rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
Member
Joined: Dec 22 2018
Posts: 45

I've owned my trusty diesel for many years, 125k on the clock, full history etc etc Its never been a great starter and I always have to wait the full cycle for the glow plugs before even attempting to start, I always thought this was just the way they are. I've got a hot start kit, replaced the glow plugs every few years, had the injectors reconditioned etc. Anyway went to look at a £400 spares or repair high mileage abused wreck with well over 200k on clock, and overheating problem. Anyway it stated like a dream every time, no need for glow plug light to go out it just started and even sounded better than mine. Why's this wreck starting so much better than mine? What would you guys suggest I replaced first?

Member
Joined: Feb 11 2018
Posts: 357

Airtight system for starters.
No air bubbles in the clear pipe after the fuel filter.
Leak off pipes not leaking, they should be 3.2mm not 3.7 like most sell.
Return pipe from fip not leaking.
In tank pump working.

The plastic connections on the fuel heater/filter head can leak allowing air in. O rings normally. They go brittle so be gentle.

I have a non return valve in the line between filter and fip.

Member
Joined: Jan 16 2016
Posts: 375

All the things that tanis8472 mentioned plus get rid of the hot start device.

Then advance the FIP timing to bring it back within spec.
The timing chain stretches with time causing the the fuel injection timing to become more and more retarded. Bit like me.
It is just a single chain. It would have been better if it was designed with a duplex chain, imho.
The method in Rave requires a few special tools and a dial gauge. It is quite involved.
A non official method is to slacken and slightly rotate the FIP so the timing is advanced to compensate.

Member
Joined: May 09 2016
Posts: 15

+1 on Dave3d.

Member
Joined: Feb 11 2018
Posts: 357

A little more info would help as I would also like to get rid of hot start if possible

Member
Joined: Dec 03 2019
Posts: 33

... me too; mine starts reliably but always wants about 7 or 8 secs after the preheat lamp goes out. I was aware that timing was an issue but it didn't occur to me that it could be as simple as tweaking the pump position,... has anyone tried that and got a feel for what scale/degree of movement brings results I wonder?

Member
Joined: Jan 16 2016
Posts: 375

I have not needed to do it on mine as yet. It has done 163k and starts fine (or would do when I charge up my battery).
I have been meticulous about oil changes so I guess the chain has not worn too much.

The method is trial and error. First of all mark the position of the FIP relative to the surrounding casting with a felt tip pen. This gives a starting point.
Then with the engine off, slacken the bolts in the FIP and rotate the FIP towards the engine. From the front of the car this would be anticlockwise.
Try 2mm to start with. Bolt the FIP up tight and try starting it. Then try 4mm and see if it is any better.

As I said, I have not needed to do it but I know what to do.
There are some practical issues like the best way to force the FIP to move when the fuel injection pipes are solidly bolted to it. I think Kapila has done it so he may chip in. I think most people have reported that 4mm works best for them but do it in 2mm steps.

It can also be done live with the engine running using a nanocom or a faultmate. Same method to rotate the FIP but you can see the engine fuel injection timing live on the screen.

Member
Joined: Dec 03 2019
Posts: 33

Thanks Dave, that's a great starter for ten :)

Member
Joined: Feb 11 2018
Posts: 357

Thanks dave