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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Having moved on from the air bag issue the EAS ECU is not communicating with the Nano. When the car arrived it had been part reconverted from springs. The ECU was loose under the seat, the delay timer was detached and the Blue/Pink and Blue/White wires had been cut.

The ECU is refixed and contacts given a clean and Delay timer reconnected and the wires soldered up. I've checked fuse 24 and 44 and they are fine so would be grateful for any pointers on where to head next. I have tested with all doors closed.

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The nanocom connects by firing a signal to the delay relay to kick into the EAS computer (somehow, no idea how all that works but that's needed it seems to let it get into the ECU). When mine was intermittent it was down to the connection from the under-dash port to the relay-pin slot. Taking it apart it was the actual OBD/similar to OBD socket itself - inside it was green and falling apart. I've put a new one in (on a lead and soldered the wires for now, old socket is still in place but not connected). The cheap e-bay socket had an incorrect wiring diagram, but having tested and decyphered it, if it is that that's wrong there are not that many pins in use, it isn't too bad to swap them. Of two cars, I haven't had ecu connector problems but both have had OBD connector problems.

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Thanks Sam, top advice. The relay pin slot was the culprit and although it didn't look too bad a good clean sorted it out.
Thanks again.

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Excellent! Mine's held up OK so far since replacing the OBD connector (it's clearly been wet for a while at some point under the glovebox).

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Is the eas switch lighting up ?

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Yes, all lights flashing. I can get the pump running and the Nano is showing the stored heights. As It has been disabled for so long do I need to go through the setup rods routine?

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If all lights are flashing, it is in hard fault. Read the faults then clear them and it should start to work.

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The Nano is showing most ride height sensors out of range. Would that be because it is on the bump stops?

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Shouldn't be, what are the actual readings? If around 30-40, it should be fine if you clear the faults. If you've got odd readings, or the faults come back immediately, it might be an idea to lift it slightly on a jack to get it off the bumpstops. Some people have had the same fault after changing airsprings when the car is sitting on it's bum.

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Each ride height has a window of valid values - if you're outside that range you'll end up with a fault, and if you try and change too many settings in one session/ by too much it may also throw a wobbly. I dont think you need waste time calibrating just yet - just make sure the values are all in range and you've cleared the faults

Mine has gone in to lockdown (sic) a few times when I made too many changes, and I had to change them all back before the lights stopped flashing, and it then let me make the same changes one height at a time. Take photos of the settings at each height as you go in case you have to back up, or you will drive yourself bananas trying to remember what you did/ didn't change

enter image description here

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Many thanks Richard and Rob for all the info.

A new day and a freshly chrged battery and I will see what happens!

Good luck with the switch pack Rob.

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Fell at the first hurdle with air hissing out of the dryer. A split O ring. New one - hopefully the right size on order from Simply Bearings. They have been great with supply of bits and really fast turn round.

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The car has turned into Hissing Sid! New seal sorted the air dryer leak .
As it had been partially reconverted from coils I had to find new pipework. All the pipe work was secondhand from a chap in Latvia who seemed to be the only one able to supply any pipework.
Found two leaks in the least convenient place obvs, over the chassis and next to the exhaust silencer. One going to the reservoir and the other going to R rear. I ordered one coupling which sorted the reservoir leak.
Have now ordered two more connectors as there will probably be another leak somewhere..
The front rose up magnificently but the L rear remained resolutely stuck down although the air bag felt quite taut. Will have another play around with it when the parts arrive.

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All the leaks sorted now and having a play with the Nanocom.

Taking just one set of data on Standard Height I have these readings:-

         Stored                             Current         Measured from arch

Front L     129                                  71                      475mm
Front R     117                                 120                      460mm
Rear L      117                                 108                      460mm
Rear R      110                                   6                      440mm

Going to target heights it will show levelling but nothing happens and then goes dormant.

I'm missing something but not sure what.

It is on a level surface.

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Sorry those figures got jumbled relative to the heading somehow.

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I took the liberty of editing it so it all lines up. If you start a line with four spaces it shows in a monospaced (typewriter) font making it easier to do stuff like that.

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Thank you Gordon. That looks a lot more legible.

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The Nanocom is now refusing to speak to the EAS and just freezes. All the other functions work and I have read elsewhere that this can happen. I have an EASUnlock cable I purchased a couple of years back so I will give that a try.

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It might be worth a good squirt of contact cleaner into the obd socket if your still having problems. I gather that EAS uses different pins to most of the other systems so you can find it can just be bad contact in the socket.

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Thanks Brian. I have given all the contacts a good shot of contact cleaner. I've taken the kick panel off and released the OBD so that I'm sure of a decent connection.