rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Member
Joined:
Posts: 285

Tried the Nanocm again but no joy.

Having found the right driver for the dragon diagnostics cable and adapter for EASUnlock I can get it to connect on com port 3.

It starts to intialize but on the rx buffer just get rolling reports of 80 and 26. Looking at the troubleshooting guide it refers to 80 and 28 as failures to sync. Followed the resync process a few times with the same result.

I am reluctant to admit defeat but I think I need professional help on this now unless anyone has any other suggestions.

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 5817

I don't think you will be able to find anyone that can do any more than you. If Nanocom won't connect and EASUnlock won't connect, nothing else is likely to. Check for continuity between pin 11 on the OBD socket (White/Light Green wire) and pin 35 at the EAS ECU, then check continuity between pin 12 at the socket (White/Pink wire) and pin 17 at the EAS ECU. Both these wires go via the C104/204 connection (12 way) behind the LH footwell trim panel. Also check you have 12V on pin 16 at the OBD socket (probably OK as you can connect to other systems) and a ground on both pins 4 and 5. The ground on pin 5 also goes via C102/202 connection (18 way) behind the RH footwell kick panel.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 285

Thanks Richard. I'll get the meter out.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 285

Progress!

Ran the checks that Richard suggested and they were ok but thought I should look for the c102/202 connection as I hadn't seen it when I had the dash out. Looked and looked and finally spotted it at the back of another connector tucked away in the L hand corner.

This may have something to do with the problem.

enter image description here

enter image description here

Next question. As one of the contacts has virtually disappeared what is the best way of reconnecting this lot?

Member
Joined:
Posts: 559

A-ha ! Rather fiddly but you can swap out individual pins/sockets if there are any 'spare' ones available (?)
Less fiddly is just to bridge out those corroded pins with permanent wires (?)

Member
Joined:
Posts: 285

Thanks Dave, as it's all a bit gnarly I think I'll put a new plug and socket on. Molex seem to do some and would only need a 12 way.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 559

Indeed David: Molex would give an even better and also permanent solution (and also waterproof ?) !

You are obviously handy with a camera too: If you get the chance please pop up a photo of the location
of this particular connector as I expect many of us with have this same issue too but don't know it yet !?

Member
Joined:
Posts: 285

The offending item lives behind the LH lower A post trim.
The second picture shows the metal bracket immediately below the glove box.
You can just see the lower fixings for the glove box, which are a subject for "why land rover why" in that there are two loose square nuts that fit in a channel and can only be reached with one finger while you try and hold the glove box in place!
Fortunately the glove box doesn't need to be touched ,just the lower kick panel.
As you crane your neck round the back of the bracket there are two connectors clipped to the frame. The one with the 18 way connector is the villain.

The first picture shows the cover turned round for clarity. and upside down.

enter image description here

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 5817

As even you has no intention of removing the body, that is the only time those connectors need to be unplugged. They are there so the loom can simply be plugged together when they are assembling the car. Just chop the wires off one at a time an solder and heatshrink them. Worth doing on both if those multiway connectors, LH and RH.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 559

David: Thanks for the photo/ID/ of the villain in question; Will check mine too next time I am poking around in that area !

Richard: A few times (albeit when riding on the bumpstops) I have the distinct feeling my body wants to remove itself (!)
Any idea where the water gets in to those connectors though: Is it via the famous Pollen Filters ??

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 5817

Yup, gets in at the pollen filters and runs down inside, drowning the connectors on it's way. That LH connector carries the connections between the EAS ECU and the dash rocker and lights. When I first got the Ascot and started running around in it I could go over a bump, dash would beep and flash up EAS Fault then clear. Couldn't work it out until I noticed the height display would go out at the same time as the beeps then come back on again. Chopped that connector, and the RH one too, soldered the wires through and no more problems.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 285

Success!!

Wires duly soldered as per instructions. Knees gradually recovering.

Both Nanocom and the EASUnlock are chatting away to the EAS ECM. Not in a language I understand yet so that's the next stage.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 285

Playing with the RSW software and getting these results on high setting.

enter image description here

enter image description here

The rear right sensor is showing as signal incorrect which seems reasonable as it is stuck on 7

I've put a meter on the sensor and it does show a change in resistance but varies quite a bit. Is it worth getting a secondhand one or just go for new?

Do the saved values look reasonable?

Thanks.

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 5817

Was it sitting level when you got those readings? A difference between 108 and 144 from side to side is far too great. Stored values look a bit odd too, you need to make yourself a set of blocks and do it properly.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 285

Yes, sitting on the ramp. They were taken with just the ignition on 2 and not started. I'll find the broom handle. What do you think of the right rear reading? I might try swopping right to left.

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 5817

Try swapping them as it will at least move the operating point to a different part of the track. You may find that you then get errors with it on High instead.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 285

Thanks Richard.

Would Acetal work instead of Nylon? Seems more available around here.

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 5817

Acetal, Delrin, Nylon, wood, whatever you have handy or can get hold of easily enough. As long as it is strong enough that it won't be crushed by the weight of the car. With the Access height ones I found that they almost completely disappeared inside the bumpstops making getting them out again difficult. So I drilled and tapped an M6 thread in one end so I can screw a bolt in to pull them out with. Also marked big arrows so I always put them in the correct way up (so the threaded hole was visible).

Member
Joined:
Posts: 285

Thanks Richard.

i'll have search tomorrow.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 285

Swopped the two rear height sensors and still got 6/7 showing on the right rear height. It will move up and down but the reading doesn't change.