Ah, it's using that instead of the more normal temperature sensor on the reducer.

Once the sensors tell the ECU that conditions are right to change over (reducer temperature and gas pressure), it doesn't just change but it looks for a change in revs. It is usual on a multipoint to set it to change on acceleration as the revs pass a certain point. You want it to switch over at fairly low revs, my SE was set to change over at 2,000 rpm so, in theory, it should have changed over as you accelerated past 2,000 rpm. But if you were driving normally in traffic, it would never reach 2,000 rpm as the gearbox would change up before the revs got that high. I could drive for miles with the ready to change light on the switch flashing and it would only change if I dropped it into neutral and gave it some revs. So, you want it to change over at an rpm setting that you will achieve normally, 1,300 rpm would probably be a good one to try.

That brings me to the next question, where to adapt the rev signal from on a Bosch.
The loom came from a Gems, below a pic of the connectors of the Gems ECM.

From the square black connector (white/purple wire) the rev signal was adapted, wherefrom can I take this signal on a Bosch system?

It's not white/purple, it's white/pink and it's the coil driver signal to one of the ignition coils (cylinders 5 and 8 but you could use any), so the equivalent on the Thor would be pins 2, 6, 7 or 8 on C0638 at the engine ECU. Because you have a wasted spark ignition system, there will be two pulses for every one that is needed but there is a setting for number of coils in the LPG software. You'll need to set that correctly (dual-coil I think) so the software reads the same rpm as your engine is doing.

Thank you Richard, has the Gems also the wasted spark ignition? In that case the LPG controller should already been set that way.

Not that I don't let it be tuned, but in that case I force it to drive on petrol when I go there.

BTW, the manual says 'connect x wire to battery +', doesn't this have to be a 'contact' terminal (key pos. 2)?

My system has a battery +ve feed direct to the LPG ECU, so it is permanently powered, and it goes through an inline fuse.

I don't know if there is a second feed which is ignition switched to wake it up or not though. I've seen a few of them installed like this, so don't know if it is supposed to be a permanent supply, or if it is actually supposed to be switched.

Yes, GEMS runs wasted spark aswell - so the ECU should already be set appropriately.

I will have to have a look on my system to see if the injector rails will fit under the Bananas, so I can run short hosework, or whether I'll trim between the bananas and run up to the top and bolt the injectors on top. Not sure if it gets too warm under the intake for the injectors to live - but then it's pretty warm under the bonnet anyway!

Ferryman - I've got most of the door latch for you assembled - I've just got to fit the microswitches, top plates, and then test it...

Cyl. 5 and 8 in a Thor ignition is in plug C0638 the red wire in position 8.

Presto! Learning every day (mainly how to read the manual).

Yes, GEMS is wasted spark too. The only difference is that the GEMS has 4 double ended ignition coils whereas the Thor has two 4 output ones but if you check each is actually 2 double ended coils in one block.

The system will need a permanent 12V supply and an ignition switched supply but it picks up the ignition switched supply on the Red/White wire that connects to the common switched power on one of the petrol injectors.

Marty your post crossed mine. Thanks for the info, I will connect everything by the manual, maybe the parameter from revs is enough to prevent the gasvalves from opening unintended.

The manual says that when it switches from petrol to gas it uses 4 seconds between opening gasvalves one by one (tank and vaporiser) and shutting off petrolinjectors.

Good to hear about the latches, can't wait to install them!

Regards, Tony.

Good luck with the install - will keep an eye out on your progress!

It's the drivers one I have nearly done - the passenger one may take a little bit longer, but I think you were wanting to do the drivers one first?

Cheers,
Marty

Correct but the passengerside is just as old, plus it does the grounding for the tailgatedoors so will need new switches too.
Let me know when the driversdoor is ready.

Cheers, Tony.

Ferryman wrote:

Correct but the passengerside is just as old, plus it does the grounding for the tailgatedoors so will need new switches too.
Let me know when the driversdoor is ready.

Cheers, Tony.

No problem - I'll get the drivers one finished so it can be sent of first - and then work on the passenger one. If I have all the parts, then I'll work to get both of them ready to send off in one go as it's easier for postage etc.
Cheers,
Marty

Thanks Marty, you're a gentleman.

Update.

Richard I'm going the route you suggested (Morat may have the copyrights) by drilling holes between the banana's.

Four holes, each hole can pass two tubes for the 6mm nozzles, leave the injectorrails on top to keep access when testing/tuning.

The least space is between the inlet 4 and 6 banana's, was a bit tricky when drilling. Now the tubes become 24 cm max, later I always can experiment placing them under the plenum.

I had to wait for the new gaskets and seals to deliver, meanwhile I have traced, tested, labeled and soldered the wires of the 50 pin multiplug, tomorrow (when no rain) I will solder the wires to the petrol injectorplugs. At Vogels they don't answer the phone (tried twice) to order the coolant tempsensor, it is holidaytime over there so they may be closed.
I will install everything without it, at least I have the rev wire found and connected.

As I said earlier I'm doing it step by step in my (retired) tempo.

Tony.

Looks like you are doing a very neat job of it Tony but that hoses looks to be very thick? Much thicker than the hose from the injectors on most systems. I'll measure the outside diameter of the hoses on my SE and see what they are.

I was also going to say that they look thick aswell...

On mine I originally used 6mm ID hose from the injectors to the nozzles on the inlet manifold, and I occasionally had a whiff of gas from under there. I replaced with 5mm ID hose, which is a bit thinner aswell, but more importantly creates a tighter seal on all the unions so less likely to get any minor gas leaks.

Looking good though! Hopefully your door locks will be there soon so you can have something else to work on aswell :)

Definitely might look at modifying my other plenum and redoing my injector hoses again too...

The hoses are a bit thick indeed but very flexible. Inside is 6mm (obvious) and outside dia is 12,5mm. The hoses must be certified and consist of two walls with a woven layer in between, that is why they don't stretch, 6mm is 6mm. On first install they may not be older than 2 years. It's all there is on the market and have to deal with it.

OK! well that looks like some very high quality pipe. If it fits, then great :)
btw, I don't hold any copyright on the "Drilled Banana Method" - I just paid the guy who worked it out to fit my LPG.
If I attempted to fit LPG myself you'd all hear about it on the evening news!

Update.

Did the soldering which was a great challenge for me since I can't hold my hands still anymore (when needed) from a burnout a few years ago. Showing this pic because these two spots (injectorplugs 7 and 8) I used tape instead of shrinktube. These plugs have a 3rd wire to add, I did not want to cut it to join.

Resulting in two looms going to the LPG ecu, bank 1 and bank 2

Did the rest of the plumbing, T pieces in heaterhoses, found the rev wire and O2 sensor wires in the ECM and placed the LPG injectors.

Connected the LPG injectorplugs

Initial start up was ok but after 10 seconds returned to petrol, never mind, had to go to Vogels anyway.
Did that today and they placed the missing coolingtemp sensor, connected the screen and PRESTO running on LPG!

They adjusted and tested the lot and she runs sweet. There was a testofficer around, he had 3 comments that I have to improve, the strips that hold the tank in the sparewheelbin must be 40mm wide and 4mm thick, mine are 25mm x 4mm plus I must secure the gasfeed to front on two more places. Next week my following appointment to show results and get the G3 install on the car's documents.

Thanks for all your input that helped me finish this first time job!

Tony.

Nice one Tony! A neat installation at a bargain price and your second-hand parts all worked. I foresee the tweaking of maps in your future as I bet you can't resist the temptation! <br>
Congratulations