Hi all -
In the past I've mentioned planning the rebuild of a spare engine of mine off my parts vehicle and swapping that into my daily driver. Unfortunately I don't have as much time as initially thought so I've settled for only rebuilding from the cam "up". The main items to be replaced are the cam, lifters, and pushrods as well as the oil pump gears, timing chain, and the water pump. My parts vehicle cylinder heads are right now at the machinist.
The daily driver engine gives off a sharp smell (I wouldn't call it sweet), drips from the exhaust pipes, and has a noticeable leak near cylinder 2.
What all should a machinist specifically do to these heads? Like, what should I tell the machinist to not miss doing.
I had the rocker assemblies with me at the the time I was dropping off the heads. He looked them over and said the wear points on the rockers (the pushrod cup and the point where the rocker touches the valve) looked great and could be reused as is. My pushrods got mixed up and since they're cheap I threw them away. As mentioned the lifters are getting replaced, so if the lifters and the pushrods aren't mated to the rocker (by common wear points) is it true the rockers can be reused? He'll also test the springs but again said it's not a common LR failure point and they could be reused. Frankly he gave the impression that short of failure every bolt, washer, and spring could be reused and not to spend money unnecessarily. His opinion was that it was a very low drama engine, but I'm not taking advice from my housekeeper on how to rebuild my house so to speak. The guy is well regarded, knew the engine well, and seemed knowledgeable in person but I have no direct experience with him.
The rockers need to be shimmed?
The plan is to tear down the rocker assemblies, clean everything with an ultrasonic cleaner, and reassemble them. Is this wise and necessary or am I just making work for myself? If I do that how do you get the rockers back in exactly the same place? I figured on lightly scoring the shaft where each rocker should go. The engine has had an intermittent tick since I bought it so figured best to get all those oil passages as clean as possible. If the tick is caused by a slipped sleeve so be it, but usually it happens when I'm low on oil.
How much extra work would it be to do the rings and rehone the cylinder walls with a drill attachment? Youtube videos make it look straightforward.
I planned to stick with OEM cylinder head bolts. They're cheap and they've done the job thus far just fine.
Last question (for now!): Please advise which camshaft brand to go with: $57.09 from 'Original Equipment' sounds like Britpart.