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Member
Joined: Aug 06 2019
Posts: 73

Hi, I am looking for a bit of advice about the front passenger window not opening.

I had this problem a couple of months ago, but it was intermittent, the window would go all the way down and not return, perhaps for 12 hours, but then a press on the window switch and the window raised back up as normal.

I bought a working switch pack back in November and replaced the existing one in the vehicle, and everything worked as normal. But today the window wouldn't lower. I couldn't hear anything clicking, or grinding, or making any noise at all. All of the other windows are working normally, and the mirror control is OK.

Is this likely to be the switch pack again ? I would find the coincidence a bit strange as it is the front passenger window again. Before I replaced the switch pack all the other windows worked fine, as well.

Is this likely to be the window motor packing up ? It just seems odd that the problem only affects the front passenger window, and not any of the others.

If I need to replace the motor can it be done with the lift mechanism left in place, or does the whole mechanism need to be removed from the door ?

Any advice would be gratefully received.

Pierre3.

Member
Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 1175

If you can't hear any clicking in the door when you press the switch, then chances are it's the switchpack again I'm afraid.

A lot of the ones I refurbish seem to have the front/left as being the first one that goes intermittent - who knows why!

The front windows are driven from the outstations in the doors, and have a power feed which does most things and then a second one which is just going through the relay to the window motor (as it draws a load more current).

If you are getting a click in the door from the relay when the buttons are pressed, then the switchpack is fine. If you only get a relay click when the switch is pressed in one direction, but not the other (or not at all) then chances are it's the switchpack that is the problem.

I do sell refurbished ones on exchange for the faulty one on my website, and see the switches failing more and more as they get older. I actually replace the metal dome switches with new ones and clean up the PCB pads they contact on all the ones I work on.

If you do get the relay clicking in the outstation, then let me know and I'll dig into the ETM and get some wire colours/locations/fuse details for you to check out to narrow down where the fault it.

Hope this helps.

Marty

Member
Joined: Aug 06 2019
Posts: 73

Hi Marty, thanks for your help. I think that I may go for one of your rebuilt switch packs. My original switch pack is very tidy so maybe I will go through your website and do an exchange.

Thanks again.

Pierre3.

Member
Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 1175

No problem - I have a number of them available and they are easy to switch over - a couple of screws to loosed the trim, disconnect the connector and remove the handbrake gaitor, and then a bunch of Torx head screws (T10 or 15 from memory) to remove the switchpack unit itself from the trim.

Though if you've replaced it before, then you know all that :) The actual switchpack unit is pretty much the same across all the model years - and between LHD/RHD - it's just the bit of trim it's bolted to that changes depending on year/specification.

Cheers,
Marty