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This is a weird one.

Just switched the valve block in Sooz' car. We also refurbed the air dryer to get rid of the powder and cleaned the pipes.

Her compressor had died so we reconditioned and refitted it But it wouldn't run even when we used a jumper in the relay. We swapped in the compressor from my car and that worked fine. BUT... it never stops running, the system won't pressurise. It won't even rise from the bump stops to Access.

Since the new valve block is from eBay with an X8R kit fitted it's an unknown quantity.

We've made the classic error of changing so many things in one go we have no idea where the point of failure is. Have a Nanocom but no clue what to look for.

I've sprayed everything except the bottom air dryer collet with leak detector. Nothing. Can't feel any air leak by hand.

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Is the air from the compressor coming straight out of the exhaust port? If it is, it's the diaphragm valve leaking. Check that some air has gone into the reservoir by pulling the pipe to that one (the single one nearest the front of the car with a purple sleeve on it). Lift a solenoid coil at a time and squirt leak detect spray on the top of the visible valves to check for leakage there. You may also have bad connections in the connector between the driver pack and solenoids. I was given a valve block that had been fitted with a new kit but the O rings looked near new and the PO of the car had spent a fortune on EAS work, including a valve block rebuild. Turned out that whoever had done it previously had got the solenoid coils mixed up so it was trying to open the wrong valves. Could be that the eBay valve block has been taken apart before being sold by someone that didn't know what they were doing.

None of this explains why the compressor doesn't run though. Normal problem is an open circuit thermal switch so it won't run when commanded to by the ECU but will if you jumper the relay.

If you go into the EAS menu on the Nanocom, select Inputs and scroll across until you get to the screen that shows valve status. It will be showing front closed and rear open (as it always raises the rear first), next screens will show compressor On or Off, pressure switch status (should be Open) and Inlet valve should be Open too. Anything other than that and something very weird is happening.

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Does the dead compressor run if you put power to the green wire and ground to the black?

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Will check solenoids for leaks and placement as recommended.

To clarify the pump issues.

The one we refurbished (Pump 1) won't run at all. Orange and black show continuity so thermal cutout not an issue. Signal Pin in relay socket was getting 14.3 volts. Jumping the Fuse and Load pins did nothing until we put my good one (Pump 2) in... that ran when jumped and when we reinstated the relay. We concluded the motor in Pump 1 has burnt out.

Pump 2 just runs and runs. About 50 degrees centigrade.

Valve States as seen by Nanocom were as you describe on our final attempt. Inlet was shut but SEND TO ACCESS fixed that.

I have one of those piggy back override kits with Schrader valves arriving Friday. That should give easier pressure readings from under the bonnet.

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I will test Pump 1 with a 12v supply as suggested.

How did you figure out the solenoids were in the wrong holes?

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From the diagram on page 23 of this document https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PK5oMkoJ89oDyhTkzcw9dbcL3ObFBVfQ/view?usp=sharing

We realised something was wrong with it when the compressor had been running for a good 10 minutes, the car still hadn't done anything but on switching it off, the familiar tick, tick, tick came from the valve block as it should have been self levelling and dropping 3 corners to match the lowest one but one corner rose instead. At that point I fitted a spare, known good, valve block and I took the suspect one away to check later. After much head scratching I realised someone had been juggling with the solenoid coils and all bar two were in the wrong place. Even the two on the bottom were reversed!