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I’ve had a latch assy on order from Rimmer Bros for a few months now (on back order) due to an intermittent RF Door Unlatched warning. Today it quit locking or unlocking with the fob, and the tailgate doesn’t open. I know I need a latch, but is there a temporary work around? I’ve ordered a FQJ103240 which should be correct for my VIN and LH drive. Maybe there’s a better source for this latch?

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All suppliers are showing it as subject to suppliers stock, which would be Land Rover. Unfortunately LR themselves are showing it as out of stock (https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/fqj103240-latch-assembly-front-door.html). Tailgate locking is supplied by a ground from the RH front door latch so if that door is unlocked the tailgate is too. I don't see why you couldn't fit a RH RHD latch though.

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Thanks Richard. I may need to give that a try.

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RHD drivers side latch has 3 microswitches, as does the passenger side although only 2 of them are used, so you'll probably get one microswitch more than you need. You don't have a key lock on the RH side so the keyswitch won't be required.

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To allow the tailgate to open, you need to ground the Green/Red wire from the RH front latch, either at the latch or at the connector behind the RH rear panel in the boot.

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Thanks a lot Richard. I just took it all apart, cleaned it and put it together. It still doesn’t work with the fob, but I realized that with it manually unlocked, the tailgate works, so it should get me by until I can get a new latch mechanism.

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I got my RHD RH Front door latch actuator and it does indeed fit, however the CDL actuator (motor) still doesn’t work. With the door manually unlocked my tailgate works. All the other doors work. I tried another door outstation from a parts car I had, but it’s the same.
I surmised that if I put power across pins 1&4 at the plug of the new actuator, the CDL motor would move, supposedly power one way to lock and the other way to unlock, but it doesn’t do anything when I do that. My understanding of how the motor works must be incorrect.
A broken wire in the bellows between the door and the body would be my next suspicion, but I tried manipulating that area and I would have suspected it to at least work intermittently when doing that.
Any other ideas?

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Two latches both with a dead central locking motor would be one hell of a coincidence. Are you sure you are counting the pins correctly? Pins 1 and 4 would be the ones that connect to an Orange/Black and Pink/Black in the loom. As you say, power one way round should lock it and power the other way round should unlock it.

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Yes, thanks Richard, orange/black and pink/black on the door loom side. I agree, two dead motors would be too much of a coincidence. I need to keep digging.

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I've got a latch with a duff keyswitch here, I'll try bunging power onto the two wires in the morning and see what happens.

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Thanks

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Ok to finally close out this thread (this issue hasn’t made it back to the top of my priority list until now). I robbed a CDL actuator motor (power door lock motor) from a rear door latch that I had from a parts vehicle and installed it in my original LHD RH front door latch and it all works properly now. So either the new RHD RH latch CDL motor was also U/S or it isn’t compatible with LHD.

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You can buy used parts e.g. rear door lock and put that motor in the front door lock. The microswitches are also compatible. Done it on mine.
The motor seizes up from use.

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This is a very useful thread. I wondered, a few months ago, whether the front door handles could be swapped around. I was interested, at the time, about whether you could fit the mechanics of the passenger side door handle into a drivers' side door handle. My drivers' side handle did the usual thing and stopped being pulled back into the door when the door was opened, and the passenger side door handle is freely available.

It looked like I may not have been able to get a new drivers' side handle from LR as they were listed as NLA and I wanted to keep the patina on the handles all the same, so I started looking to see whether by removing the spring mechanism in the back of the handle I could fit a new mechanism from the passenger side door.

However, I never did find out because [a] I ended up getting a complete new handle, keyed for my car, from Classic LR Jaguar, and [b] unfortunately no-one seemed to have tried it ! I really needed some spare handles to strip and rebuild but I wasn't going to buy a couple just to mess about with. In retrospect maybe I should have done.

Pierre3.

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This thread refers to the door latches not the handles but you don't need new handles at all. This thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/360-stiff-door-handles-solved-and-painless details how to rebuild the door handles with new internals so they no longer stick, STC3064 is the kit for the RH handles while STC3063 is for the LH handle. About a fiver each......

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Thanks, Richard. I had to look up the different parts of the door handle and latch, and I see your point. The door latch appears to be a completely separate and self contained unit. I think that I was looking at it from the point of view of it being similar to the door handle and latch on something like a Ford Cortina, where the latch is mechanically operated by the lifting of the door handle directly.

The handles and latches on the P38 are much more "sophisticated" in comparison. I fitted new handles to my car, and a new inside pull handle cable, when the end snapped off, but I had a new latch fitted by a RR guy when the micro switches stopped working, last year. I got locked out by the BeCM, and had to get towed to a well-known RR garage to get going again.

Pierre3.