove fan and cowl.Wind 2 bolts in to the provided threaded holes in existing water pump and gently screw them in and they push water pump out. Clean area and lubricate new o-ring with vaseline and insert.

I changed thermostsat a week later but its much easier while pump off etc.